looking hard at a 2006 Hunter 36 - we have a couple of questions.

tfox2069 · Mar 20, 2022

George Braun said:
looked yesterday at a Hunter 36 from 2006. Can the forum answer a couple of questions?
1 - the original saloon table is missing, replaced by an odd shaped piece of wood, only fits 2 to eat at most. Table hardware is all there, lowering and raising works. Does anyone have a source for replacement table other than having a custom built?
2 - no dodger on this boat - is $5-6K reasonable for a budget for dodger and connector? Bimini is fine.
3 - The headliner is looking pretty sad in spots, dry-rotted and split in several places - has anyone experienced this? Doesn't look like it got wet other than maybe a bit of condensation over time. All the large expanses of headliner are good, but split and frayed at several edges and contours. Looks like plastic surface is degraded. nothing is actually hanging loose, just surface degraded and ugly. Costs? Methods?
4 - Boat has 5.5KW generator as a factory installed option - any known issues? It is smaller than I expected, actually, leaves plenty of cockpit locker space.
5 - deck was a tiny tiny bit rougher than I expected for a 16 yr old boat, bit of crazing in some corners, nothing more than cosmetic, or is it? Hard to tell under a winter's worth of dirt, boat is on the hard.

any input is welcome.

2009 H36 here. Some thoughts:
1. Have you asked the current owner about the table? A replacement would be expensive, so worth considering in the negotiations if they don’t have it. Without it you can’t turn the settee into a queen-sized berth. And it’s a nice berth. Hunterowners.com may be able to help, so message them and see what they say. I’m guessing $1,000-$1,500? May have to be custom made.
2. Your guesstimate on a dodger sound roughly right. You’ll really want one. Love mine. I’d do without a bimini if I had to but not without a dodger.
3. Check with Hunterowners on the headliner replacement. It’s a pain, but doable. Definitely worth doing if it’s in rough shape - but I’d figure out why. Mine is only 3 years newer and in excellent shape.
4. Surprised you have a 5.5kw gen. I thought the factory install was a 3.2kw. The weight difference in that port locker is considerable - 298 lbs for the 5.5kw vs 175 for the 3.2. Even without a generator mine lists to port with two 4D batteries in that locker. Does yours list to port? You can tell by comparing the scum line on port and starboard sides. A new generator is $$$$$, so make sure that one functions and has been regularly serviced. Spare parts would be a bonus.
5. Crazing happens, but the true test of whether it’s more than cosmetic is to inspect with a moisture meter - your surveyor will do that and tell you whether any deck spots are wet. He’ll also tap the deck to sound for soft points. (You are getting a survey if you’re serious, right?). Wet deck is a negotiating point - you’ll want them repaired.
- Ask to see the maintenance log - especially for the diesel auxiliary. How many hours on it (less important than good maintenance).
- How old are the sails? If original they’re probably ready for replacement. If the main furls into the mast DEFINITELY check that for smooth functioning. Same with a furling jib/Genoa. If you need a winch to get either in and out either you’re doing it wrong or the main is blown out, or in the case of the jib the furler could need maintenance or replacement. If it’s the main you WILL want to replace it. Fighting it every time you want to sail is no fun. The mast furling mechanism requires annual maintenance - has that been done? Are the sails in good repair? Are they serviced and cleaned regularly? It’s your primary means of propulsion, so they REALLY matter, and they’re expensive. Around $6,000 to replace both. Negotiating point.
- Have a rigger do an aloft check of the rigging and mast. For <$200 it’s WELL worth it, and your surveyor won’t do that. They found things like my radar mounting bolts backing out, and my vhf antenna was shot. If a lot of work is needed it’s a negotiating point.
- Have the sewage lines ever been replaced? Probably not and if the “wet rag” test turns up stinky they’re permeated and you may consider replacing yourself. Not pleasant, but boat smell will improve. Also, if it has a macerator and you can’t pump overboard get rid of it and cap off the tank exit. They corrode and leak sewage.
- The electronics are probably all long in the tooth. Check for full functionality - including receive AND transmit on the VHF. Replacements are expensive and the install cost almost double the overall cost of replacement.
Let me know if you have specific questions on that boat; I’ve been all thru mine and know it very well. Good luck - it’s a GREAT boat for coastal cruising and singlehanding.

Ralph Johnstone · Mar 20, 2022

I hope you've got a surveyor to go over the boat with a fine toothed comb. For a 2006 boat, it sounds like it's been used, abused, and neglected brutally.

George Braun said:
3 - The headliner is looking pretty sad in spots, dry-rotted and split in several places - has anyone experienced this?

This sounds as if the boat has seen time as an open and abandoned derelict.

Surveyors don't usually inspect engines so be sure you have a mechanic in to inspect the engines carefully. The cosmetics sound bad but it's the out of sight stuff that you should really be worried about in terms of cost.

If it were me, I'd get away from that boat as fast as possible, regardless of the price.

Ralph Johnstone · Mar 20, 2022

George Braun said:
Is there a separate dedicated start battery? from the labeling on the main DC disconnect/select switch, don't think so.

As you've described, there should be one starter battery and a single bank for the house. I think all of the batteries are shot from the description of the rest of the boat so maybe include that with the bargaining.

George Braun said:
95% of the headliner is damaged, the vast majority is good.

Something really bad going down in there. No idea what. Don't want to be a Debbie Downer (already have been) but I think this will turn out to be a huge regret if you purchase the boat.

tfox2069 · Mar 20, 2022

George Braun said:
if we make an offer we certainly will have a survey, and pay close attention to all that is found. Boat is on the hard, so we don't know if it listed to port where the batteries and generator are. Can always move the battery boxes to the opposite side. Will get a rigger to go aloft on survey day if can arrange, I have some considerable rigging/tuning experience, but the B&R/furling is a complex rig that is beyond me. 95% of the headliner is damaged, the vast majority is good. If we go forward, a bit of white duct tape will take it through to next winter, allow us to figure out best DIY approach.

Saloon table is a no-brainer, find a woodworking source that we are happy with, done. Hardware is there. Simple shape, subject to design considerations that will drive budget.

Another question since we didn't empty the cockpit locker - boat has 4 group 27 AGM's in description, 2 banks. Is there a separate dedicated start battery? from the labeling on the main DC disconnect/select switch, don't think so. Opinions? I've always liked a dedicated start paired with a larger deep cycle house bank, no experience with AGM's but understand the technology difference and charging need, and all the circuitry and meters appear to work properly.

Read my original post that tells you how to see if the boat has a list while on the hard. Also, moving the batteries is no small feat - there’s no starboard cockpit locker. You’re talking about moving the batteries inside the boat in that case. Not sure where you’d place them except maybe under the starboard settee.
Headliner is available and you’ll need a tool to work with it to get it installed - it’s called Whisper Headliner, I believe. This link will probably be helpful / the 356 is virtually the same boat:

https://www.marlow-hunter.com/wp-content/export/Model-Information/356%20%20%20%20%20%20%20%20%20Hunter%20%20----/Main_Cabin_Whisper_356.pdf

As for batteries, if original probably toast or close to it. I’d do an energy budget to figure out how much capacity you need, then replace with sufficient capacity for your needs. A starter battery is not needed with a large house bank if you use a battery management/monitoring system to ensure you never deplete below starting voltage. But the boat, if like mine, has a battery switch and wiring for off/bank 1/bank2/both. I just use a large house bank and have the battery management system alarm if getting close to minimum starting voltage. Up to you - a starting battery is fine too but you have to remember to charge it. I don’t use the second bank’s wiring, but it would work for a starter battery. My battery box holds three group 31 batteries, which I parallel to one big house bank.

Ralph Johnstone · Mar 20, 2022

George Braun said:
Woops - Hold the phone

One item less to worry about.

That said, I still maintain this boat has seen a hard and neglected life. Proceed carefully and bargain like you mean it. Any way to tell how long this boat has been on the market ?

wpatch · May 19, 2022

Just bought a 04 Hunter 36 and did the full survey. Surveyor and Broker were both very familiar with the Hunters.

With her being on the hard I would be concerned about top moisture spots (especially with the liner issues).
Keel: 06 I think would be an iron keel, very worth a deep dive there.
Rudder: Wet rudder obvious concern

I'd be a bit nervous about the overall deck also....but good luck!