I am putting an offer on a 1974 41' Gulfstar Ketch, any info on how other owners feel about their's would be appreciated! We have been sailing a 32'Morgan sloop. So the center cockpit and working a ketch sail plan will be new for us, we normally sail as a couple, usually 'short-handed'. Thanks, Dan
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bill bonin
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Walt
'74 Gulfstar CC
Dan, I've owned a GS 41, 1974, CC sloop (Orion)for the last 8 years. I can't comment on the ketch rig, but I'd guess the hull is the same. Overall I've been very pleased with this boat. My wife and I sail her, mostly in Penobscot Bay, and I can pretty much single hand the boat in most all situations. When we first bought her there was some delamination in the keel that had to be repaired. There are also some soft spots on the forward deck due to water getting into the balsa core that I'll take care of this year. The hull is very solid and there has been no blistering. She's been from Maine to the Exhumas and back without any structural problems. For the two of us she's almost too roomy, more boat than we really need. HOwever, we like her enough that we decided to put a new Yanmar in her this year for piece of mind. Let me know if you have any specific questions.
Dan, I've owned a GS 41, 1974, CC sloop (Orion)for the last 8 years. I can't comment on the ketch rig, but I'd guess the hull is the same. Overall I've been very pleased with this boat. My wife and I sail her, mostly in Penobscot Bay, and I can pretty much single hand the boat in most all situations. When we first bought her there was some delamination in the keel that had to be repaired. There are also some soft spots on the forward deck due to water getting into the balsa core that I'll take care of this year. The hull is very solid and there has been no blistering. She's been from Maine to the Exhumas and back without any structural problems. For the two of us she's almost too roomy, more boat than we really need. HOwever, we like her enough that we decided to put a new Yanmar in her this year for piece of mind. Let me know if you have any specific questions.
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Peter
GS 41
Dan, we have a 1975 GS41 Plan B sloop and are very pleased with her. Heavily built and solid, steady motion under way. Easy to single hand with controls close to helm. We bought her for safety and comfort, but have been surprised by her speed, easily keeping up with same sized Beneteaus and Hunters. We have been refitting as we go, so far replacing deck core, pumps, head pumbing, stove, fresh water system and rudder post support bracket. Check this last item as it is made of mild steel and ours was a crumbling pile of rust. The original mast is a massive extrusion and in like new condition. The roller furling boom has been converted to slab reefing plus lazy jacks and works fine. Overall it's a lot of boat for the money and well worth upgrading. Good luck with yours.
Dan, we have a 1975 GS41 Plan B sloop and are very pleased with her. Heavily built and solid, steady motion under way. Easy to single hand with controls close to helm. We bought her for safety and comfort, but have been surprised by her speed, easily keeping up with same sized Beneteaus and Hunters. We have been refitting as we go, so far replacing deck core, pumps, head pumbing, stove, fresh water system and rudder post support bracket. Check this last item as it is made of mild steel and ours was a crumbling pile of rust. The original mast is a massive extrusion and in like new condition. The roller furling boom has been converted to slab reefing plus lazy jacks and works fine. Overall it's a lot of boat for the money and well worth upgrading. Good luck with yours.
Info on Upgrades and Repairs
Peter, I note in your reply to Dan that you have repaied the core and rudder posts in your 1975 Gulfstar. I'm interested in those two projects before next year. Can you give me any details on how you did the core? My front deck is a bit spongy, and I'm concerned about the rudder post, mostly becuase I can't inspect it easily.
Peter, I note in your reply to Dan that you have repaied the core and rudder posts in your 1975 Gulfstar. I'm interested in those two projects before next year. Can you give me any details on how you did the core? My front deck is a bit spongy, and I'm concerned about the rudder post, mostly becuase I can't inspect it easily.
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Peter
GS41 upgrades and repairs
Walt, the deck repair involves removing one of the fiberglass skins (top or bottom),removing the wet/delaminated balsa core, installing new core and glassing the skin back in place. I did our cabintop core by removing the lower skin. This is initially more difficult but it avoids the extensive cosmetic repairs that the deck surface would require if the top skin were removed and reinstalled. A good tool for cutting the skin is a Rotozip with a 1/8" carbide bit. Screw temporary battens near the cut lines to guide the tool, as it is hard to control by free hand. The new core is two layers of 1/4" marine ply, sealed and laminated with West epoxy. Two thin layers instead of a single 1/2" are easier to bend to match the curve of the cabintop. If you are doing flat areas like the side deck you could probably use the 1/2" ply. Also got rid of the biggest leak source, the original teak mast collar that was just screwed to the deck with sheet metal screws. The new collar is welded stainless plate, bedded and thru-bolted. The rudder post is a solid 1.75"d. stainless shaft with no visible wear or corrosion, even in the packing gland area, so I'm not too worried about it. But I had to replace the heavily corroded support bridge which is made of mild steel. This bridge is the square frame directly under the steering quadrant and it supports all the weight of the rudder/shaft/quadrant system. If it should fail, the rudder would drop to the shoe at the bottom of the skeg and probably jam. While I had the system apart I installed new packing, 3 rings of the 7/16" teflon impregnated stuff. This looks like it would be impossible to do with the support bridge and quadrant in place. Let me know if you'd like additional details.
Walt, the deck repair involves removing one of the fiberglass skins (top or bottom),removing the wet/delaminated balsa core, installing new core and glassing the skin back in place. I did our cabintop core by removing the lower skin. This is initially more difficult but it avoids the extensive cosmetic repairs that the deck surface would require if the top skin were removed and reinstalled. A good tool for cutting the skin is a Rotozip with a 1/8" carbide bit. Screw temporary battens near the cut lines to guide the tool, as it is hard to control by free hand. The new core is two layers of 1/4" marine ply, sealed and laminated with West epoxy. Two thin layers instead of a single 1/2" are easier to bend to match the curve of the cabintop. If you are doing flat areas like the side deck you could probably use the 1/2" ply. Also got rid of the biggest leak source, the original teak mast collar that was just screwed to the deck with sheet metal screws. The new collar is welded stainless plate, bedded and thru-bolted. The rudder post is a solid 1.75"d. stainless shaft with no visible wear or corrosion, even in the packing gland area, so I'm not too worried about it. But I had to replace the heavily corroded support bridge which is made of mild steel. This bridge is the square frame directly under the steering quadrant and it supports all the weight of the rudder/shaft/quadrant system. If it should fail, the rudder would drop to the shoe at the bottom of the skeg and probably jam. While I had the system apart I installed new packing, 3 rings of the 7/16" teflon impregnated stuff. This looks like it would be impossible to do with the support bridge and quadrant in place. Let me know if you'd like additional details.
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