The vinyl covers on my old lifelines are starting to look a bit shabby , I was considering cutting the vinyl off , thinking it may brighten them up. Overall condition still seems sound , probably will replace them this winter. Has anyone attempted this ?
Lifeline coatings ...
- Thread starter C22BC
- Start date
I did it when my B323 was but a year or two old. Lay a knife blade at a low angle on the SS. Hold the blade on both sides of the LL. You would do this as if you had a draw knife. Pull the blade toward you, keeping a feel that the blade is riding the SS. Easily done, and I'm glad I did it early on.
NotCook
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- Dec 29, 2008
- 806
We were dinged on two surveys for having vinyl covered wire lifelines. Each told us to replace them with bare wire rope. We eventually did. The issue is potential hidden corrosion, I believe. I wouldn't re-cover them with anything. Ours are now several years old, and still look like new. I'm wondering if wiping them with NEVR-DULL would be beneficial, but other than that, we haven't seen the need to do anything to them.
Some offshore racing organizations forbid coated life lines. Hidden corrosion. Same reason vinyl coated anchor chains should be outlawed.
"Outlawed"???
That seems a bit extreme...
I'd hate to be weighing anchor in some secluded bay, and have the coasties zoom in on their rubber rafts 50cals a showing, lights blazing, and horn sounding "No body Move" " Your under arrest for having vinyl coated chain"..
How could I explain it to the kids..??
That seems a bit extreme...
I'd hate to be weighing anchor in some secluded bay, and have the coasties zoom in on their rubber rafts 50cals a showing, lights blazing, and horn sounding "No body Move" " Your under arrest for having vinyl coated chain"..
How could I explain it to the kids..??
Racing aside: the reason life lines are coated is to prevent getting snagged on broken strands. Thats why you should cover them with something when leasurely sailing. Chief
If the lifelines have broken strands I think I'd want to know about and consider replacement. Granted they'd probably still be strong enough with a few bad strands but that seems like it could be a sign of a more significant corrosion issue.
Davida sailor26: I didn't say I wouldn't replace them I just don't like exposed dangerous problems. My present lines are showing minor rust and need to address that. How do you want to address this? Use your grandkids for a blood test? Get real. Chief
Don't just consider replacement...REPLACE. A broken strand will do a number on your hand, sheets, and sails if any of these come in contact. Same goes with shrouds and stays.
Email I just got from Practical Sailor:
It’s been almost five years since your original article on synthetic lifelines (“Long-term test Evaluates Synthetic Lifelines,” Practical Sailor, September 2012). Since my coated lifelines are due for replacement, I’m curious about long-term observations. That said, I plan on going up a size or two from the recommended numbers for an extra safety margin: 6 millimeters rather than 5 millimeters. I’m still looking into manufacturers and products because I just learned how easy splicing 12-strand can be, but I’m pretty sure almost any of them will be better than the plastic-covered stainless-steel wire, of unknown vintage, that’s on the boat now.
Greg Heron
1969 Cal 29 Happy Hour
Marina del Rey, CA
The lifelines in our test will be retired this year and tested for residual strength. They appear in good shape and we suspect there is still plenty of strength in them. Most manufacturers who we’ve spoken with suggest retiring Dyneema SK-75 (the material we are testing) after eight years, but this can vary. We would double-check this with your vendor. It is important to note that as of 2016, World Sailing (formerly ISAF) and US Sailing no longer allow fiber lifelines (vinyl-coated stainless-steel lifelines have been prohibited for years). The only acceptable material is uncoated stainless-steel (for easy inspection). From what we were told, there just wasn’t enough data for safety-conscious countries in Europe to endorse fiber lifelines, and US Sailing is following World Sailing’s lead. Our own field tester is switching back to coated stainless, not because of safety concerns, but primarily because he prefers the “feel” of the coated vinyl lifeline. One thing we noted is that the Dyneema lifeline does tend to loosen over time, so be sure to use leave enough room for re-tensioning.
It’s been almost five years since your original article on synthetic lifelines (“Long-term test Evaluates Synthetic Lifelines,” Practical Sailor, September 2012). Since my coated lifelines are due for replacement, I’m curious about long-term observations. That said, I plan on going up a size or two from the recommended numbers for an extra safety margin: 6 millimeters rather than 5 millimeters. I’m still looking into manufacturers and products because I just learned how easy splicing 12-strand can be, but I’m pretty sure almost any of them will be better than the plastic-covered stainless-steel wire, of unknown vintage, that’s on the boat now.
Greg Heron
1969 Cal 29 Happy Hour
Marina del Rey, CA
The lifelines in our test will be retired this year and tested for residual strength. They appear in good shape and we suspect there is still plenty of strength in them. Most manufacturers who we’ve spoken with suggest retiring Dyneema SK-75 (the material we are testing) after eight years, but this can vary. We would double-check this with your vendor. It is important to note that as of 2016, World Sailing (formerly ISAF) and US Sailing no longer allow fiber lifelines (vinyl-coated stainless-steel lifelines have been prohibited for years). The only acceptable material is uncoated stainless-steel (for easy inspection). From what we were told, there just wasn’t enough data for safety-conscious countries in Europe to endorse fiber lifelines, and US Sailing is following World Sailing’s lead. Our own field tester is switching back to coated stainless, not because of safety concerns, but primarily because he prefers the “feel” of the coated vinyl lifeline. One thing we noted is that the Dyneema lifeline does tend to loosen over time, so be sure to use leave enough room for re-tensioning.
jssailem
SBO Weather and Forecasting Forum Jim & John
- Oct 22, 2014
- 23,139
As usual... Fact fiction and opinion is the norm.
Opinion.. I chose to replace the vinyl coated lifelines last summer. And selected 316 SS from the Seattle WM store. The cost $660 complete. Double lines on a 35 ft boat. Two gates. Chose to make the gates out of dyneema with pelican hook latches. Had to buy the special Johnson Hook for dyneema line. Liked the look and feel of the gate. Had to use a buried long splice on the line. The splices from each end meet together in the middle of the gate. The bare ss line was based on comparative costs, availability of service, the proper equipment to make the lines, and the longevity of Bare 316SS when compared to the alternative choices.
On review of options
Cruisers can choose anything they want or go without. Racers must review the rules for their race and select from the options available in the rules. Open ocean rules specify Bare SS for the most part.
As always it is your boat and you get to decide what is best for you. What a country....
Opinion.. I chose to replace the vinyl coated lifelines last summer. And selected 316 SS from the Seattle WM store. The cost $660 complete. Double lines on a 35 ft boat. Two gates. Chose to make the gates out of dyneema with pelican hook latches. Had to buy the special Johnson Hook for dyneema line. Liked the look and feel of the gate. Had to use a buried long splice on the line. The splices from each end meet together in the middle of the gate. The bare ss line was based on comparative costs, availability of service, the proper equipment to make the lines, and the longevity of Bare 316SS when compared to the alternative choices.
On review of options
- Dyneema and 316SS are rated to be the same in strength but you can use a smaller diameter dyneema line. Dyneema is lighter in weight. Costs more than 316SS can be DYI if you are good with splices. Dyneema is vulnerable to chafe and UV damage. Will neeed to be monitored and changed should you see color change, chafe or damage during regular inspections. Cost are higher in part due to the special fittings needed to attach the ends and and repair/replacement of any stanchions that have rough or sharp holes that could cut/chafe the lifeline.
- 316SS bare line. While you can make your own, the most secure method of swaging the fittings is with a hydraulic roll press machine. The machines are usually cost more than the average sailor wants to spend on a project they may only do once every 10 or so years. Finding one to borrow or paying for it to be done is most practical. I found a deal by shopping and finding a source that wanted the work. Took 8 days from order to completion. It is best a winter job. Shopping at the start of the season you'll likely find 6-8 weeks wait at the best. 316SS is long life. Bare means the SS will be well oxygenated. SS is vulnerable to rust when exposed to water in a confined no oxygen environ. Given the chance SS will rust from the inside out. Places where Bare SS is vulnerable is the swaged parts. A reason for the use of the commercial roll machine. It compresses the material into a solid cold welded fitting. Limiting the opportunity/environ for rust. Because the material is exposed inspection is simpler. As was stated, beware of the strand that is broken. Commonly known as MEAT HOOKS. There appearance means the strand is compromised. Not to the breaking stage, but weakened and that lines is a candidate for prompt replacement. They Are Lifelines folks.
- VinylCoated Stainless Lifelines. They do look and feel pretty when they are new. But what is hidden behind the vinyl is the issue. Sometimes you will find 304SS not 316SS. Sometimes lower grades. These show themselves by leaving a rust stain on the vinyl or your deck. The appearance of rust is a sign that the integrity of the wire beneath the vinyl is compromised. We see boats with sad lifelines in every marina. Rust at the fittings, broken vinyl at the stanchions, rust in the middle of the line run where the vinyl is cracked. No matter what wire was used, when rust appears the line needs a serious inspection and likely replacement.
Cruisers can choose anything they want or go without. Racers must review the rules for their race and select from the options available in the rules. Open ocean rules specify Bare SS for the most part.
As always it is your boat and you get to decide what is best for you. What a country....
jssailem
SBO Weather and Forecasting Forum Jim & John
- Oct 22, 2014
- 23,139