I need to pant the bottom of my C22. If the keel is dropped and all the weight is taken from the inside of the boat can it be lifted for a short time from the two cleats in the back and the two cleats and the stern in the front.
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I sure wouldn't
The bolts could fail, the cleats could fail and the fiberglass could fail. I believe those cleats are for mooring, not for lifting. Check the archives for how people have painted their C22 bottoms by propping them up off the trailer.
The bolts could fail, the cleats could fail and the fiberglass could fail. I believe those cleats are for mooring, not for lifting. Check the archives for how people have painted their C22 bottoms by propping them up off the trailer.
check the "mainsheet"
Not the one on your boat but the C22 Mag for the C22 assn. There was an artical from someone who rigged their boat for the very lift you are talking about. They cover the extensive reinforcements required. Did I mention REINFORCEMENTS? Even as they set it up I don't think one would want to work,or under, on a hull dancing on a wire. Good luck, Brian p.s. I did mine on stands and left the small squares for later
Not the one on your boat but the C22 Mag for the C22 assn. There was an artical from someone who rigged their boat for the very lift you are talking about. They cover the extensive reinforcements required. Did I mention REINFORCEMENTS? Even as they set it up I don't think one would want to work,or under, on a hull dancing on a wire. Good luck, Brian p.s. I did mine on stands and left the small squares for later
Lifting your Boat Safely
Walt: From what you have written, I believe that you must have something to attach the cleats to. As the others have written, I wouldn't recommend picking up your boat by the cleats, even if the plastic ones were replaced with metal ones, and they were backed-up with aluminum plates. I do lift my boat up. I have looked through the archives for you and found the link below that shows my boat lifted in my wife's dad's truck garage. Please open the photo shown at the bottom of that page. I have since purchased the web slings that I was asking about at the time I wrote that forum article, and they are OK. I would probably get the 4 inch ones if I were to buy them again, but the 3 inch ones that I bought do work fine. I still pad them with carpet to keep from scratching the hull, but don't use the 1/4 inch paneling that I used when we lifted the boat with chain. I have also bought 3, 1 ton winches to use to lift the boat. (My wife's dad already had a little 3 ton winch, and they had several giant winches that must weigh about 60 or 70 lbs. That's what I used when the photo was taken. You can see one in the rafters on the right side of the photo.) I bought the 3 new 1 ton winches at Harbor Freight because they are light and small and cheap. I actually didn't have to lift my boat this year, because the paint only needed touched-up. I now use only ablative paint. I have been in my boat when it was suspended as shown in the photo, and have, of course, been under it for hours, preparing it and painting it. Every component that I use to lift it has at least 1 ton tensile strength, so if the boat only weighs about 1 ton, I have a safety factor of 4. I don't recommend that you go any less than that, and also make sure that the building that you are connecting your winches to is adequate. You don't want to get crushed, or have your boat smashed if it falls when you have it suspended. I have picked my boat up as shown in the photo many times, so if you have any questions, just reply. Aldo
Walt: From what you have written, I believe that you must have something to attach the cleats to. As the others have written, I wouldn't recommend picking up your boat by the cleats, even if the plastic ones were replaced with metal ones, and they were backed-up with aluminum plates. I do lift my boat up. I have looked through the archives for you and found the link below that shows my boat lifted in my wife's dad's truck garage. Please open the photo shown at the bottom of that page. I have since purchased the web slings that I was asking about at the time I wrote that forum article, and they are OK. I would probably get the 4 inch ones if I were to buy them again, but the 3 inch ones that I bought do work fine. I still pad them with carpet to keep from scratching the hull, but don't use the 1/4 inch paneling that I used when we lifted the boat with chain. I have also bought 3, 1 ton winches to use to lift the boat. (My wife's dad already had a little 3 ton winch, and they had several giant winches that must weigh about 60 or 70 lbs. That's what I used when the photo was taken. You can see one in the rafters on the right side of the photo.) I bought the 3 new 1 ton winches at Harbor Freight because they are light and small and cheap. I actually didn't have to lift my boat this year, because the paint only needed touched-up. I now use only ablative paint. I have been in my boat when it was suspended as shown in the photo, and have, of course, been under it for hours, preparing it and painting it. Every component that I use to lift it has at least 1 ton tensile strength, so if the boat only weighs about 1 ton, I have a safety factor of 4. I don't recommend that you go any less than that, and also make sure that the building that you are connecting your winches to is adequate. You don't want to get crushed, or have your boat smashed if it falls when you have it suspended. I have picked my boat up as shown in the photo many times, so if you have any questions, just reply. Aldo
Lifting your boat (barely)
Hello Walt: My trailer is the bunk style. It has 4 sets of 2 self aligning bunk boards. 1980 C22. I lifted my boat a couple of inches 1 bunk board at a time in order to replace carpeting on the boards. At any bunk location, jack between the trailer frame & the bottom of the bunk board & the boat will lift leaving clearance at the the partner board. This is a slow process but the bunk boards can be removed one at a time. That location on the hull could be painted, the board replaced & the other locations jacked one at a time. Only tools needed are a hydraulic jack & some wooden blocking. Of course, on a trailer with fixed bunks, this can't be done. Regards, Bob B.
Hello Walt: My trailer is the bunk style. It has 4 sets of 2 self aligning bunk boards. 1980 C22. I lifted my boat a couple of inches 1 bunk board at a time in order to replace carpeting on the boards. At any bunk location, jack between the trailer frame & the bottom of the bunk board & the boat will lift leaving clearance at the the partner board. This is a slow process but the bunk boards can be removed one at a time. That location on the hull could be painted, the board replaced & the other locations jacked one at a time. Only tools needed are a hydraulic jack & some wooden blocking. Of course, on a trailer with fixed bunks, this can't be done. Regards, Bob B.
Lifting Boat
My trailer has 2 full length bunks and what I did was to lift the whole traler with a hydraulic auto floor jack up onto car stands to stabilize everything, Then I cut blocks of wood 2x8x8 and with several 4x4's I jacked the front of the boat high enough to slip 1 or 2 blocks between hull and bunks. Then to the aft end and repeated. You have to find the right spot to lift as the hull will flex under the weight of the whole boat. Spread the load and find a stronger part of the hull. When you have enough room to paint between the blocks, paint the hull and when redy, move the block to get at the remaining squares. Use care and don't lift to high all at once and its fairly easy. While I did this, I removed and refinished the keel, thats a differant story.
My trailer has 2 full length bunks and what I did was to lift the whole traler with a hydraulic auto floor jack up onto car stands to stabilize everything, Then I cut blocks of wood 2x8x8 and with several 4x4's I jacked the front of the boat high enough to slip 1 or 2 blocks between hull and bunks. Then to the aft end and repeated. You have to find the right spot to lift as the hull will flex under the weight of the whole boat. Spread the load and find a stronger part of the hull. When you have enough room to paint between the blocks, paint the hull and when redy, move the block to get at the remaining squares. Use care and don't lift to high all at once and its fairly easy. While I did this, I removed and refinished the keel, thats a differant story.
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