Looking for new outboard

Status
Not open for further replies.

RichH

.
Feb 14, 2005
4,773
Tayana 37 cutter; I20/M20 SCOWS Worton Creek, MD
For some reason, I have a really hard time starting it with the internal tank -- I thought the internal tank would be great because this motor sips gas, and most of the time I wouldn't need more than 1/2 gallon, but I haven't used it since the first few dys that I had the motor because of the starting problem. I think the problem may be because there is no way to prime it with the internal tamnk (there is no primer bulb), but I'm not sure.

I'd be curious to hear if anyone else has had this problem with an internal tohatsu tank.
For such starting problems, either install a 'purge valve' on the inlet side of the carb ... will 'force' fuel to completely 'fill' the carb's 'bowl chamber'; if the 'bowl chamber isnt completely filled with fuel you will not obtain the proper fuel/air ratio.... or simply remove the gas cap on the 'internal tank' and 'pressurize the tank' with your mouth for a few seconds. Usually after starting the small diaphragm pumps (rubber 'flap' valves, etc.) will be operating normally .... the problem is the 'starting'.

If 'mouth pressure' on the tank remedies the difficult starting, then strongly consider to add a 'purge valve' to the carb .... do the mouth pressurization of the tank 'first' and if that 'works', then consider the purge valve. The 'mouth pressure' will help to remove any 'air bubbles' that were formed in the fuel line during long term 'shut down' and will help to fill the 'carb. bowl' chamber. Such 'purge valves' are usually found on RELIABLE top of the line chain saws, etc. such as Husquvarna, etc.

Also with hard starting, you can consider to use LARGER (inside diameter) hosing from the tank to the carb ... with larger connections to reduce the 'flow restrictions' that are presently restricting proper start-up fuel flow. Those fuel lines should be 'straight as possible' and without kinks and with minimum 'bends' to ensure proper fuel flow).
 
Oct 26, 2005
2,057
- - Satellite Beach, FL.
Ive got a pearson 26w I bought a new tohatsu 8hp 4 cycle long shaft to replace a tired 8hp merc 2 cycle. It was a mistake. The 4 cycle has almost twice the power of the old 2 cycle.
At half throttle It moves my boat at hull speed If I had it to do over again I would buy a 6hp more than enough power. Seems to me you could do with a 4 hp 4cycle unless their are other considerations I dont know about About EIectric start: My motor is pull start. Im 75,
My wife is 74 both of us can start the motor without much effort. I have a 3gal portable tank
In MA you cannot buy ethanol free gas unless you have an airplane. Like Rich H said I never
use gas that is over 30 days old. I just dump it in my car.
I had a similar porblem with my 6hp Tohatsu, ran probably hull speed at less than 1/2 throttle and too fast even at idle for manuvering around the dock. I replaced the 8" pitch original prop with a high thrust 6" pitch. With the new prop I can go dead slow but when I want to travel the motor has to run higher rpms/louder so I intend to try the 7" pitch later and see how that does. My motor is in a cut out in the transom instead of on a mount with the transome between it and the cockpit so we get all the noise.
Might be a different prop would help with your situation.
 
Jul 28, 2010
914
Boston Whaler Montauk New Orleans
I agree with Merlinuxo. An 8hp 2 stroke has the same power as an 8hp 4 stroke - HP is HP. Outboards will have a manufacturer recommended RPM at wide open throttle(WOT). If your RPMs are too high at WOT (assuming everything else is good), you need a higher pitched prop. If your RPMs are too low at WOT, you need a lower pitched prop. Call Tohatsu or check your manual to see what the recommended RPM at WOT is.
 
Status
Not open for further replies.