I'm finding water in the navstation shelf area. I know there is a stanchion right above it. No bolts show below. are they mounted to plates that are in the deck? Hope it's not wood! thanks Denise
- Status
found them
behind moldy mildewy carpet! 2 are accessable 2 are above the edge of the ceiling need a special wrench or a 90 degree bent 7/16 wrench. it was definately leaking over the nav station and shore power wiring. sure is a quiet forum here... Maybe bigger Odays never have problems? ;D Denise
behind moldy mildewy carpet! 2 are accessable 2 are above the edge of the ceiling need a special wrench or a 90 degree bent 7/16 wrench. it was definately leaking over the nav station and shore power wiring. sure is a quiet forum here... Maybe bigger Odays never have problems? ;D Denise
I
used a ratchet socket with extension to reach the nuts, After the loosened I then used needle nose vise grips to hold the nut and went back on deck with the screw-driver to remove the bolt (would be easier if you have a second person). . . but had a hard time getting them back on again as I could only reach up with two fingers . . .
used a ratchet socket with extension to reach the nuts, After the loosened I then used needle nose vise grips to hold the nut and went back on deck with the screw-driver to remove the bolt (would be easier if you have a second person). . . but had a hard time getting them back on again as I could only reach up with two fingers . . .
we actually have a pair of those!
duh! and we were going just bend a 7/16 wrench at 90 dgrees. I think i'll try your way first! thanks!
duh! and we were going just bend a 7/16 wrench at 90 dgrees. I think i'll try your way first! thanks!
Future work
I plan on rebedding my stanchions this season. Let me know of complications you run into or share any advise. Thanks
I plan on rebedding my stanchions this season. Let me know of complications you run into or share any advise. Thanks
still to do
I still have the forward stanchions to reseat. . . the reason I haven't done them yet is I think that I have to remove the selves on each side of the V-birth as I can't get my hand up to the nuts . . . nuts! I hate that . .
I still have the forward stanchions to reseat. . . the reason I haven't done them yet is I think that I have to remove the selves on each side of the V-birth as I can't get my hand up to the nuts . . . nuts! I hate that . .
Rebedding Stanchions
Don't forget to enlarge the holes, fill with epoxy and redrill the correct size. If you can dig out as much wood core around the drilled hole as possible with a bent nail or simmilar device placed in a drill all the better. Be sure that the wood is dry. Charlie See. It's not as quite as you think. Just slow to respond.
Don't forget to enlarge the holes, fill with epoxy and redrill the correct size. If you can dig out as much wood core around the drilled hole as possible with a bent nail or simmilar device placed in a drill all the better. Be sure that the wood is dry. Charlie See. It's not as quite as you think. Just slow to respond.
Stanchions
Denise - Charlie's post is right on. The stanchions are subject to a lot of loading and have to be anchored securely, as in thru-bolting rather than just being fastened with screws. You said the ends of the bolts were hidden behind some mouldy carpet, so water is definitely getting in, and it is probably causing rot in the core material. I would suggest that, in addition to the epoxy treatment that Charlie recommends, you look at the way the inside ends of the stanchion bolts are backed up. Just having flat washeres here isn't strong enough; you should have a plate of 1/4" thick aluminum or piece of 3/4" hardwood or marine ply that is significantly larger than the base plate of the stanchion. On my boat, the plywood that backed up the stanchion was getting black as water was starting to rot it: I replaced with marine ply saturated with epoxy, and bonded to the underside of the deck with a thickened epoxy mixture, having previously drilled a 3/4" hole thru the deck for each stanchion bolt. Once the backing had bonded, I filled the holes in the deck with thickened epoxy, let cure, then drilled the 1/4" holes required for the stanchion bolts. The stanchions & bolts were sealed with 3M5200 and replaced, with a stainless fender washer ( an oversize flat washer ) and a nut with a nylon insert in it. The nylon acts as a lock so the nut won't loosen in time. All this is MUCH easier to say than to do, as access to the stanchion bolts runs from bad to near impossible ( so far, I've only done the ones flanking the cockpit, where there's a boarding gate in the lifelines ) but it's important to get them all done, both from the perspective of safety and to prevent rot in the boat. In some places and some boats parts of the cabin liner will have to be cut to provide access, which presents another repair problem, and most of the work has to be done overhead. Not nice but necessary.
Denise - Charlie's post is right on. The stanchions are subject to a lot of loading and have to be anchored securely, as in thru-bolting rather than just being fastened with screws. You said the ends of the bolts were hidden behind some mouldy carpet, so water is definitely getting in, and it is probably causing rot in the core material. I would suggest that, in addition to the epoxy treatment that Charlie recommends, you look at the way the inside ends of the stanchion bolts are backed up. Just having flat washeres here isn't strong enough; you should have a plate of 1/4" thick aluminum or piece of 3/4" hardwood or marine ply that is significantly larger than the base plate of the stanchion. On my boat, the plywood that backed up the stanchion was getting black as water was starting to rot it: I replaced with marine ply saturated with epoxy, and bonded to the underside of the deck with a thickened epoxy mixture, having previously drilled a 3/4" hole thru the deck for each stanchion bolt. Once the backing had bonded, I filled the holes in the deck with thickened epoxy, let cure, then drilled the 1/4" holes required for the stanchion bolts. The stanchions & bolts were sealed with 3M5200 and replaced, with a stainless fender washer ( an oversize flat washer ) and a nut with a nylon insert in it. The nylon acts as a lock so the nut won't loosen in time. All this is MUCH easier to say than to do, as access to the stanchion bolts runs from bad to near impossible ( so far, I've only done the ones flanking the cockpit, where there's a boarding gate in the lifelines ) but it's important to get them all done, both from the perspective of safety and to prevent rot in the boat. In some places and some boats parts of the cabin liner will have to be cut to provide access, which presents another repair problem, and most of the work has to be done overhead. Not nice but necessary.
Backing
I was thinking of cutting a slot in the headliner so that I could push a aluminum plate in place for all four bolts to pass through. as two bolts are in the headlinner and two are behind it.
I was thinking of cutting a slot in the headliner so that I could push a aluminum plate in place for all four bolts to pass through. as two bolts are in the headlinner and two are behind it.
Backing plates
You guys have given me an idea *! When I restored my old Chris Craft Connie 20 years ago I found they installed wood blocking with backing plates that were screwes to the blocks to keep them in place and I think they were either threaded or nuts welded cause I was able to remove the stantion bolts without another person below. Soooooooo I'm thinking after I access the original nuts above the fiberglass liner and remove the stantion I'll make backing plates cause right now there are just washers and it will make reinstallation a breeze and a stronger stantion. I hope I can get the plate in place cause it seems like its right up against the side of the hull where the screws for the rub rail might keep me from installing a full size plate with 4 nuts,I'll look today when I'm at the boat
You guys have given me an idea *! When I restored my old Chris Craft Connie 20 years ago I found they installed wood blocking with backing plates that were screwes to the blocks to keep them in place and I think they were either threaded or nuts welded cause I was able to remove the stantion bolts without another person below. Soooooooo I'm thinking after I access the original nuts above the fiberglass liner and remove the stantion I'll make backing plates cause right now there are just washers and it will make reinstallation a breeze and a stronger stantion. I hope I can get the plate in place cause it seems like its right up against the side of the hull where the screws for the rub rail might keep me from installing a full size plate with 4 nuts,I'll look today when I'm at the boat
- Status