I had a Hood Continuous Line furler on my H28.5 when I bought it (since replaced with a Furlex 200). I needed to replace the continuous loop furling line in the first season and, being a decent splicer of 3-strand and double braid, set out to learn how to do a "Constant Diameter Splice," which is what is needed. BTW, I found that on my boat, the line would have to be spliced on the boat in order to be threaded through the fairleads and around the drum. Long story shortened: I wasted a lot of line trying to learn and practice the splice needed. I failed. In the end, I bought some ordinary fuzzy Dacron double braid, threaded it through the blocks/drum, cut the ends on a bias with a hot knife, slipped a piece of heat shrink tubing over one end, sewed both ends together with long stitches, slid the heat shrink over the sewn joint, and melted it. Bingo. Worked like a charm and was very strong.
Having said all this, Jim Seamans told me that he was able to do the constant diameter splice "correctly" on his Hunter 356 by using Brion Toss' videotape on splicing using his tools. Said it was a piece of cake....
Good luck with this.