Lewmar/Simpson-Lawrence Windlass Failure

[AndyK]

My apologies for those that have already seen this thread on the mid-sized Hunters forum. I am reposting to a broader audience to see if anybody has the answers I seek.

The windlass on my 2004 Hunter 33 has failed me for the last time. It is the Anchorman Sprint 900 (pn 0043621108) aka Sprint Atlantic 'A'. I believe this windlass was in general usage by Hunter back in the 2004 timeframe. I have two issues:

1. I have removed the four nuts on the interior (V berth) and removed the deck hardware including the upper (deck-side) circlip. I expected the lower gearbox and motor to drop out at that point. I have some movement but the lower unit *will not* come off. I am missing something. Any suggestions?

2. I heard that the Lewmar V1-V3 series has the same mounting hole pattern. Anybody replace their Sprint Atlantic with this series? What did you replace it with?

I am resigned to replacing the windlass but some people may be interested in the failure modes I experienced:

1. Shaft, gearbox, motor alignment - My guess is this is due mostly to poor installation on Hunter's part. I was able to align them well enough to relieve the binding and get it working again. Occasionaly I have to go back and adjust things until it works again. Mostly a guessing game until I can get the gearbox and motor off and see the shaft angle.

2. (Deck-side) Seal failure resulting in seawater penetrating down into the gearbox. No amount of torque that I can apply will get any movement from the shaft. The shaft bearings have likely become corroded but I will not know for sure until I get the thing out and apart on my bench.

3. No response from the 12v motor. Verified all electricals are working (proper voltage to windlass motor). I would expect that even with a mis-algned shaft or frozen bearings the motor would at least try but I get nothing. Likely the brushes have worn out completely. From reviews of other threads it seems the best solution is to replace the motor with one that has replacable brushes. $$$

Andy

 

[Jim Seamans]

If you don't have the manual look here:
http://www.ayesail.net/sailing/Hunter/SimpsonLawrence/index.html

There is a c-clip in the bottom of the shaft that will allow you to pull the gypsy up and out of the gear box. Can't remember if you need to pull the key out with it.
I'm not at home to check, but there is a company in Florida that had all the parts for this unit...Rebuilt mine a few years back.

good luck

 

[AndyK]

If you don't have the manual look here:
http://www.ayesail.net/sailing/Hunter/SimpsonLawrence/index.html

There is a c-clip in the bottom of the shaft that will allow you to pull the gypsy up and out of the gear box. Can't remember if you need to pull the key out with it.
I'm not at home to check, but there is a company in Florida that had all the parts for this unit...Rebuilt mine a few years back.

good luck

Thanks. I am convinced I am missing a clip somewhere on the inside of the boat at the bottom of the shaft. Unfortunately the drawing in the manual does not show the bottom of the gearbox where the shaft emerges. That is where there must be a clip or holder of some sort. I am headed to the boat Saturday morning and will report back.

Andy

 

[onecoolair]

Simpson/Lawrence expert trouble shooter

Andy..... I had problems with my windless also. Fortunately I was able to get it replaced under warranty. I was very lucky!... It took the manufacture about three tries or was it four to solve issue. It was about 2006- 2007 so Its been awhile let me see what I can remember some of what the issues were. Original unit had mysterious heavy corrosion causing motor to burn up...Rusted??...Plus gear box was missing teeth??..... Second lasted about 2 months, gear box jammed and damaged motor. Third one did the same. In the end...They finally sent me a upgraded heaver duty larger newer motor model design and gear box that still fit the windless gypsy portion above deck. I never had to removed the above deck portion of windless....All work was done below deck laying on my back in v-birth... My contacts were out of florida contact "Trina Taylor" her email is <ttaylor@charlesaperry.com>....She put me in touch with Mike a Simpson/Lawrence expert trouble shooter extraordinaire ..... Mike and Trina worked very hard to help me..... Was very please with the finial results.:dance::dance::dance:

Best of Luck!

 

[AndyK]

Onecoolair - thanks for the help.

I finally got the entire Simpson-Lawrence Windlass out. The corrosion on the inside set of bearings (just above the gearbox) was so bad I had to use a gear puller to force the shaft up through the gearbox and past the gearbox. Given the motor is dead and all of the bearings are corroded beyond use I have elected to replace the whole setup with a Lewmar V2. That is going in this weekend...

Andy

 

[Rick486]

I had posted some time back on this suggesting that this windlass, and maybe many others, should be covered when not in use to keep salt water from infiltrating the bearings. A careful inspection of the drawings will show a direct path for water to enter the bearings by seeping down from the center top. An earlier post had identified the issue and I found the same condition on mine. I immediately made a sunbrella cover and haven't had a problem since. I disassemble the unit annually and it is fine now and thanks to the other post I avoided trouble with my unit.

 

[SVCarolena]

Andy - were you able to confirm that the V1 was a direct replacement? Our Simpson Lawrence 900 died last weekend and given its age and issues with parts availability, I'm thinking a new replacement makes more sense than trying to repair it.

 

[AndyK]

Andy - were you able to confirm that the V1 was a direct replacement? Our Simpson Lawrence 900 died last weekend and given its age and issues with parts availability, I'm thinking a new replacement makes more sense than trying to repair it.

The Lewmar V2 (not V1 as far as I know) was a pretty close replacement with the following notes:
- The through-hull hole is slightly larger. You will need an appropriately sized hole saw blade for your drill. I believe it is 3" but doublecheck the documents to be sure. I mounted a blank piece of plywood below deck to catch the guide bit of the hole saw. It helps to have two people for this.
- The mounting holes are slightly 'farther out' from the center of the hole. I used a larger drill bit in the existing holes and it all fit just fine. Ideally you would want deck material between the mounting bolt holes and the large hole the shaft goes through. There is a supporting collar on the inside that distributes the load from the mounting bolts so if not possible you will still have plenty of support.
- You will still use every wire from the SL windlass installation. As long as you reconnect everything to the Lewmar V2 it will work. Mine did on the second try! I had up and down reversed the first time.
- Important! Replace the breaker by your power switch with the one that comes with the V2. Mine had corroded from a half-a$$ed connection by Hunter. I am sure this contributed to my problems over the years. Impossible to see unless you pull the old one out.
- Finally - I used an angle grinder to cut out the piece of stainless steel allowing the V2 to become a feed-forward type of windlass. Others have noted that Lewmar sells this directly but I see little need. The standard V2 clearly is reinforced for this modification already with extra steel right where you would want it. A little polishing and it looks like it came that way.

The V2 works perfectly. It has more power than the SL did so I have higher confidence. Sea trials/Achnor Trials have gone smoothly!

Over the winter I am going to look for the low profile drum that I have heard might exist (it is not in Lewmar's docs). The standard V2 drum protrudes about an inch through the existing hole in the anchor well door.

Andy

 

[rfrye1]

I too am having an issue with my SL windlass on my '98 H376. I had the motor go out & replaced about 6 yrs ago. Last week, my windlass was was really dragging, kept popping breakers. I thought I was going to have to haul in 75' of chain by hand! I replaced the breakers last yr.
Anyway, I read with interest the DIY replacement of the Motor. I've looked at the set-up and the 4 bolts. I was thinking the R&R of the motor was just the bolts and wiring? Am I wrong?? Anyone else just replace the motor??

Also the cover to help avoid seawater is a great idea.

Thanks. Bob

 

[seadaddler]

Grease

I recently pulled my windlass to replace the seal and I replaced the bearing any way because I had it apart,I was getting some minor water dripping out the bottom of the windlass motor.
I did about every other year add grease down into the shaft and bearing from the top wit out really taking the windlass all apart,the drum has a offset winch handle hole to use to unscrew the drum and another screw to remove and than lift the top part a few inches and pack in grease down into the shaft.
When I did take apart my 07 H-36 las tyear it was easy and no corrison at all,the tech service in Fl said it was good that I grease once a year because most windlass are so corried that they are stuck from corrison.
Nick