I have owned a Hunter 336 for over 5 years now, and still have trouble knowing how to set the main in light air. I raced my 336 in a cruiser race this weekend, and got beat badly by 2 Hunter 27s. Wind was 0 to 4.5 knots. (lots of fun) The problem is the main does not fill in light air so that the battens give a mis-leading indcation of the main shape. Most times the battens will not even bend outward (forward), but remaind bowed aft. I have two levels of leach telltales I try to set by, but they do not always fly. Specifically, I am interested in ideas for setting the main on a close to broad reach range in the light air conditions. What about the traveler setting? Should the topping lift be applied to try and lift the boom (no boom kicker)? Thanks for any tips. Don
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Not the main
Your problem may be a wimpy jib. I just signed North Sails to replace my 100 on H320 with a 120 jib/genoa. Sales rep said they've had considerable re-sails of the jib on new Hunters and Beneateaus that come out of the factory underpowered.
Your problem may be a wimpy jib. I just signed North Sails to replace my 100 on H320 with a 120 jib/genoa. Sales rep said they've had considerable re-sails of the jib on new Hunters and Beneateaus that come out of the factory underpowered.
Whimpy jib
Deadline with all due repect you have a different sailplan than the 336. You cant put a genny on, it will overpower the rig. Our 110 jib fits. The main is the engine on the 336. Cheers
Deadline with all due repect you have a different sailplan than the 336. You cant put a genny on, it will overpower the rig. Our 110 jib fits. The main is the engine on the 336. Cheers
For reaching....
...with any boat there is nothing like an Akite. A code zero is perfect for up wind in light air and a code 2 or 3 for reaching. Don, you are absolutely right about full batten mains and misleading information. Induced shape from the full battens gives a false reading to sail shape particularly problematic in light air. If you have the ability to adjust the batten tension you should reduce it. If not try adding a complete row of telltales at the 2/3 position to make it easier to 'read' the air flow over the sail. Twist is the worst thing you can have in your main in light air. On a reach, drop the traveler and change to vang sheeting. Remove the twist which robs power form your sail and control the angle of attack with the traveler. Get rid of your topping lift, it is NOT a sail control. Invest in a solid vang like a Boomkicker.
...with any boat there is nothing like an Akite. A code zero is perfect for up wind in light air and a code 2 or 3 for reaching. Don, you are absolutely right about full batten mains and misleading information. Induced shape from the full battens gives a false reading to sail shape particularly problematic in light air. If you have the ability to adjust the batten tension you should reduce it. If not try adding a complete row of telltales at the 2/3 position to make it easier to 'read' the air flow over the sail. Twist is the worst thing you can have in your main in light air. On a reach, drop the traveler and change to vang sheeting. Remove the twist which robs power form your sail and control the angle of attack with the traveler. Get rid of your topping lift, it is NOT a sail control. Invest in a solid vang like a Boomkicker.
loose
Think in terms of a few basics. First, you have to keep an open leech. Reduce leech tension by easing the vang, and then ease the leech lines, and then EASE THE MAINSHEET. (Most folks strap their mains in light air; don't know why.) Think loose. Second, you have to move the draft aft. You do this by easing the halyard (and cunningham, if applicable.) Again, think loose. Third, you might think about getting a set of light-air battens, especially of this is a persistent problem. Once again, think loose. NOW you can start playing with the traveler/topping lift thing to induce more twist. But only if the slot (between the jib and main) calls for twist. Think loose. Five will get you one that easing the vang will solve 90% of your problems. Ultimately, it's not the battens, it's the trim.
Think in terms of a few basics. First, you have to keep an open leech. Reduce leech tension by easing the vang, and then ease the leech lines, and then EASE THE MAINSHEET. (Most folks strap their mains in light air; don't know why.) Think loose. Second, you have to move the draft aft. You do this by easing the halyard (and cunningham, if applicable.) Again, think loose. Third, you might think about getting a set of light-air battens, especially of this is a persistent problem. Once again, think loose. NOW you can start playing with the traveler/topping lift thing to induce more twist. But only if the slot (between the jib and main) calls for twist. Think loose. Five will get you one that easing the vang will solve 90% of your problems. Ultimately, it's not the battens, it's the trim.
As an active racer...
one thing that I didn't read in the posts was to set the outhaul tight to flatten the main at the foot. The idea in very light air (under 5 knots) is to have the main as flat as possible to prevent the air flow from stalling trying to get around a slightly full sail. Air flow creates "lift", driving the boat forward. Use undersized diameter (but high strength) jib sheets so it can take a better shape without the sheets dragging down the shape, especially off the wind, allowing it to fill. A light air jib helps too.
one thing that I didn't read in the posts was to set the outhaul tight to flatten the main at the foot. The idea in very light air (under 5 knots) is to have the main as flat as possible to prevent the air flow from stalling trying to get around a slightly full sail. Air flow creates "lift", driving the boat forward. Use undersized diameter (but high strength) jib sheets so it can take a better shape without the sheets dragging down the shape, especially off the wind, allowing it to fill. A light air jib helps too.
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