I don't really want to go the extra hog and spring for a Link20, just to monitor the starter battery. I read in an archived article that the Link 10 can be made to additionally monitor just the voltage of the starter battery - but the poster didn't say how. http://archive.sailboatowners.com/archive/archiverview.tpl?rid=2002032184948.33&forumabr=aao&fno=2 Is this possible, if it is then this is a perfect solution for me.
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Switch?
The .pdf manual only shows 1 voltage input. My guess would be that a monentary, Single Pole, Double Throw switch would provide the ability to check the starter battery voltage, while still maintaining the charge monitoring of the house battery. Pete Albright S/V Nancy Ross, H30
The .pdf manual only shows 1 voltage input. My guess would be that a monentary, Single Pole, Double Throw switch would provide the ability to check the starter battery voltage, while still maintaining the charge monitoring of the house battery. Pete Albright S/V Nancy Ross, H30
I would use a momentary switch
As was suggested by Pete, a simple switch to swap batteries to the sense leads of the Link 10 should let you read the starter battery voltage. However, if a constant switch is used and is forgotten to be switched back to the house bank, the link 10 will tally the amp-hours based upon the current of the house battery and the voltage of the starter battery. The resulting display of power used and state of charge will not be correct. I have a Link 20 for my two house banks, and have never felt the need to monitor the starting battery, but I suppose it would be nice. Rich
As was suggested by Pete, a simple switch to swap batteries to the sense leads of the Link 10 should let you read the starter battery voltage. However, if a constant switch is used and is forgotten to be switched back to the house bank, the link 10 will tally the amp-hours based upon the current of the house battery and the voltage of the starter battery. The resulting display of power used and state of charge will not be correct. I have a Link 20 for my two house banks, and have never felt the need to monitor the starting battery, but I suppose it would be nice. Rich
Yes, agree with you Pete and Rich
Yes, I just downloaded the manual yesterday and took a look. There is only one voltage input, so the poster must have used a switch... or how about if the voltage was taken after the battery switch. This would work, but as mentioned it has the danger of throwing off the historical data for the house bank. I did have a crazy idea of using the optional temerature sensor as an "indicator"... but that would throw off the curve used to calculate for the house bank - hey, I said it was crazy
I think I'll just add a Teleflex volt meter guage, ca.binnacle.com has them for a good price. Actually, speaking of the the temperature sensor - do people feel it is worth getting this addition?
Yes, I just downloaded the manual yesterday and took a look. There is only one voltage input, so the poster must have used a switch... or how about if the voltage was taken after the battery switch. This would work, but as mentioned it has the danger of throwing off the historical data for the house bank. I did have a crazy idea of using the optional temerature sensor as an "indicator"... but that would throw off the curve used to calculate for the house bank - hey, I said it was crazy
I think I'll just add a Teleflex volt meter guage, ca.binnacle.com has them for a good price. Actually, speaking of the the temperature sensor - do people feel it is worth getting this addition?Don't bother...
I'm going with the link 1000 this time (had link 20 on previous boat) I don't feel any need to monitor the start battery voltage. Voltage alone won't really tell you much anyway... Once you go to crank over the voltage is likely to drop substantially... You could see that it is being charged I suppose... But when sitting around the anchorage the house batteries are the ones I need to watch. I guess it looks like you could switch the leads on number 4 on the diagram. You just have to leave the meter power connected at all times or it dumps the memory and you have no idea where your batteries are!!! (voice of experience here) I love the link monitor and can't wait to hook mine up on the new boat. We felt naked with out it! Scott
I'm going with the link 1000 this time (had link 20 on previous boat) I don't feel any need to monitor the start battery voltage. Voltage alone won't really tell you much anyway... Once you go to crank over the voltage is likely to drop substantially... You could see that it is being charged I suppose... But when sitting around the anchorage the house batteries are the ones I need to watch. I guess it looks like you could switch the leads on number 4 on the diagram. You just have to leave the meter power connected at all times or it dumps the memory and you have no idea where your batteries are!!! (voice of experience here) I love the link monitor and can't wait to hook mine up on the new boat. We felt naked with out it! Scott
Hmmm...
I had a Link20 on my 320 and now I just have the dumb V meters on my new 380... I too feel naked with the link. I like the idea of just going with the 10 for the house. I think anything you do to swicth in the other bank would skew the data it collects. With he 380 getting a trickle charge on the Start battery from a small solar panel, I feel pretty ok without monitoring it (except for the dumb monitor). I carry one of those hot shot things anyway... The house bank is a whole other ball game....after all I only have 2 4D's
I had a Link20 on my 320 and now I just have the dumb V meters on my new 380... I too feel naked with the link. I like the idea of just going with the 10 for the house. I think anything you do to swicth in the other bank would skew the data it collects. With he 380 getting a trickle charge on the Start battery from a small solar panel, I feel pretty ok without monitoring it (except for the dumb monitor). I carry one of those hot shot things anyway... The house bank is a whole other ball game....after all I only have 2 4D's
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