Lock for Drop Boards.

[sailortonyb Allied Mis]

Im making a new set of companionway doors and normally i will use them most of the time. However, when i leave the boat for extended periods, i use the drop boards. I was wondering if anyone here has any method of locking the drop boards and companionway hatch with no hardware on the drop boards at all. I have some ideas, but was wondering what you guys have done, if anything.I dont want hardware on the drop boards because it seems to always tare up the varnish when stored.I would like to drop the drop boards in a canvas sack that closes for storage with no protrusions. Thanks in advance.Tony B

 

[JungleJetJock]

How mine is set

I have an H260 which has a large plexiglass sliding hatch. There is a bit of an overhang from the hatch and boards. With a hole in the hatch near the edge I can put a pad lock through which prevents you from sliding open the hatch which in turn prevents the removing of the drop boards. I don't know if you can do this or not with how your boat is set up but it is an idea.

 

[sailortonyb Allied Mis]

I was thinking along similar lines

Thanks JJ. I was thinking along similar lines. I was thinking of maybe a locking handle that could go on the hatch cover 'lip' and lock in the down position. That would prevent the hatch from being slid open and in turn prevent the hatch boards from being removed. Im realistiuc in that i realize that this setup will only keep honest people out,Tony B

 

[Lou 14643]

How about a tang on the sliding hatch cover

...that would come through a slot in the top hatch board and accept a padlock through it. I anticipated doing this when I made new hatch boards this year. I was set to go that route when I went to buy a stainless steel tang and realized that for something as heavy as I'd want, I'd wind up spending somewhat more that for a substantial, decent looking hasp I found on eBay. Went the latter route and sewed a canvas storage bag with a separate sleeve for each of my five boards, to keep the hasp and its bolts from marring the other boards. I still like the slot and tang solution, though. The tang would be mounted to a block on the underside of the sliding hatch. It would be mounted so that it would be secure, but could be pivoted out of the way when not in use (you don't want to get poked in the eye by it as you enter the cabin). I was anticipating putting a slotted oval or circle of stainless on the board over the slot in the hatch board, so that the lock would not rest directly on the wood, but rather on metal, and not mar the finish. Hope this makes sense.

 

[CalebD]

On our boat the slot is horizontal on the top drop board.

And the tang pivots so it can duck out of the way as suggested. Sorry I don't have a picture of this to post.

 

[Ross]

Remember that locks on wood only keep honest

people out. The top board will fail with a couple of heavy blows from a big maul hammer or a strong prybar will split the board. Good ideas have been posted and you're not building a bank vault. Proof of a break-in is all you need for the police and the insurance co.