Lightning!
Hi Steve,Let me first say I'm sorry to hear your boat was damaged by lightning. I'm glad you weren't injured.Now let me trade in the captain's hat for my work hat...Okay, lightning strikes are composed of several individual strokes. Each stroke lasts a few milliseconds with some tens of milliseconds between strokes. This is why lightning appears to flicker. Keep this in mind because I'll come back to it in a minute.First we have to talk about insulation resistance. What the heck is that? In simple terms, it's the insulation's ability to prevent the electricity flowing in the conductor from escaping (arcing) to another conductor (an adjacent wire, a metal object, fingers, etc.). For example, normal household wiring is typically rated for 600 volts. That means the insulation can withstand 600 volts without arcing through to something else. So what? Well, for extremely brief periods of time, the insulation will contain much larger applied voltages. Now back to our flickering. So it is likely that your boat's wiring was exposed to high voltages but only very briefly, a few milliseconds at best. Your wiring is quite possibly okay. So how can you be sure? You can have it checked with a megohm meter (sometimes called a "megger"). This is not to be confused with a volt/ohm-meter. But you will need two things; someone who owns a megger and someone with enough savvy to know how to use it.It is extremely probable that your electronics are "fried" as you suggest. This happens as a direct result of inductive coupling. (Oh, jeesh, there he goes using big words again.) When lightning strikes the ground, a tremendous amount of current flow takes place. This causes magnetic fields to be generated (look it up in your old physics book). As the magnetic field crosses a long thin conductor, it inductively couples and a current is generated (induced) in the conductor. If this conductor happens to be the wire connecting your transducer to the instrument head, guess what? As the man says, "ain't no rocket science in that question."Hang in there, we're almost done. Having investigated thousands of land-based lightning strikes, I can only recall a very few instances where the wiring was damaged except at termination points. Termination points are susceptible to arcing because of charge distribution per square inch of surface area. I know, knock of the science lessons. Okay, let it suffice to say that arcing causes melting. Check your termination points at the panel, at light bulbs, in-line connectors/fuses, and other areas for signs of melting. If you see them, chances are that a poor contact will exist. Poor contact = FIRE HAZARD!Sorry to be so long-winded Steve, but due to so much misinformation regarding lightning flying around, I want you to have the facts. A few more (Wow, won't this guy ever shut up?)... A typical lightning discharge produces 10-20 million volts with current flows in the 30,000+ ampere range (an average house uses a 200 ampere service). The leader channel heats to 50,000 degrees F (nearly five times the temperature of the surface of the sun). If lightning hits your boat directly, grounded or not, you WILL see significant damage to the electronics. Depending on how the strike enters the boat, you will probably NOT have damage to the wiring. My advice is to have the wiring checked professionally with the proper meter. DO NOT USE AN OHM-METER!!! An ohmmeter will not indicate if the insulation resistance of the wiring has been compromised. Check your termination points; if you see black soot deposits or melting, either clean or re-terminate the wiring.As far as professional advice to prevent a future occurrence; keep your lucky rabbit's foot aboard (if only it were that easy).Mark KisselRegional ManagerSenior Technical ConsultantLWG, Inc. (sometimes affectionately called "the lightning people")s/v KittiwakeH240