Good Afternoon Everyone, I'm outfitting a new C36 and was wondering what most people carry for lines on thier boats. Aside from the standard dock lines I was planning on carring two or three 100 ft lines and maybe a 50ft. Is this to little or to much. Also we'll carry about 6 fenders. I'm thinking of rafting and whatever situation may require more lines. I'm interested in what people would do to outfit a new boat? Thanks in advance, Chris Hyland
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Go to your local chandlery
Hi Chris, I suggest going to your local used marine chandlery and buy everything in sight! I'm only half joking about this - it seems like that's just what I did and my boat was pretty well outfitted already. I have a stupidly large selection of line on my boat. This stuff, thin stuff, braid, three-strand - you name it, I got it! Most of it is used stuff I picked up cheap just for the heck of it. You can never have too much line, right? One line might be WAY too long for what you want to use it for so just grab another. You'd be surprised at how many times you'll use spare line for jury rigging something. Good call on getting 6 fenders. Just be sure you don't leave them hanging while underway or you'll be the "boat nerd" of your area!
LaDonna
Hi Chris, I suggest going to your local used marine chandlery and buy everything in sight! I'm only half joking about this - it seems like that's just what I did and my boat was pretty well outfitted already. I have a stupidly large selection of line on my boat. This stuff, thin stuff, braid, three-strand - you name it, I got it! Most of it is used stuff I picked up cheap just for the heck of it. You can never have too much line, right? One line might be WAY too long for what you want to use it for so just grab another. You'd be surprised at how many times you'll use spare line for jury rigging something. Good call on getting 6 fenders. Just be sure you don't leave them hanging while underway or you'll be the "boat nerd" of your area!
LaDonnaDon't let anyone feed you a line...
I agree with LaDonna...you can never have too much line. But along with the line, I would suggest a couple of dockline snubbers. They're a cheap way of saving your deck hardware. Now let's see...a couple of extra snap shackles, couple of extra blocks, hard mounted GPS, hand held back-up GPS, maybe an SSB, hmmmm...radar...icemaker...YEAH YEAH that's it...AN ICEMAKER...Mmmmm...frozen margaritas...Parrot Bay slushies.... Sorry...got carried away. Launching in a couple of weeks. Cheers, Bob
I agree with LaDonna...you can never have too much line. But along with the line, I would suggest a couple of dockline snubbers. They're a cheap way of saving your deck hardware. Now let's see...a couple of extra snap shackles, couple of extra blocks, hard mounted GPS, hand held back-up GPS, maybe an SSB, hmmmm...radar...icemaker...YEAH YEAH that's it...AN ICEMAKER...Mmmmm...frozen margaritas...Parrot Bay slushies.... Sorry...got carried away. Launching in a couple of weeks. Cheers, Bob
Lines and fenders
I see an awful amount of sailors who when leaving they disconnect their lines and go.Now when they come back to their slip,they have to rety up their boat. I always have enough lines to leave the old with the loops for the cleets on the dock and enough to do the same when I arrive at my destination,PLUS SPARES. Now that I think I can back the boat in, I bring it all the way back to the dock and step off the aft and tie it up either by someone throwing me the lines ,grabbing the lines,or using a hook.Im 70 and sail with the help of one,1/2 mate.Im in heaven when I have an extra hand
I see an awful amount of sailors who when leaving they disconnect their lines and go.Now when they come back to their slip,they have to rety up their boat. I always have enough lines to leave the old with the loops for the cleets on the dock and enough to do the same when I arrive at my destination,PLUS SPARES. Now that I think I can back the boat in, I bring it all the way back to the dock and step off the aft and tie it up either by someone throwing me the lines ,grabbing the lines,or using a hook.Im 70 and sail with the help of one,1/2 mate.Im in heaven when I have an extra hand
Enough Rope
Feb.21,2001 Dear Chris, First let me say congratulations on your new boat, long may you sail. As to your specific questions here is another point of view. Unlike some I am of the opinion that you can have too much rope. I wouldn’t buy line just for the sake of having line. I would make sure I had a use for it, even if only for a possible emergency. Your 100 foot line would make a useful tow line for your own boat for example, provided it is of a suitable strength, and I would recommend nylon for its shock absorbing qualities. You may want to rig that on a bridal either from the stern cleats to tow another boat in distress or around your own mast or anchor cleat if you need to be towed. There’s another piece of line. I also think it is a waste of money to “pay good brass for old rope”. Remember this seamanship rule about lines: a line without an eye spliced into it is useless. It is particularly difficult if not impossible to splice old braided line. Furthermore old stiff braided line is difficult to knot. Knots, such as bowlines, are temporary measures only and should be replaced with spliced eyes for things like those six new fenders and your dock lines. Before you buy line think of what you are going to use it for and buy the appropriate size. For example, for those new fenders I would recommend a laid line in anywhere from 1/4 to 3/8 inch diameter. Do yourself a favour and splice a six foot length to each eye on the fender. That way they can be instantly hung sideways for that raft up, to fend off a dinghy,etc.. Tie the bottom line around the top of the fender when not in use to keep it out of the water. I note that your boat has an overall length of 36 feet. You also mention that you have “the usual dock lines” By that I assume you mean 1 breast line, 15 feet long, 2 bow lines and 2 stern lines 25 feet long and 4 spring lines 45 feet long all of which have at least one eye spliced into them. The bow lines and stern lines have to be able to meet comfortably at the center of the boat so you can step off with them in hand after tieing the breast line, which is why I suggest the 25 foot length. The spring lines should be about 125% of the overall length of the boat to account for tidal range. If you have tides over about 7 to 8 feet you will want them to be a bit longer. Always take your dock lines with you when you leave the dock. If you don’t you will need a second complete set. You will have a nylon or floating line for a painter for towing the dinghy long enough to allow it to be towed behind the boat on the second stern wave (about 35 feet) with its own snubber to absorb shock and set on a bridle on the big boat rigged between the stern cleats. You will have a chain snubber for the anchor rode with a devil’s claw or chain hook spliced to it about 30 feet long and made of 3/8 to 7/16 laid nylon line. You will have a 65 foot buoyant heaving line (about 1/4 inch) with a monkey fist tied around a float, like a rubber ball. For general use on a new boat I would get 200 - 300 feet of laid nylon in the 1/4 inch to 3/8 inch size and get busy splicing whips on everything that needs them: fenders, buckets, tarps, jerry cans, etc. You will be surprised how fast you can go through a couple of hundred feet of it. Those 6 fenders will go through 70 - 80 feet of it alone, and that is just the start. And of course there are always the novelty items one can make like a cat of 9 tails with which to amuse guests and cheer up the crew. The other line that I think is a real good idea to have a ready supply of is small stuff, either 1/8 or 3/16 inch braided nylon. This is tough, durable and invaluable for tieing a raft of small things down. You can use it to make a lead line to take soundings, useful for exploring new anchorages by dinghy before taking the big boat in, and also to test the accuracy of your depth sounder and act as a back up to it when, not if, it fails. I use it for flag halyards on the mast and stern flag pole. I also use small stuff for decorative rope work, like the French spiral hitch I used to cover the wheel and binnacle hand rail. I have turk’s heads on the wheel to mark center and on the lifelines to hold the lifeline gates open above the deck, on the butt of the handle of the boat hook to prevent slipping, on the bottom of the sheath of the multi tool to make the belt loop smaller, etc. I use it to tie tools to the bosuns chair and around my wrist when working over the side. Don’t cheap out buy a whole spool of it, because its uses are endless. I hope this gives you some ideas. Fair Winds, Brian Pickton@BeneteauOwners.net Aboard The Legend, Rodney Bay, St. Lucia
Feb.21,2001 Dear Chris, First let me say congratulations on your new boat, long may you sail. As to your specific questions here is another point of view. Unlike some I am of the opinion that you can have too much rope. I wouldn’t buy line just for the sake of having line. I would make sure I had a use for it, even if only for a possible emergency. Your 100 foot line would make a useful tow line for your own boat for example, provided it is of a suitable strength, and I would recommend nylon for its shock absorbing qualities. You may want to rig that on a bridal either from the stern cleats to tow another boat in distress or around your own mast or anchor cleat if you need to be towed. There’s another piece of line. I also think it is a waste of money to “pay good brass for old rope”. Remember this seamanship rule about lines: a line without an eye spliced into it is useless. It is particularly difficult if not impossible to splice old braided line. Furthermore old stiff braided line is difficult to knot. Knots, such as bowlines, are temporary measures only and should be replaced with spliced eyes for things like those six new fenders and your dock lines. Before you buy line think of what you are going to use it for and buy the appropriate size. For example, for those new fenders I would recommend a laid line in anywhere from 1/4 to 3/8 inch diameter. Do yourself a favour and splice a six foot length to each eye on the fender. That way they can be instantly hung sideways for that raft up, to fend off a dinghy,etc.. Tie the bottom line around the top of the fender when not in use to keep it out of the water. I note that your boat has an overall length of 36 feet. You also mention that you have “the usual dock lines” By that I assume you mean 1 breast line, 15 feet long, 2 bow lines and 2 stern lines 25 feet long and 4 spring lines 45 feet long all of which have at least one eye spliced into them. The bow lines and stern lines have to be able to meet comfortably at the center of the boat so you can step off with them in hand after tieing the breast line, which is why I suggest the 25 foot length. The spring lines should be about 125% of the overall length of the boat to account for tidal range. If you have tides over about 7 to 8 feet you will want them to be a bit longer. Always take your dock lines with you when you leave the dock. If you don’t you will need a second complete set. You will have a nylon or floating line for a painter for towing the dinghy long enough to allow it to be towed behind the boat on the second stern wave (about 35 feet) with its own snubber to absorb shock and set on a bridle on the big boat rigged between the stern cleats. You will have a chain snubber for the anchor rode with a devil’s claw or chain hook spliced to it about 30 feet long and made of 3/8 to 7/16 laid nylon line. You will have a 65 foot buoyant heaving line (about 1/4 inch) with a monkey fist tied around a float, like a rubber ball. For general use on a new boat I would get 200 - 300 feet of laid nylon in the 1/4 inch to 3/8 inch size and get busy splicing whips on everything that needs them: fenders, buckets, tarps, jerry cans, etc. You will be surprised how fast you can go through a couple of hundred feet of it. Those 6 fenders will go through 70 - 80 feet of it alone, and that is just the start. And of course there are always the novelty items one can make like a cat of 9 tails with which to amuse guests and cheer up the crew. The other line that I think is a real good idea to have a ready supply of is small stuff, either 1/8 or 3/16 inch braided nylon. This is tough, durable and invaluable for tieing a raft of small things down. You can use it to make a lead line to take soundings, useful for exploring new anchorages by dinghy before taking the big boat in, and also to test the accuracy of your depth sounder and act as a back up to it when, not if, it fails. I use it for flag halyards on the mast and stern flag pole. I also use small stuff for decorative rope work, like the French spiral hitch I used to cover the wheel and binnacle hand rail. I have turk’s heads on the wheel to mark center and on the lifelines to hold the lifeline gates open above the deck, on the butt of the handle of the boat hook to prevent slipping, on the bottom of the sheath of the multi tool to make the belt loop smaller, etc. I use it to tie tools to the bosuns chair and around my wrist when working over the side. Don’t cheap out buy a whole spool of it, because its uses are endless. I hope this gives you some ideas. Fair Winds, Brian Pickton@BeneteauOwners.net Aboard The Legend, Rodney Bay, St. Lucia
Whew! Brian!!!
That is a *LOT* of line! On Prospect (h37.5) we carry a spare set of dock lines consisting of 4 25' bow/stern lines and 2 50' springs all are 5/8". We leave our "working" dock lines behind (until that day when we leave for good!). The spare set doubles (literally) as our storm lines when we get a hurricane warning. We also carry a couple of extra lines for when the slip we are put in is big (we've been put in a 60' slip) and we need to extend the line. We've never needed more than 2 spring lines. We always cross the stern lines to help keep the boat centered in the slip. Many of the lines we have came with the boat so (as Brian said) we couldn't splice in an eye. For those we tie in a bowline right before we use it. We don't leave a knot in a stored line because it can be a real b-word to untie in an emergency. When we replace the lines we'll go with eye splices in all of them. We carry two fenders most times and four if we're out cruising. Lines are tied on both ends for vertical or horizontal use. For an emergency line we would use the rode on the third anchor. Lots of small stuff in a variety of sizes. Enjoy your new boat, the C36 is one of Catalina's best. Jim
That is a *LOT* of line! On Prospect (h37.5) we carry a spare set of dock lines consisting of 4 25' bow/stern lines and 2 50' springs all are 5/8". We leave our "working" dock lines behind (until that day when we leave for good!). The spare set doubles (literally) as our storm lines when we get a hurricane warning. We also carry a couple of extra lines for when the slip we are put in is big (we've been put in a 60' slip) and we need to extend the line. We've never needed more than 2 spring lines. We always cross the stern lines to help keep the boat centered in the slip. Many of the lines we have came with the boat so (as Brian said) we couldn't splice in an eye. For those we tie in a bowline right before we use it. We don't leave a knot in a stored line because it can be a real b-word to untie in an emergency. When we replace the lines we'll go with eye splices in all of them. We carry two fenders most times and four if we're out cruising. Lines are tied on both ends for vertical or horizontal use. For an emergency line we would use the rode on the third anchor. Lots of small stuff in a variety of sizes. Enjoy your new boat, the C36 is one of Catalina's best. Jim
Fenders and Rafting
For starters, to my wife's consternation we have lots of various sizes, lengths, and types of line and it seems like it's seldom when you have just the right one. With regard to fenders, in addition to the standard type we have a large bright orange fisherman’s fender that might not look "yachty" but it's useful when rafting, marking the anchor trip line or a crab pot. And another two cents worth, when rafting align the boats so that the masts don't line up. This way if a large wake rolls through the anchorage the masts don't collide. Since you have a new boat the anchor rode could probably use upgrading. Standardly the anchor and anchor lines provided on a new boat are good for winds up to, say, 35 knots. As I recall, in New England there are occasional bursts of very high winds so it would be prudent to have a something that is stouter. In an anchorage sometimes boats will drag and having that little bit extra can save your day. The OEM rode can be used for the lunch hook. A former Narragansett Bay sailor.
For starters, to my wife's consternation we have lots of various sizes, lengths, and types of line and it seems like it's seldom when you have just the right one. With regard to fenders, in addition to the standard type we have a large bright orange fisherman’s fender that might not look "yachty" but it's useful when rafting, marking the anchor trip line or a crab pot. And another two cents worth, when rafting align the boats so that the masts don't line up. This way if a large wake rolls through the anchorage the masts don't collide. Since you have a new boat the anchor rode could probably use upgrading. Standardly the anchor and anchor lines provided on a new boat are good for winds up to, say, 35 knots. As I recall, in New England there are occasional bursts of very high winds so it would be prudent to have a something that is stouter. In an anchorage sometimes boats will drag and having that little bit extra can save your day. The OEM rode can be used for the lunch hook. A former Narragansett Bay sailor.
Renewing lines
OK , so much for the new lines. Any solutions on renewing old stiff lines that aren't chaffed? I've thought about fabric softener in a commercial machine at the nearest laundromat but that might be heresy. Thanks.
OK , so much for the new lines. Any solutions on renewing old stiff lines that aren't chaffed? I've thought about fabric softener in a commercial machine at the nearest laundromat but that might be heresy. Thanks.
Thanks for the info.
Oh well there goes another 600 bucks... I can see that I have under estimated what was needed. I think it's a good idea to buy some full rolls. How hard is it to learn to braid in the eyes? I have plenty of books, it's just getting my hands to do what the book shows that might be an issue. The dealer is providing the dock lines so I'm sure that they will be VERY sparse and barely meet requirements. My guess is that they'll all need to be upgraded. I like the idea of having a set at the dock and carring at least one set with you. Guess I'll be busy. It seems like a good project while the weather is cold to makeup and braid eyes in these lines. It's something I can do on a sunday afternoon with a fire in the fireplace and an adult beverage. Thanks again, Chris
Oh well there goes another 600 bucks... I can see that I have under estimated what was needed. I think it's a good idea to buy some full rolls. How hard is it to learn to braid in the eyes? I have plenty of books, it's just getting my hands to do what the book shows that might be an issue. The dealer is providing the dock lines so I'm sure that they will be VERY sparse and barely meet requirements. My guess is that they'll all need to be upgraded. I like the idea of having a set at the dock and carring at least one set with you. Guess I'll be busy. It seems like a good project while the weather is cold to makeup and braid eyes in these lines. It's something I can do on a sunday afternoon with a fire in the fireplace and an adult beverage. Thanks again, Chris
Lines eyes and lines
Last winter I finally learned how to splice braided line, after years of doing triple strand nylon. All my dock lines are always triple strand nylon as it has the best stretch properties is very strong and is easy to splice. It is also a lot less expensive than braided line. I use pieces of hose to protect against chafe on both the chock on the boat and on the cleat on the dock. This greatly saves the lines! I also use old lines as spares for hurricane season. Splicing braided line is not hard, just time consuming, I find the tools you buy stink and found the best tool is a coat hanger. The best place to buy line is at the defender warehouse where they always have remnants left over from spools and you can get great deals on them!!! I shouldn't give this secret away but what the (as Tom M. will get upset) $%#@*&!(" dave
Last winter I finally learned how to splice braided line, after years of doing triple strand nylon. All my dock lines are always triple strand nylon as it has the best stretch properties is very strong and is easy to splice. It is also a lot less expensive than braided line. I use pieces of hose to protect against chafe on both the chock on the boat and on the cleat on the dock. This greatly saves the lines! I also use old lines as spares for hurricane season. Splicing braided line is not hard, just time consuming, I find the tools you buy stink and found the best tool is a coat hanger. The best place to buy line is at the defender warehouse where they always have remnants left over from spools and you can get great deals on them!!! I shouldn't give this secret away but what the (as Tom M. will get upset) $%#@*&!(" dave
Defender warehouse sale
Isn't the Defender warehouse sale coming up soon. This would be a good time to buy rols of line.... Thanks, Chris
Isn't the Defender warehouse sale coming up soon. This would be a good time to buy rols of line.... Thanks, Chris
Hey Jim, What's my line anyway?
Feb.22,2001 Dear Chris and Jim, Did my head go around in a full circle when I wrote that first piece or what? Your right Jim, it is a lot of line and I'm the guy telling Chris not to go overboard buying the stuff! By the way the reason I recommend 4 springs and not two is because of storm weather docking where you can use them on both sides of the boat, or in slips where the current runs hard where they can steady the boat. If your tieing bow or stern to and running lines back to a post I would also use 4 springs, but I realize that alot of people use less, the slackers. Chris, on splicing start with the three strand laid line and do the fenders for practice. Go to a chandlery and buy a set of fids for splicing braided line - only buy steel fids, don't waste your money on plastic ones. They usually come with a good set of instructions on how to use them. Make sure the set includes a pusher. The rigger Brian Toss also makes a useful line of splicing tools, and videos on how to use them. He's out of Port Townsend, Washington and may have a web site but sorry I haven't his address. Splicing is a great winter project, it in fact is not hard, ( I can do an eye splice in braided line in about 40 minutes with one hand wrapped firmly around a scotch) and adds a nice professional finish to your boat. You do want to take it easy on the adult beverages starting out though otherwise everything turns into a macrame knot. Brian Pickton of BeneteauOwmers.net Aboard the Legend, Rodney Bay, St. Lucia
Feb.22,2001 Dear Chris and Jim, Did my head go around in a full circle when I wrote that first piece or what? Your right Jim, it is a lot of line and I'm the guy telling Chris not to go overboard buying the stuff! By the way the reason I recommend 4 springs and not two is because of storm weather docking where you can use them on both sides of the boat, or in slips where the current runs hard where they can steady the boat. If your tieing bow or stern to and running lines back to a post I would also use 4 springs, but I realize that alot of people use less, the slackers. Chris, on splicing start with the three strand laid line and do the fenders for practice. Go to a chandlery and buy a set of fids for splicing braided line - only buy steel fids, don't waste your money on plastic ones. They usually come with a good set of instructions on how to use them. Make sure the set includes a pusher. The rigger Brian Toss also makes a useful line of splicing tools, and videos on how to use them. He's out of Port Townsend, Washington and may have a web site but sorry I haven't his address. Splicing is a great winter project, it in fact is not hard, ( I can do an eye splice in braided line in about 40 minutes with one hand wrapped firmly around a scotch) and adds a nice professional finish to your boat. You do want to take it easy on the adult beverages starting out though otherwise everything turns into a macrame knot. Brian Pickton of BeneteauOwmers.net Aboard the Legend, Rodney Bay, St. Lucia
Re: renewing old line
Hi Chris, I forgot to mention in answer to your question that I tried renewing old line using the technique you suggest based on the advice of an alleged friend who claimed to have done it. I tried it with laid line and it came out looking like a fur ball the cat threw up, only bigger. She Who Must Be Obeyed nearly had kittens shen she saw the mess in the washer. Maybe the lines were too far gone when I tried it. My advice: use somebody else's machine. Fair winds, Brian Pickton of BeneteauOwners.net aboard The Legend, Rodney Bay, St. Lucia
Hi Chris, I forgot to mention in answer to your question that I tried renewing old line using the technique you suggest based on the advice of an alleged friend who claimed to have done it. I tried it with laid line and it came out looking like a fur ball the cat threw up, only bigger. She Who Must Be Obeyed nearly had kittens shen she saw the mess in the washer. Maybe the lines were too far gone when I tried it. My advice: use somebody else's machine. Fair winds, Brian Pickton of BeneteauOwners.net aboard The Legend, Rodney Bay, St. Lucia
Eye Splicing Tools - Brian try it!!
Brian, give it a try, give up those useless fids and pushers and all the rest of those expensive store bought "special" splicing tools. I use a metal coat hanger bent in half to snake it through the center of the core or the outer sheath and when you need to pull the outer sheath through the core instead of pushig it with a fid just use masking tape to tie the sheath to the coat hanger, snake it through the core and then pull the sheath thru. I did way too many of these splices last year when I built a series drogue using about 350 feet of braided line in pieces about 50 feet long and I eye spliced each end of the line. After many tries with store bought fids and pushers I found my coat hanger the best tool of all. Very easy with new line and a little practice, impossible with old line! Also very low stretch line like kevlar is a real problem when you try to bury the line and the outer sheath needs to expand to about twice the normal diameter, the low stretch properties make this tough, a good taper helps. dave
Brian, give it a try, give up those useless fids and pushers and all the rest of those expensive store bought "special" splicing tools. I use a metal coat hanger bent in half to snake it through the center of the core or the outer sheath and when you need to pull the outer sheath through the core instead of pushig it with a fid just use masking tape to tie the sheath to the coat hanger, snake it through the core and then pull the sheath thru. I did way too many of these splices last year when I built a series drogue using about 350 feet of braided line in pieces about 50 feet long and I eye spliced each end of the line. After many tries with store bought fids and pushers I found my coat hanger the best tool of all. Very easy with new line and a little practice, impossible with old line! Also very low stretch line like kevlar is a real problem when you try to bury the line and the outer sheath needs to expand to about twice the normal diameter, the low stretch properties make this tough, a good taper helps. dave
Splicing
You are never to old to learn the art of splicing line. I am amazed by the number of fellow sailers in my marina who have never tried to splice their own line. I derive satisfaction from a completed splice and enjoy stocking my bar with the proceeds of those donations received as result of my efforts on behalf of my fellow boaters.
You are never to old to learn the art of splicing line. I am amazed by the number of fellow sailers in my marina who have never tried to splice their own line. I derive satisfaction from a completed splice and enjoy stocking my bar with the proceeds of those donations received as result of my efforts on behalf of my fellow boaters.
Dave - What a great suggestion!
Feb. 23, 2001 Hey Dave, Your inspired ! I downloaded the suggestion and will use it on the next round of splicing I do. For years I've tried to think of some way to pull the cover and cores through each other but couldn't think how to do it. This is going to make the job a lot easier. What's really ironic is that we carry a straightend coat hanger for fishing things out from under the engine, in the bilge etc. and I always recommend people have one on board in the tool locker. Thanks for the tip Dave, it will definitely be put to good use. Fair winds, Brian Pickton of BeneteauOwners.net aboard The Legend, Rodney Bay, St. Lucia
Feb. 23, 2001 Hey Dave, Your inspired ! I downloaded the suggestion and will use it on the next round of splicing I do. For years I've tried to think of some way to pull the cover and cores through each other but couldn't think how to do it. This is going to make the job a lot easier. What's really ironic is that we carry a straightend coat hanger for fishing things out from under the engine, in the bilge etc. and I always recommend people have one on board in the tool locker. Thanks for the tip Dave, it will definitely be put to good use. Fair winds, Brian Pickton of BeneteauOwners.net aboard The Legend, Rodney Bay, St. Lucia
No Loops or Splices
Hi all, I prefer not to have any loops in the ends of my general purpose warps. This way they can be adjusted or even let go from either end when under tension. When coming alongside there is no need to identify which end to pass across and the catcher can make it up at the appropriate length first time. The wear comes on a slightly different point every time the line is made up to a cleat or bollard and this extends the life of the rope. I have noticed warps with loops wear more quickly at the 'nip'. Only the lines to my pontoon are permanent and these have a thimble in the spliced loop and are attached to the pontoon cleats using stainless shackles to handle the chafing. At the risk of offending 'Is it good seamanship to have loops on mooring lines?' Regards,
Hi all, I prefer not to have any loops in the ends of my general purpose warps. This way they can be adjusted or even let go from either end when under tension. When coming alongside there is no need to identify which end to pass across and the catcher can make it up at the appropriate length first time. The wear comes on a slightly different point every time the line is made up to a cleat or bollard and this extends the life of the rope. I have noticed warps with loops wear more quickly at the 'nip'. Only the lines to my pontoon are permanent and these have a thimble in the spliced loop and are attached to the pontoon cleats using stainless shackles to handle the chafing. At the risk of offending 'Is it good seamanship to have loops on mooring lines?' Regards,
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