Has anyone converted the Lewmar 44 winch to electric in their Hunter 376 or 380? Cost? Issues? Problems?
Thanks,
Dave
Thanks,
Dave
Lewmar Electric Winch Conversion in Hunter 376/380?
- Thread starter bigbrownpilot
- Start date
Electric winches
They use a lot of power a lot of 12 volt like 30A. 400watt. And the motors are big and have to be mounted just below winch and usually leek when it rains. Causes corrosion to electric motor and connections increases amps blows fuses and. If you race electric winches reduce your perf rating. But nice when they work. The reversible ones are really nice trim sails from seated position at the helm. Just like every thing else keep up on maintaince and you'll love them. And run at least a #8 wire to motors. And # 4. To controllers more if battery's not close to control.
They use a lot of power a lot of 12 volt like 30A. 400watt. And the motors are big and have to be mounted just below winch and usually leek when it rains. Causes corrosion to electric motor and connections increases amps blows fuses and. If you race electric winches reduce your perf rating. But nice when they work. The reversible ones are really nice trim sails from seated position at the helm. Just like every thing else keep up on maintaince and you'll love them. And run at least a #8 wire to motors. And # 4. To controllers more if battery's not close to control.
My H376 came with one installed at the factory. I couldn't imagine raising the huge main on a 376 without one. You will probably need to cover the motor where it protrudes in the aft cabin.
Go for it!
Go for it!
Our HV'36 came with one also. Power is really not an issues considering how long it is typically used.
If you don't have one you really do not know what you are missing.
If you don't have one you really do not know what you are missing.
I replaced my 376's Lewmar manual with the comparable Lewmar electric many years ago. No problem with leaks or electric drain. Worth every penny it cost. I also added a Strong Track to the mast.
It took a few hours but was not difficult. As I recall, where you put the switch matters because you can use that hole, if it is in the right place, to access one or two of the bolts that hold the motor inside the boat to tighten them. Otherwise the access from within the boat is difficult. Then you mount the switch.
If you are interested, I can go to the boat in about two weeks and take a picture. Send me an email thru this site with your email address and I'll mail the picture to you.
allan
It took a few hours but was not difficult. As I recall, where you put the switch matters because you can use that hole, if it is in the right place, to access one or two of the bolts that hold the motor inside the boat to tighten them. Otherwise the access from within the boat is difficult. Then you mount the switch.
If you are interested, I can go to the boat in about two weeks and take a picture. Send me an email thru this site with your email address and I'll mail the picture to you.
allan
We have a 376 & added an electric winch conversion kit to raise the main. Made a different boat for us. It was a labor intensive job but well worth the effort. I used #1 stranded copper all the way to the main battery bank.
If you need pics let me know.
S/V Hotel California
If you need pics let me know.
S/V Hotel California
Picture request too
I'd like pictures too. I'd appreciate them if you would. You can post them for everyone. If you don't want to do that I'll pm you with my email.
Thanks in advance
Dan
I'd like pictures too. I'd appreciate them if you would. You can post them for everyone. If you don't want to do that I'll pm you with my email.
Thanks in advance
Dan
Most excellent-- I see you are on a newer Hunter 38, but looks about the same. The Lewmar 44 is on the starboard side of the companionway on the 380, but probably about the same amount of effort. Looks like the carpentry was the most difficult part.
Thanks,
Dave
Thanks,
Dave
Rewarding Project
We converted our Lewmars to electric nine years ago and also used #1 wire. There have been no issues other that not being out of breath after raising the main. It's also convenient for gybes. I highly recomend the conversion.
We converted our Lewmars to electric nine years ago and also used #1 wire. There have been no issues other that not being out of breath after raising the main. It's also convenient for gybes. I highly recomend the conversion.
Did this on my 49
Fabulous uograde. Really helps with the main furling
I used 2/0 cable, and would not reccomend going smaller.
These motors take a lot of current.
I believe the lewmar specs for max stall current on the 46 is approx 200 amps.
What you need to do is look into current carrying capabilities of wiring, voltage drop for measured distances, etc.
At 12v, this can become critical.
What you want to do is run some string for the entire wiring route, and measure how much cable you'll need.
This wire is very expensive, and you don't want to mess this up.
Definitely measure twice, cut once.
I would reccomend Defender for the upgrade kit.
Best prices around.
I would also reccomend the ELS version of switch contactor instead of the straight solenoid.
The layout cutting pattern from lewmar for mounting this is very confusing.
Take your time, and be 100% certain before drilling the large motor hole.
For the cable, you must get the proper crimp ends, and ensure the holes in the crimps exactly match the motor & solenoid studs.
This job requires the exact correct parts, and planning is essential.
Find someone with the proper crimp tool, and rent, borrow, or get it somehow.
Don't try this job without the correct crimp tool
Good luck!
On my 49, I convertered rate port cabin top winch to electric.
Fabulous uograde. Really helps with the main furling
I used 2/0 cable, and would not reccomend going smaller.
These motors take a lot of current.
I believe the lewmar specs for max stall current on the 46 is approx 200 amps.
What you need to do is look into current carrying capabilities of wiring, voltage drop for measured distances, etc.
At 12v, this can become critical.
What you want to do is run some string for the entire wiring route, and measure how much cable you'll need.
This wire is very expensive, and you don't want to mess this up.
Definitely measure twice, cut once.
I would reccomend Defender for the upgrade kit.
Best prices around.
I would also reccomend the ELS version of switch contactor instead of the straight solenoid.
The layout cutting pattern from lewmar for mounting this is very confusing.
Take your time, and be 100% certain before drilling the large motor hole.
For the cable, you must get the proper crimp ends, and ensure the holes in the crimps exactly match the motor & solenoid studs.
This job requires the exact correct parts, and planning is essential.
Find someone with the proper crimp tool, and rent, borrow, or get it somehow.
Don't try this job without the correct crimp tool
Good luck!
Although its not the same as an electric winch, I have a Winchrite and have been very pleased with it. It handles the big main on my Hunter 40.5 easily with plenty of reserve to raise it several times. It has the added advantage that my wife can use it to trim the genoa and I can get a feel if something is binding since I am holding it. Its made getting the main up quick and easy and does not require any holes, extra wires, or worry about draining your battery. ( am not affiliated with the company but like the product and it is a viable option, at least for the interim until I can get around to converting my Lewmar 44, which I may never do now.)
Just a thought.
Just a thought.
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Not a bad thought at that-- we've talked about that as an alternative-- around 1/3 the price of an electric winch conversion. Thanks!
Just to elaborate
The posts on the motor will be one size, the relay another
Also, where you hook up to the battery , etc.
Very critical to match the lugs to the posts.
If you are oversized on the lugs, it's not going to make a secure connection.
It is possible to drill smaller lug sizes up higher, but a pain.
Once you've done your whole layout and figured wire lengths, then get the lugs all ordered to match components.
When you crimp the lugs onto the cable, heat shrink the lugs. It keeps corrosion out.
On the crimp lugs, there is a hole size. (1/4", 3/8", etc)
The posts on the motor will be one size, the relay another
Also, where you hook up to the battery , etc.
Very critical to match the lugs to the posts.
If you are oversized on the lugs, it's not going to make a secure connection.
It is possible to drill smaller lug sizes up higher, but a pain.
Once you've done your whole layout and figured wire lengths, then get the lugs all ordered to match components.
When you crimp the lugs onto the cable, heat shrink the lugs. It keeps corrosion out.
Thanks for the amplification, Art. Always helps to do it right the first time, especially when dealing with wiring!
Dave
Dave
Now that my wife and I are both suffering from rotator cuff issues, this is going to be a priority!
Try
Try a angled portable like below.
I was told by a 356 Hunter that uses a Milwaukee 8-1/2
right angle handle drill which he has is portable either 18 or 24 volt and him
and his wife can use it and his wife can use it to hoist him up the mast also.
Nick
Try a angled portable like below.
I was told by a 356 Hunter that uses a Milwaukee 8-1/2
right angle handle drill which he has is portable either 18 or 24 volt and him
and his wife can use it and his wife can use it to hoist him up the mast also.
Nick