Lifting boat to replace keel cable

[Cincy020]

This spring I plan on replacing the keel cable and bottom painting under the trailer bunks. To do this, I plan on using the method where the tongue is lowered, transom supported, then the tongue jacked up to lift the transom. My question is, what is the best way to support the transom? I do not have any drums or boat stand, so I was thinking 2 stacks of cinder blocks with a 6x6 as a beam to support the transom. Does anyone else have luck with this method or recommend an alternative?

Thanks

 

[$tingy Sailor]

I've used that method before without problems, as have others here who will probably lend their suggestions too.

I cut a 4x4 lengthwise to the profile and angle of the bottom of the transom, stapled a strip of carpet to the profile, and sat that on top of a 4x6 across the block columns. Try to spread the weight across both sides of the columns, not entirely between them.

Support the boat within a few inches of the transom, not farther forward where the hull is weaker. Block the trailer wheels completely, leave the bow firmly in the V block with the winch tight, and the front of the bunks supporting the bow unless you also block it up there. Make sure nothing can push the block columns over.

Double-check everything and be careful.

 

[Cincy020]

I've used that method before without problems, as have others here who will probably lend their suggestions too.

I cut a 4x4 lengthwise to the profile and angle of the bottom of the transom, stapled a strip of carpet to the profile, and sat that on top of a 4x6 across the block columns. Try to spread the weight across both sides of the columns, not entirely between them.

Support the boat within a few inches of the transom, not farther forward where the hull is weaker. Block the trailer wheels completely, leave the bow firmly in the V block with the winch tight, and the front of the bunks supporting the bow unless you also block it up there. Make sure nothing can push the block columns over.

Thanks! I do plan on making alternating rows on the blocks, like Jenga I guess, but only 2 obviously, to make the columns more stable. Also plan to insert 2x6's between the boat and bunks once I get it up and am doing the replacement on the cable to keep the boat from falling should anything go wrong.

 

[$tingy Sailor]

Good point. I forgot to mention until after I replied that I too used rows of two blocks each in alternating orientations to create square columns.

I assume you already considered just putting 2x8 blocks between the bunks and the hull, paint around them, then move the blocks and paint the missed spots. It's less work but the spots can be noticeable if you care. And you shouldn't need to jack up the boat at all to replace the cable. Just sayin' in case you didn't know already.

 

[Cincy020]

I did not consider using the blocks. How do you go about doing that?

 

[whatcaneyedo]

I used sawhorses and scrap lumber to build two form fitting cradles.

 

[$tingy Sailor]

760 photos on my blog and I don't have one that shows that.

Following is an excerpt from Refinish your swing keel for best performance - Part 1: Removing that will post tomorrow morning. It's the first of a five-part series that will continue each week. That is, unless I inject a side topic or two in there.

I started by raising the four corners of the trailer up onto jack stands to make a stable platform. With the keel lowered onto the rear trailer rollers, I disconnected the keel winch cable. Then I placed a hydraulic jack under the other end of the keel, removed the keel hanger brackets, and lowered the front of the keel to rest on the front trailer rollers. The keel was completely separated from the hull at that point and resting entirely on the trailer.

Next, I alternately jacked the ends of the boat up a couple of inches at a time so that I could place 2x8 wood blocks between the hull and the bunk boards over each bunk post. While I did this, the keel side rollers and guides built into the trailer held the keel close to vertical with the help of a few lengths of 2x8 lumber as shims.

On the C-22, the best place to jack up the hull is directly in front of and behind the keel slot where the hull is stiffest. A length of 4x4 lumber between the jack and hull with a padded block on top works well.

Be sure to keep the weight of the hull evenly distributed between at least three points on the hull at all times. Keep everything level and plumb. Go slowly, double-check everything, and watch for shifting.

With the keel detached, the boat is about a quarter lighter. After a few blocks were stacked over each bunk, I had enough clearance for the keel to pass aft through the trunk slot in the hull.

 

[Cincy020]

StingySailor, thanks for the help. Got the boat lifted far enough off the trailer today to access the keel cable, but now I have another problem the clevis pin seems almost seized to the fork of the keel cable. It moves freely from the eyebolt on the keel. Anyone ever had this problem? I sprayed some WD-40 in it thinking it may loosen something up and it did not work

 

[$tingy Sailor]

There might be some corrosion, paint, or growies in there. Any chance it's a non-stainless steel clevis pin? That could do it. Are the sides of the fork bowed out and binding the pin or parallel? If bowed, you might be able to squeeze them back in line with vise grips and loosen the pin. If there's no visible evidence to go on, you might have to grab the cap end with the vise grips and work it until it comes free. Worst case, cut it off and install a new cable. If you planned to do so anyway, it's no loss.