Lifeline Replacement

Sep 22, 2021
284
Hunter 41AC 0 Portland, OR
I'm in the process of gathering data to perform lifeline replacement on our 2007 H41AC. It currently has (probably the original) 3/16" stainless wire rope covered in vinyl (making it about 5/16" thick). I was planning to replace the lifelines with bare stainless and the rigging shops that I have consulted are recommending using 3/16" bare stainless. I'm somewhat concerned about the look and feel of 3/16" lifelines in place of the effectively 5/16" lines.

I'd be interested to hear opinions and assessments from anyone that has installed 3/16" bare stainless lifelines.
 
Oct 6, 2007
1,119
Hunter H30 1982 Chicago IL
I replaced my coated lifelines with 3/16” diameter uncoated about ten years ago. I like the look of the bare lifelines better and I don’t have to spend time cleaning white vinyl. No complaints about feel, but I‘m not in the habit of leaning on them or using them as hand holds in any way. Best thing is no worries about corrosion underneath the vinyl.
 

jssailem

SBO Weather and Forecasting Forum Jim & John
Oct 22, 2014
22,768
CAL 35 Cruiser #21 moored EVERETT WA
Try out the various sizes. Find one that you like. I used 1/4” (4/16). I like the extra thickness feel as I grab the line and pull up to stick my feet to the deck.
Note some boats have 3/4 to 1”pipe for like lines. There are really not rules limiting how you choose safety on your boat ( as long as your not open water racing). If racing then you need to follow the rule specified in your class.
 
Sep 22, 2021
284
Hunter 41AC 0 Portland, OR
@jssailem: DId you have your lifelines made at a West Marine in the Seattle area? I requested a quote from Northwest Rigging in Anacortes so I might as well get quotes from other Seattle-area riggers. I haven't yet found one in the Portland area. I was hopeful about West Coast Wire Rope in Portland but they referred me to Northwest Rigging. The West Marine in Portland doesn't have a rigging shop so that's a no-go, too.
 
Jan 11, 2014
12,719
Sabre 362 113 Fair Haven, NY
I considered it, yes. My concern with it is the shorter lifespan compared to bare stainless.
Good choice. Stainless is forever. If weight is a concern, meaning you are racing and want every possible advantage, then dyneema might be a good choice. Chafe is an issue and making certain the stanchions are free of chafe producing edges is an important detail.
 
Jun 11, 2004
1,733
Oday 31 Redondo Beach
I considered it, yes. My concern with it is the shorter lifespan compared to bare stainless.
Good choice. Stainless is forever. If weight is a concern, meaning you are racing and want every possible advantage, then dyneema might be a good choice. Chafe is an issue and making certain the stanchions are free of chafe producing edges is an important detail.
Nothing is forever. Otherwise the stainless lifelines wouldn't need replacing. Lifespan is certainly a matter to compare and consider.

Even if 5/16" dyneema lost half of its rated strength it would still be stronger than new 1/4" stainless.

Chafe can be dealt with and minimized.

Not trying to sway anyones opinion. Just putting it out there that dyneema can be a good choice for lifelines.
 
Mar 26, 2011
3,671
Corsair F-24 MK I Deale, MD
I considered it, yes. My concern with it is the shorter lifespan compared to bare stainless.
If you use 5/16" Dyneema and did it right, the life expectancy is VERY long, in excess of 15 years.

Feel also matters. Your call. I've had both and like both. My current boat has a mix.

Stainless is nice.
 
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Apr 8, 2010
2,090
Ericson Yachts Olson 34 28400 Portland OR
@jssailem: DId you have your lifelines made at a West Marine in the Seattle area? I requested a quote from Northwest Rigging in Anacortes so I might as well get quotes from other Seattle-area riggers. I haven't yet found one in the Portland area. I was hopeful about West Coast Wire Rope in Portland but they referred me to Northwest Rigging. The West Marine in Portland doesn't have a rigging shop so that's a no-go, too.
You might want to check with: Rigging Products and services
They build sailboat rigging including lifelines.
I also know of an independent rigger in the Portland area; he is busy enough that he does not advertise, so message me for his contact info.
I agree with others here that lifeline wire and fittings should be replaced just like standing rigging. On a scheduled basis, not usually beyond 20 years.

Also-- there is a lengthly article in the current GOB about synthetic lifelines. It's a pretty good overview, IMHO.
 
Oct 26, 2008
6,240
Catalina 320 Barnegat, NJ
I switched from vinyl-covered to bare stainless on my previous boat and increased the diameter for snugger fit through the stanchions and better feel. I wouldn't go with 3/16". I don't recall if I chose 1/4" or 5/16" but I think John's choice for 1/4" seems about right. I haven't made that switch on our current boat, yet ... still have the vinyl-covered life lines.
 
Feb 21, 2013
4,638
Hunter 46 Point Richmond, CA
I replaced the coated lifelines on my Hunter 46 with Suncor 316 stainless steel 3/16" kit........very happy with the ease of installation and NO swaging.
 
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Mar 30, 2013
700
Allied Seawind MK II 32' Oologah Lake, Oklahoma
Another benefit to Dyneema is that you can do it all yourself with no special tools. A few "Splice-line" fittings a couple of SS thimbles and you're golden.
 
Apr 11, 2020
782
MacGregor 26s Scott's Landing, Grapevine TX
Another benefit to Dyneema is that you can do it all yourself with no special tools. A few "Splice-line" fittings a couple of SS thimbles and you're golden.
That was my experience as well. With my boat, swaging would have to be done on the boat which would mean buying a swaging tool or hiring a rigger. I'm glad I did since I did a mod on my stanchions that required removal and reinstallation of the lifelines. Another reason I went with Dyneema was the feel.
 
Mar 26, 2011
3,671
Corsair F-24 MK I Deale, MD
Just to point out the obvious.

The limiting factor in SS size is passing the swages through the stanchions. The same factor applies to Dyneema if you have them made, but not if you splice them on-site. However, if you want chafe guards on the stanchions, that limits Dyneema size.

Another choice is WR2, which is available in 7mm, requires no chafe guards, and is VERY durable.

Finally, there is little need for larger diameter on the lower lifeline, through you seldom see people use two different diameters. In part, this is because racers also wear out the lower line by hanging rail meat off it.