I have a concern about my Mast rigging being to loose. I'm told that I need the "tunning specs". Can anyone direct me where to obtain these spec's? I'm somewhat new to this site.
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Check the archives or,,,
I've written several articles over the past couple of years describing how to tune your rig. You'll also need a pair of vicegrips to grip the rigging fittings and something to tighten the turnbuckles (I use a thin cheap screwdriver). A Loos gauge (to measure the load in each shroud or stay) is helpful but not mandatory. Here are several basic things to remember: 1) The mast must be straight from side to side (use the main halyard to measure to the same point on either side of the boat). 2) make sure the forestay is tightened enough to keep the mast rake reasonable. This is not super critical right now. 3) tighten the upper shrouds until the leeward shroud stays taut when sailing closehauled under jib and full main in 12 to 15 kts of wind. You have to check this on both starboard and port tack to keep the mast straight. This is probably the most important thing of all. If you need more help, ask around on "D" Dock at Monroe Harbour or swing by the Fun Maritime Academy. Good luck. Peter H23 "Raven"
I've written several articles over the past couple of years describing how to tune your rig. You'll also need a pair of vicegrips to grip the rigging fittings and something to tighten the turnbuckles (I use a thin cheap screwdriver). A Loos gauge (to measure the load in each shroud or stay) is helpful but not mandatory. Here are several basic things to remember: 1) The mast must be straight from side to side (use the main halyard to measure to the same point on either side of the boat). 2) make sure the forestay is tightened enough to keep the mast rake reasonable. This is not super critical right now. 3) tighten the upper shrouds until the leeward shroud stays taut when sailing closehauled under jib and full main in 12 to 15 kts of wind. You have to check this on both starboard and port tack to keep the mast straight. This is probably the most important thing of all. If you need more help, ask around on "D" Dock at Monroe Harbour or swing by the Fun Maritime Academy. Good luck. Peter H23 "Raven"
Get a Loos gauge
The Loos gauge isn't an expensive tool and it is pretty handy. I've tuned my own rig a couple of times a season for a few years now, and helped others tune their rigs. The gauge comes with instructions and the guidelines posted in the archives are easy to follow.
The Loos gauge isn't an expensive tool and it is pretty handy. I've tuned my own rig a couple of times a season for a few years now, and helped others tune their rigs. The gauge comes with instructions and the guidelines posted in the archives are easy to follow.
What gauge is your rigging?
Your lower shrouds should be tightened to 10% of the breaking strentgh of your wires and the upper ones should be tightened to 13%. You will need the appropiate size Loos gauge tool to measure the tension. The breaking strenghts are the following; Size Breaking Strenght 1/8 1,872 pounds 5/32 2,954 " 3/16 4,316 " 7/32 5,736 " 1/4 7,481 " For example if your wires are 1/8 the tension shoul be 180 pounds on the lowers and 240 for the uppers. Make sure the mast is straight
Your lower shrouds should be tightened to 10% of the breaking strentgh of your wires and the upper ones should be tightened to 13%. You will need the appropiate size Loos gauge tool to measure the tension. The breaking strenghts are the following; Size Breaking Strenght 1/8 1,872 pounds 5/32 2,954 " 3/16 4,316 " 7/32 5,736 " 1/4 7,481 " For example if your wires are 1/8 the tension shoul be 180 pounds on the lowers and 240 for the uppers. Make sure the mast is straight
Why I don't recommend tuning a rig by the numbers
Let me start by saying that I'm not criticizing people who buy a Loos tension gauge, obtain wire breaking strength based on the diameter, then tune their rigs based on percentages therof. For the record, I own a Loos gauge and I do use it (more on this later). However, here are a few things about tuning rigs that I've learned over the years: Unless you're racing in a one-design fleet, every boat is different: rigs differ, sails differ, running rigging hardware differs, boats differ in weight and trim and hull condition, sea and wind conditions vary and every skipper sails his or her boat differently based on their own level of comfort and that of the crew. As a result, my feeling is that setting up a rig by the numbers, i.e., a preset percentage of shroud wire breaking strength, is somewhat arbitrary. It may work for one boat but not necessarily for any other. While I think it's a good starting point, rig tuning by the numbers can create a false sense of security because there's no mention of looking at the shrouds while under sail to see how they actually respond to the loads on the rig. Nor is there any mention of what to do if one does happen to notice that the leeward shrouds are still slack. However, here's a basic universal truth. EVERY leeward shroud on EVERY boat will go slack when sailing closehauled under full sail in about 15 kts of wind unless properly tensioned. This shouldn't happen, as it is a clear sign that the mast is moving from one side to the other as the boat comes about. This can lead to shock loads in the shrouds and ultimately to a dismasting. Shock loads can be much higher than the steady ("static") loading in the shrouds. That's why I recommend tensioning the uppers until the leeward shrouds don't go slack, because it achieves the desired result in a rational, systematic manner no matter what rig, sails or boat you may have. Assuming the mast was true from side to side, all you have to do if you notice some slack in the leeward shroud is to stop the boat and tighten the turnbuckles on BOTH sides by the same amount, usually half a turn. Then resume sailing. If the problem persists, stop and add another half a turn. Repeat as needed until the problem is solved. THEN use the Loos gauge to measure the shroud tensions on BOTH sides (they should be even) and write them down for future reference. If you ever unstep the mast you'll know exactly how much load to dial in next time (I used to put nail polish on the turnbuckles before unscrewing them but I got tired of the funny looks from people on the docks whenever I pulled a bottle of bright red Max Factor out of my pocket). In case you're wondering about the "closehauled under full sail in 15 kt of wind..." That's a rough guide (it could be anywhere from 12 kt to 20 kt depending on your boat and level of comfort). In winds above 15 kt, most small boat sailors reef the mainsail, which reduces the load on the rig. Again, I'm not trying to bust anybody's chops here. I just tend not to follow a procedure unless I can also understand why I'm doing it. That way I can revise the procedure (or even abandon it) if it's not achieving the desired result. I wouldn't offer less to anyone else. Peter H23 "Raven"
Let me start by saying that I'm not criticizing people who buy a Loos tension gauge, obtain wire breaking strength based on the diameter, then tune their rigs based on percentages therof. For the record, I own a Loos gauge and I do use it (more on this later). However, here are a few things about tuning rigs that I've learned over the years: Unless you're racing in a one-design fleet, every boat is different: rigs differ, sails differ, running rigging hardware differs, boats differ in weight and trim and hull condition, sea and wind conditions vary and every skipper sails his or her boat differently based on their own level of comfort and that of the crew. As a result, my feeling is that setting up a rig by the numbers, i.e., a preset percentage of shroud wire breaking strength, is somewhat arbitrary. It may work for one boat but not necessarily for any other. While I think it's a good starting point, rig tuning by the numbers can create a false sense of security because there's no mention of looking at the shrouds while under sail to see how they actually respond to the loads on the rig. Nor is there any mention of what to do if one does happen to notice that the leeward shrouds are still slack. However, here's a basic universal truth. EVERY leeward shroud on EVERY boat will go slack when sailing closehauled under full sail in about 15 kts of wind unless properly tensioned. This shouldn't happen, as it is a clear sign that the mast is moving from one side to the other as the boat comes about. This can lead to shock loads in the shrouds and ultimately to a dismasting. Shock loads can be much higher than the steady ("static") loading in the shrouds. That's why I recommend tensioning the uppers until the leeward shrouds don't go slack, because it achieves the desired result in a rational, systematic manner no matter what rig, sails or boat you may have. Assuming the mast was true from side to side, all you have to do if you notice some slack in the leeward shroud is to stop the boat and tighten the turnbuckles on BOTH sides by the same amount, usually half a turn. Then resume sailing. If the problem persists, stop and add another half a turn. Repeat as needed until the problem is solved. THEN use the Loos gauge to measure the shroud tensions on BOTH sides (they should be even) and write them down for future reference. If you ever unstep the mast you'll know exactly how much load to dial in next time (I used to put nail polish on the turnbuckles before unscrewing them but I got tired of the funny looks from people on the docks whenever I pulled a bottle of bright red Max Factor out of my pocket). In case you're wondering about the "closehauled under full sail in 15 kt of wind..." That's a rough guide (it could be anywhere from 12 kt to 20 kt depending on your boat and level of comfort). In winds above 15 kt, most small boat sailors reef the mainsail, which reduces the load on the rig. Again, I'm not trying to bust anybody's chops here. I just tend not to follow a procedure unless I can also understand why I'm doing it. That way I can revise the procedure (or even abandon it) if it's not achieving the desired result. I wouldn't offer less to anyone else. Peter H23 "Raven"
I'll give you a hand next week if you like
FloridaEd: I'll be off for a couple of days next week. I have to swing by Monroe Harbour one day next week, so if your boat's in the water I'll stop by and give you a hand with tuning the rig. It should take about an hour or so, a bit more if you want to tune on the water. Peter H23 "Raven"
FloridaEd: I'll be off for a couple of days next week. I have to swing by Monroe Harbour one day next week, so if your boat's in the water I'll stop by and give you a hand with tuning the rig. It should take about an hour or so, a bit more if you want to tune on the water. Peter H23 "Raven"
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