Lines, and side stays

[gtg]

Hello!

I am the proud owner of a '74, 22' I would like to purchase a new main halyard and jib halyard. I noticed some halyards have steel cable attached while others do not. My current jib and main halyards have the cable attached. Do I have to have the steel cable at the one end of the halyard?

Also, do I replace 45 year old shrouds? They are probably original? stays but show no signs of rust or kinks. The boat has lived on fresh water all its life, I believe.

My boom topper is rope and I believe it goes all the way to the top of the mast, should I upgrade it to steel cable?

Thank you for time.

 

[jssailem]

@gtg Welcome to the Forum. Congrats on your "new to you" sailboat. We both know the Hobbie as a fun toy to zib around the lake. Now you are getting into a new world. (Keep the Hobbie around. They are just way too much fun)

Generally, 45 year old shrouds need to be inspected. This is all the way, including the connections at the top of the mast, to the chainplates attaching the rig to the boat. Cracks, pit corrosion, loose connections, broken strands, rust in the swage fitting, cross threaded turnbuckles, gulling of turnbuckles, looseness etc. are the type of issues included. Now if your just going to take the boat out on Sunday afternoon in light breeze for short sails (kind of the way the grand ma drives her car to church) then you might be able to get by with no rig changes. If on the other hand your going to get race competitive and sail the boat to the edge and back in all kids of weather, including those days when all the sane sailors are up in the bar watching the weather and the wild sailors out of the water, then you are going to want to replace the rigging to be sure it does not come down on your head while you are having fun.

The wire/rope halyards are a way of dealing with old rope technology. The wire stopped the rope from stretching when you hauled the sail up by rope only and the stretch let it fall down a bit. The wire line is heavy. The new lines are light weight and they do not stretch like the old lines did. I switched to all line and dumped the wire/ ropes. Love the results. Such a switch has its issues. Specifically the sheave at the top of the mast. Your wire/rope sheave my have a groove in the center of the sheave for the wire (or may have worn a groove). You need to consider the size of the line. If you find the sheaves need replacement, then you want to get a sheave that is not grooved for wire. Here is a graphic that helps identify the selection of sheave/rope size.

 

[gtg]

@gtg Welcome to the Forum. Congrats on your "new to you" sailboat. We both know the Hobbie as a fun toy to zib around the lake. Now you are getting into a new world. (Keep the Hobbie around. They are just way too much fun)

Generally, 45 year old shrouds need to be inspected. This is all the way, including the connections at the top of the mast, to the chainplates attaching the rig to the boat. Cracks, pit corrosion, loose connections, broken strands, rust in the swage fitting, cross threaded turnbuckles, gulling of turnbuckles, looseness etc. are the type of issues included. Now if your just going to take the boat out on Sunday afternoon in light breeze for short sails (kind of the way the grand ma drives her car to church) then you might be able to get by with no rig changes. If on the other hand your going to get race competitive and sail the boat to the edge and back in all kids of weather, including those days when all the sane sailors are up in the bar watching the weather and the wild sailors out of the water, then you are going to want to replace the rigging to be sure it does not come down on your head while you are having fun.

The wire/rope halyards are a way of dealing with old rope technology. The wire stopped the rope from stretching when you hauled the sail up by rope only and the stretch let it fall down a bit. The wire line is heavy. The new lines are light weight and they do not stretch like the old lines did. I switched to all line and dumped the wire/ ropes. Love the results. Such a switch has its issues. Specifically the sheave at the top of the mast. Your wire/rope sheave my have a groove in the center of the sheave for the wire (or may have worn a groove). You need to consider the size of the line. If you find the sheaves need replacement, then you want to get a sheave that is not grooved for wire. Here is a graphic that helps identify the selection of sheave/rope size.

View attachment 169823

Great info! Did you replace your sheaves? Did you use 5/16 line on the original factory sheaves? Are the original sheaves some type of metal?

EDIT: just read Install Oversize Masthead Sheaves for More Halyard Choices and
Looks like I should stick to a new rope/cable halyard until I get new sheaves ... unless less you have a better story.

found this, original C22 model halyard and sheet lengths?
Perhaps replace the main halyard with 1/4" all rope, can a person climb the mast with 1/4" rope?


Backstory:
The jib halyard is up the mast and I plan to replace my main halyard with all rope(sta-set) before I go up the mast to retrieve the jib halyard. I plan check my sheaves while I'm up there and the shroud connections.

My deck has white plastic pulleys everywhere. My guess is the sheaves will we be white plastic. If they are plastic to begin with I should probably drop the mast and save myself a trip up the mast?

My other option to get the jib halyard down is by way of hook and time, then replace nothing. However, I do believe my jib shackle is on the opposite side of where my mast shackle would be with the hook. I am a half hour drive from my boat, purchasing new line and retrieving the jib halyard by hand seems my success rate would be higher and quicker. I do have experience climbing other masts in my past just not my new to me, old rope mast.

 

[Joe]

45 year standing rigging needs replacement....
To solve the halyard issue.... you can easily build your own "tapered" halyards where you use a 3/16 dyneema core with a 5/16 polyester cover over the back half that is actually handled and cleated. The 3/16 dyneema, such as Samson Amsteel, is a UV protected, non stretch single braid that is stronger than steel and very easy to splice. In the past I've taken an inexpensive polyester line, such as Samson LS, and used its core to fish the new dyneema line through. On the Samson website you'll find instructions on how to perform the simple "bury" splice that gives the halyard's transition taper from 5/16 to 3/16 a clean finish. You won't have to change the sheaves unless they are damaged.... most likely some lubrication will suffice.
On my Cat 27 I'll purchase 80 ft of amsteel, and 40 feet of the 5/16 cover line... You'll find that this will actually work out less, cost wise, than buying a pre built wire to rope halyard, or using larger diameter all rope line that may be too fat for smooth operation. You don't want 1/4 inch line, it's just not comfortable and if you use winches and cleats, or clutches, you may have match up issues.

In any event, dropping the mast for a thorough inspection of the masthead gear and the spreader brackets and tips would be a very good idea. At that time you can remove the rigging and have it duplicated after you've got some estimates from a couple of rigging services. The halyard sheaves should be ball bear

 

[jssailem]

GTG. What Joe Said:

In any event, dropping the mast for a thorough inspection of the masthead gear and the spreader brackets and tips would be a very good idea.

I would be leery of going up a mast with 45 year old rigging. Life is just too short. When you have the mast down you can do all of the work much much easier than hanging around 30plus feet in the air hoping nothing is amiss.

You have two options. If you have a line that fits the sheaves and the sheaves look to be in good shape (not cracked, spin smoothly etc.) then you can purchase line of the proper size. Some sheaves come with a narrow groove (for the wire) and a wide groove (for the rope). You can use the correct size rope on this sheave with no problem as long as the rope fits the width of the larger groove and the small groove is less than 20% of the line diameter. Sometimes the wire grove gets worn and the rope starts to fit inside of it. This is a menu for a fouled line. Then you must change the sheave if your want a smooth running halyard line.

While you are at it wash the sheave bearings and lubricate them. If steel bearings you will need something like Corrosion Block (Not WD40). If they are Delrin bearings then just use dish soap and water.

While you have the mast down you can check all of the items attached (lights, spreaders, shrouds, VHF Antenna etc..). Perhaps they will need replacement. Now is the time. Do not forget the base while you are at it.

Once you have fixed everything then in the future you can be confident that the mast is strong and will hold you as you ascend into the air.