The other day I watched some fellows trying to settle a 26X on its trailer. They would pull it up to the V on the trailer, haul out, and it would settle down about a foot back. The three of us joggling the boat forward, or using the truck to go forward and brake suddenly did not help We found when we had a Mac, that it helped when hauling out if the ballast tank was empty, so we installed a pump to remove the water. Also, raised the winch and took the strap over the top of the winch. Both helped to pull the bow up and keep it snug with the V as the boat came out of the water. Depending on the ramp, a couple of crew members on the stern of the boat helped too. Does it even matter if it is forward on the trailer? What angle of ramp works with the trailers? We have used steep and shallow with the same results?
Lighten Ship when hauling out.
- Thread starter Pelicaneer
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I pump my ballast all the time !
With my 26D I pump the ballast tank all the time before attempting to get the boat on the trailer. I have a High Volume/Low Pressure Coleman 12VDC Inflator pump permanantly mounted. When I go to get the trailer, I start the Air-pump---by the time I have the trailer in position the boat is floating high and slips right onto the trailer...( the bubbles make for fun conversation...lake monsters and all that...)I also mounted a ring on the top of the winch stand and with an open sheeve pully and 150 feet of line I can just skid the boat from the dock into the V-neck while standing on the bow. Four foot tall guide-ons at the trailer rear help a bunch... Marty
With my 26D I pump the ballast tank all the time before attempting to get the boat on the trailer. I have a High Volume/Low Pressure Coleman 12VDC Inflator pump permanantly mounted. When I go to get the trailer, I start the Air-pump---by the time I have the trailer in position the boat is floating high and slips right onto the trailer...( the bubbles make for fun conversation...lake monsters and all that...)I also mounted a ring on the top of the winch stand and with an open sheeve pully and 150 feet of line I can just skid the boat from the dock into the V-neck while standing on the bow. Four foot tall guide-ons at the trailer rear help a bunch... Marty
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marshallh7
I've wrestled with that too.
I was interested in this thread. I've had the same problems loading our 26S. I've always had to pull up the ramp and drain the ballast, then back in the water again to get the empty boat up in the V where it should be. Seems to tow really crappy if I don't get the bow as high as possible. I've read about pumping air in the ballast chamber -- think I'll give it a try. I've also thought about turning my winch around so the winch strap comes over the top of the V to lift the bow a little. Thanks for the starting the thread and the one reply. Anyone else have any thoughts on this?
I was interested in this thread. I've had the same problems loading our 26S. I've always had to pull up the ramp and drain the ballast, then back in the water again to get the empty boat up in the V where it should be. Seems to tow really crappy if I don't get the bow as high as possible. I've read about pumping air in the ballast chamber -- think I'll give it a try. I've also thought about turning my winch around so the winch strap comes over the top of the V to lift the bow a little. Thanks for the starting the thread and the one reply. Anyone else have any thoughts on this?
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bodyfat2
trailer winch
I have the same problem with my Mac25. The boat pulls away when the trailer is hauled out. I think the winch design/mounting is too low as the bow tends to rise when the boat settles on the rails. I've tried having passengers at the stern to raise the bow when winching in but again, the mounting is too low and it pulls downward. By the way, I am replacing my winch. What poundage rating should I look for. I noticed that the original had only 1/2" nylon rope which cannot have more than a 350# rating??? thanks
I have the same problem with my Mac25. The boat pulls away when the trailer is hauled out. I think the winch design/mounting is too low as the bow tends to rise when the boat settles on the rails. I've tried having passengers at the stern to raise the bow when winching in but again, the mounting is too low and it pulls downward. By the way, I am replacing my winch. What poundage rating should I look for. I noticed that the original had only 1/2" nylon rope which cannot have more than a 350# rating??? thanks
It's Important!
It is very important to get the boat all the way forward. If you leave the boat back any several things happen. One you will have more weight behind the axel, causing a light tounge. this can make the trailer sway uncontrollably going down the road. Two if you stop fast the boat can start in motion on the trailer, it will hit the cable/strap hard enought to break it and then jump the trailer landing on the tow vehicle, not good!! Also make sure to secure the back of the boat to the trailer too. A line over the hull secured to the trailer on both sides works fine.
It is very important to get the boat all the way forward. If you leave the boat back any several things happen. One you will have more weight behind the axel, causing a light tounge. this can make the trailer sway uncontrollably going down the road. Two if you stop fast the boat can start in motion on the trailer, it will hit the cable/strap hard enought to break it and then jump the trailer landing on the tow vehicle, not good!! Also make sure to secure the back of the boat to the trailer too. A line over the hull secured to the trailer on both sides works fine.
How to pump the ballast tank !
Go to your local tire store and purchase a replacement valve stem- metal- it copmes with a gasket,nut, and valve cap....drill a hole in an appropriate position on the top side---near the original vent hole so you can feed the valve stem from the inside--put on the gasket/nut. Replace the end fitting on the COLEMAN PUMP with a fold over inflator type fitting from a tire inflator tire pump-to lock it on the valve stem--mount the low pressure pump-run wire to battery with a spst switch - or use aligator clips And YOUR'E done I left the valve stem in mine. Marty
Go to your local tire store and purchase a replacement valve stem- metal- it copmes with a gasket,nut, and valve cap....drill a hole in an appropriate position on the top side---near the original vent hole so you can feed the valve stem from the inside--put on the gasket/nut. Replace the end fitting on the COLEMAN PUMP with a fold over inflator type fitting from a tire inflator tire pump-to lock it on the valve stem--mount the low pressure pump-run wire to battery with a spst switch - or use aligator clips And YOUR'E done I left the valve stem in mine. Marty
Chain the boat to the Winch mount
fter winching the boat tight in; I have a length of chain with a pin shackle that I slip through the bow eye...it keeps the boat from sliding back more than a 1/2 inch. See my response on pumping out the ballast tank also Marty
fter winching the boat tight in; I have a length of chain with a pin shackle that I slip through the bow eye...it keeps the boat from sliding back more than a 1/2 inch. See my response on pumping out the ballast tank also Marty
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bodyfat2
Pelicaneer winch strap
I noticed you mentioned you took the strap over the top of the gear. How is that done? The reversal pin does not allow the stopping of the gear in the opposite direction of the original "crank". Is there some modification you did to the winch. Any help appreciated. Thanks
I noticed you mentioned you took the strap over the top of the gear. How is that done? The reversal pin does not allow the stopping of the gear in the opposite direction of the original "crank". Is there some modification you did to the winch. Any help appreciated. Thanks
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