Lock screw for Selden in-mast furling locking tube

[bobatkins]

I have a Selden in mast RC Mk-III furling system on my Hunter 41. About a year ago I was having a lot of problems with the sail binding up when I was unfurling. This would happen no matter how carefully I held tension on the outhaul when furling in to avoid a baggy furl.

Well one day a rigger suggesting checking the foil tension. He explained that I needed to remove the sail to do it properly, slide the locking tube up to expose the tensioning screw and then adjust the foil tension so that it just barely slapped the inside of the mast when you grab and shake it. So, I did as he instructed. Once the sail was removed I didn't see the locking collar but I did find the tensioning screw so I adjust it as instructed.

Then the light bulb went on. Where is the locking tube?? It didn't take long to find - it was stuck up inside the halyard swivel. How did it get there? The last time (or who knows when) the mainsail was lowered halyard swivel was brought down on top of the locking collar and when the main was hauled back up it took the locking tube with it. So the furling drive had been disengaged from the foil for quite a while and this resulted in a bagged up furl.

I suspect that there are many others that may be experiencing similar furling problems that may likely be caused by the same problem that I discovered on my boat - the furling drive is not engaged to the foil because the locking tube has been drawn up inside the halyard swivel.

OK, so it turns out that there is a tiny little screw hole in which a tiny screw of unknown thread type is supposed to keep the locking tube in place. This screw is referred to as the lock tube retaining screw in the Selden manuals. This is the ONE PART that is most likely to be lost when working on the furling system but do you think that Selden lists this screw in the parts manual - well no that would be too logical.

I have tried an M4 screw as well as #6-32 and #8-32 and nothing threads into the hole properly. I pretty sure that it is a metric thread and I don't have ready access to metric screws that are smaller than M4 and it seems to me that an M3 would be too small. Does anyone out there know what type of screw goes in there?

 

[Ken Honeycutt]

bob,

Had almost the exact problem on my H36. The tube slid up and allowed the foil to loosen to the point that the sail was jamming almost every time I furled. Luckily I didn't lose the screw you are talking about. Found the problem during fall layup. Wish I could help you out. I torqued the screw down with lock tight after I found the problem.

Have you tried calling?

Seldén Mast Inc., USA​

Tel +1 843-760-6278
Fax +1 843-760-1220​

e-mail info@seldenus.com

Seldén Mast Inc., USA​

Tel +1 843-760-6278
Fax +1 843-760-1220​

e-mail info@seldenus.com

 

[Dave Groshong]

I sent your inquiry to Selden, I'll let you know what they say. Or you can call the numbers posted above, ask for Scott, Bernie or Lawton.

 

[bobatkins]

Thank you both Ken and Dave for your help.

I called Selden yesterday and was told that the screw is actually captive underneath the lock tube. The confusing part is that with the main fully furled out with the tack hook facing aft, the part of the lock tube facing the inspection port has a screw hole with threads - it just looks like an empty screw hole. The assumption that I made was that I needed to put a screw in that hole to keep the lock tube in place.

Turns out that according to the guy I spoke with at Selden, I need to rotate the furling tube 180 deg to see the other side (tack hook facing forward) and I should see the head of the captive screw through the hole on the other side of the lock tube. All I need to do is tighten that screw and it will extend through the hole on the other side and that will keep the lock tube in place.

It never occurred to me to look at the opposite side and even the maintenance instructions do not describe the configuration. It sure would be nice if there was a label on the tube that referred back to the opposite side to look for the lock screw.

 

[Dave Groshong]

Here is the reply I received from Scott at Selden, email me if you'd like the attachments:

"I know what this gentleman is looking for. I have attached the appropriate pages of the manual, which is always available on our website, for review. I have also attached the instructions for tensioning the luff rod. Too loose or too tight of a luff rod can certainly cause problems furling. The luff rods are supposed to be set by the commissioning rigger but evidently this can get overlooked. Other furling mast manufacturers don’t have the ability to tension the luff rod so many riggers don’t even consider it! The document 595-063 would be a great resource for you to make available on your site. Also the screw that this boat owner in particular is looking for is part number 155-034 and has a retail price of $2.00. I have them in stock if you want to offer him this great deal. When the tensioning procedure is done correctly the screw never leaves the threaded portion of the luff rod, it simply becomes centered inside the cylinder thus allowing it to slide up or down."

 

[bobatkins]

Here is the reply I received from Scott at Selden, email me if you'd like the attachments:

"I know what this gentleman is looking for. I have attached the appropriate pages of the manual, which is always available on our website, for review. I have also attached the instructions for tensioning the luff rod. Too loose or too tight of a luff rod can certainly cause problems furling. The luff rods are supposed to be set by the commissioning rigger but evidently this can get overlooked. Other furling mast manufacturers don’t have the ability to tension the luff rod so many riggers don’t even consider it! The document 595-063 would be a great resource for you to make available on your site. Also the screw that this boat owner in particular is looking for is part number 155-034 and has a retail price of $2.00. I have them in stock if you want to offer him this great deal. When the tensioning procedure is done correctly the screw never leaves the threaded portion of the luff rod, it simply becomes centered inside the cylinder thus allowing it to slide up or down."

Dave,

I am pretty certain that the screw should be captive in the furling drive as was described to me by Selden earlier this week. Page 13 of the parts manual shows the lock tube (D12) and the lock screw (D10) and now that I have examined it closely I can see that I need to rotate the luff rod 180deg (tack hook facing forward) in order to have the captured screw head facing the inspection port and be able to tighten it to have it protrude from the opposite side and hold the lock tube in place.

I have attached a pdf of Page 13 of the parts manual for reference.

 

[sailmaster39]

furling main sail

This is great stuff for all Hunter owners with furling main sails. Especially for the detailed page you referenced in your message. Thanks for the heads up on this issue.

 

[Akapeterc]

Great info to know, I was having the same problem always jamming when using the out haul line but have found a way around the problem by using the out furling line to push the sail out and then take up the slack with the out haul line. Works great this way just means running back and forward from winch to furling line. I will definitely look for this next time I drop the main. Thanks for this info

 

[Ken Honeycutt]

I can't link to the pdf file but if you go to selden.com and look under the manuals section, manual 595-059-E on page 5 explains how to tension the luff extrusion.