Lewmar Friction lever replacement
- Thread starter gary16188
- Start date
I assume you can’t get the nose piece into the frame? If you can’t access from the other side you may be able to either purchase a nose piece extension (dependent on your rivet tool) or jury rig a temporary nose using a metal tube that just fits over the mandrel of the rivet. Something like steel brake tubing cut to length can work well.
Those deep-set pop rivets are a metric size, but you can use a near SAE size. I have a 1995 big (70) Lewmar hatch.
If one the rivets breaks in one hinge attachment the other(s) will soon follow.
First problem is getting a long-nose rivet puller to reach into the cast recess. Solved that with a couple of small ss nuts slid down over the rivet shank first, and then push the puller in tight.
Second problem is keeping deck water from seeping in around the new rivet. I seated the composite base in sealant and then drove new rivets. Seems to work, for several years, anyway.
Friend of mine told me has had to re-rivet every Lewmar hatch hinge on his boat, over time.
Problem may be we owners tend to tighten up the internal friction with our hex key so much that we exceed whatever (whimpy) stress level it was engineered for in the sanitary confines of their testing lab....
Or.... are you referring to the latch rather than the hinge?
Great hatch in every other way, but it does have that one design weakness.
If one the rivets breaks in one hinge attachment the other(s) will soon follow.
First problem is getting a long-nose rivet puller to reach into the cast recess. Solved that with a couple of small ss nuts slid down over the rivet shank first, and then push the puller in tight.
Second problem is keeping deck water from seeping in around the new rivet. I seated the composite base in sealant and then drove new rivets. Seems to work, for several years, anyway.
Friend of mine told me has had to re-rivet every Lewmar hatch hinge on his boat, over time.
Problem may be we owners tend to tighten up the internal friction with our hex key so much that we exceed whatever (whimpy) stress level it was engineered for in the sanitary confines of their testing lab....
Or.... are you referring to the latch rather than the hinge?
Great hatch in every other way, but it does have that one design weakness.
I am working on replacing the friction lever. I just ordered a heavy duty pop rivet gun. Thank you for the help...GaryThose deep-set pop rivets are a metric size, but you can use a near SAE size. I have a 1995 big (70) Lewmar hatch.
If one the rivets breaks in one hinge attachment the other(s) will soon follow.
First problem is getting a long-nose rivet puller to reach into the cast recess. Solved that with a couple of small ss nuts slid down over the rivet shank first, and then push the puller in tight.
Second problem is keeping deck water from seeping in around the new rivet. I seated the composite base in sealant and then drove new rivets. Seems to work, for several years, anyway.
Friend of mine told me has had to re-rivet every Lewmar hatch hinge on his boat, over time.
Problem may be we owners tend to tighten up the internal friction with our hex key so much that we exceed whatever (whimpy) stress level it was engineered for in the sanitary confines of their testing lab....
Or.... are you referring to the latch rather than the hinge?
Great hatch in every other way, but it does have that one design weakness.