OK ladies and gentlemen, here's the question. If your entire boat flooded and covered your battery and circuit breaker with oil (and salt water), how would you go about cleaning it. I want to make sure its clean and dry before I check to see that it still works.
Let the cleaning begin
- Thread starter Devian
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I think I would consider replacing the entire panel and breakers now before you start having problems.
I assume you have been able to get most of the water and floating oil out of your cabin and fixed whatever leak allowed this situation to happen in the first place.
You will need plenty of oil absorbent rags (napa, autozone wherever) and some de-greaser normally used for engine work; a few bilge booms would also help to soak up the oil in your bilge.
If the water level reached above your battery terminals (boxes?) they are likely shot as well and will need replacing before you try to start the engine. The same high water will likely have drained the oil from you engine and put water in your crank case. Neither of these situations is good.
I am not sure what type of engine you have (assuming inboard but unsure of gas or diesel) but you will want to get the water out of it ASAP and put in some rust inhibiting oil like Marvel Mystery Oil and crank it a few times to spread it around.
Your ignition wiring (gas) may be wet and need replacing as would spark plugs etc.
If it is a diesel you will need to drain any water out of the fuel system (perhaps the entire tank if it was under water also) and try starting it with clean fuel. Bleeding the system with clean fuel would also be advised before trying to turn it over after a flooding.
If you suspect that it will take some time to get the engine running it is a good idea to leave your raw water intake valve closed so you do not inadvertently add more water to the engine due to back flow into the cyliders. Open the sea cock only when the engine turns over and catches.
A good rule of thumb is to change the engine oil about 3 times after water has intruded into the oil reservoir. If you can get the engine started then let it heat up a bit (5 min.) which may help in the oil changing process. Once the oil is running clean and not milky after several oil changes then it is probably a good idea to let the engine heat up to disperse and rid itself of any remaining moisture.
Cleaning the cabin and sole (floor) and bilges will just be good old fashioned hard work. Some say Joy liquid soap is a good candidate for emulsifying and dealing with diesel spills. Probably works well with gas engines as well.
I write from the perspective of one who has nearly flooded his boat due to a (not so) slow leak of our stuffing box. We found about 6" of water above the sole in the cabin after leaving the boat for too long but were able to get our Atomic Bomb back in action after the above steps were done.
No problems since re-packing the stuffing box with Gore GFO packing (knock wood).
Which Pier 39 are you at?
Have fun.
You will need plenty of oil absorbent rags (napa, autozone wherever) and some de-greaser normally used for engine work; a few bilge booms would also help to soak up the oil in your bilge.
If the water level reached above your battery terminals (boxes?) they are likely shot as well and will need replacing before you try to start the engine. The same high water will likely have drained the oil from you engine and put water in your crank case. Neither of these situations is good.
I am not sure what type of engine you have (assuming inboard but unsure of gas or diesel) but you will want to get the water out of it ASAP and put in some rust inhibiting oil like Marvel Mystery Oil and crank it a few times to spread it around.
Your ignition wiring (gas) may be wet and need replacing as would spark plugs etc.
If it is a diesel you will need to drain any water out of the fuel system (perhaps the entire tank if it was under water also) and try starting it with clean fuel. Bleeding the system with clean fuel would also be advised before trying to turn it over after a flooding.
If you suspect that it will take some time to get the engine running it is a good idea to leave your raw water intake valve closed so you do not inadvertently add more water to the engine due to back flow into the cyliders. Open the sea cock only when the engine turns over and catches.
A good rule of thumb is to change the engine oil about 3 times after water has intruded into the oil reservoir. If you can get the engine started then let it heat up a bit (5 min.) which may help in the oil changing process. Once the oil is running clean and not milky after several oil changes then it is probably a good idea to let the engine heat up to disperse and rid itself of any remaining moisture.
Cleaning the cabin and sole (floor) and bilges will just be good old fashioned hard work. Some say Joy liquid soap is a good candidate for emulsifying and dealing with diesel spills. Probably works well with gas engines as well.
I write from the perspective of one who has nearly flooded his boat due to a (not so) slow leak of our stuffing box. We found about 6" of water above the sole in the cabin after leaving the boat for too long but were able to get our Atomic Bomb back in action after the above steps were done.
No problems since re-packing the stuffing box with Gore GFO packing (knock wood).
Which Pier 39 are you at?
Have fun.
I'm at Pier 39 San Francisco.
So I have an Atomic Four engine (not running but possibly fixable) and I'll do what I can to drain all the crap out of it. So far everything is somewhat dry, just oil residue on it. I have a wooden plug in the thru-hull and it seems to be holding well after a couple days (I can't afford to haul the boat out [student]). I'll try the joy though and the grease cleaner.
So I have an Atomic Four engine (not running but possibly fixable) and I'll do what I can to drain all the crap out of it. So far everything is somewhat dry, just oil residue on it. I have a wooden plug in the thru-hull and it seems to be holding well after a couple days (I can't afford to haul the boat out [student]). I'll try the joy though and the grease cleaner.
Are we to assume the engine was underwater? Then pull the spark plugs, squirt lots of oil in the holes and try to turn the engine over by hand. Very important to get the cylinder walls oiled. Pull the carb for a rebuild. Then drain the oil, change the filter, refill, and drain again. Add a new filter, new plugs, new plug wires, new condensor and points, and rebuilt carb. Any chance that water got into the fuel tank, fuel pump or line? If so then those have to be cleaned out also. I know that you are a lowly student(wish I was!) but you can save the engine for a lot less than the cost of a new one.
Wooden Plug???
Get overboard and stuff one in the opening of the one with the wooden plug. Then get back aboard, dry off and warm up, then pull the inner wood plug and get a hose on the barb and double clamp it. The hose doesn't have to connect to anything--just run it up vertically and fasten the upper end somehow.
That wooden plug you have in there now will absorb enough water to loosen and send the boat to the bottom again if you don't act now!
Get overboard and stuff one in the opening of the one with the wooden plug. Then get back aboard, dry off and warm up, then pull the inner wood plug and get a hose on the barb and double clamp it. The hose doesn't have to connect to anything--just run it up vertically and fasten the upper end somehow.
That wooden plug you have in there now will absorb enough water to loosen and send the boat to the bottom again if you don't act now!
Devian,
Since you have an Atomic 4 it is likely that the engine can be saved. They are hard to kill.
All good advice given here but I would also highly recommend you check in over at Moyer Marine's A4 forums. http://www.moyermarine.com/forums/index.php
You would be surprised how many A4 owners are competent DIY mechanics.
Good luck.
Since you have an Atomic 4 it is likely that the engine can be saved. They are hard to kill.
All good advice given here but I would also highly recommend you check in over at Moyer Marine's A4 forums. http://www.moyermarine.com/forums/index.php
You would be surprised how many A4 owners are competent DIY mechanics.
Good luck.
Sorry Don...
...but what are you saying? And besides that, the end of the wooden plug swells up and therefore won't fall out and you don't need to put one in from the outside.
...but what are you saying? And besides that, the end of the wooden plug swells up and therefore won't fall out and you don't need to put one in from the outside.
Bob...
you are correct that the plug will swell, initially. But the wood will also soften and loose its grip at the top of the opening. Being tapered, it does not have a large contact area to work with. Water pressure will eventually push it out, which is why I suggested an outside plug until the interior problem can be corrected.
you are correct that the plug will swell, initially. But the wood will also soften and loose its grip at the top of the opening. Being tapered, it does not have a large contact area to work with. Water pressure will eventually push it out, which is why I suggested an outside plug until the interior problem can be corrected.
Thanks Dan
That is good to know. I had no idea they would pop back out if installed from the inside.
Again, IMHO, this "student" needs to get his sailboat out of the water. He's asking for cheap fixes, that are temporary at best. He's got an environmental disaster waiting to happen. If he thinks he has a "fix it up boat", wait until he comes online again telling us all that the boat is at the bottom of pier 39, asking us "what should I do now?" Doesn't he care about the SF Bay, his marina, or himself? Dumb in my book.
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