Let me ask a stupid antifreeze winterizing question

[Rich Stidger]

I use RV type antifreeze ONLY in my holding tank and my air conditioning units. I DO NOT use it in my fresh water tanks or lines as I blow them clear.

Is there a good reason why automotive windshield washer fluid cannot be used in these systems instead of the much more expensive RV antifreeze? Both antifreeze solutions are good to -20F degrees which is fine for my area but the RV stuff is $3.50-4/gallon and the windshield antifreeze is under $1.50/gallon.

I realize that the difference is only $12 for six gallons, but why waste money needlessly?

 

[Peggie Hall HeadMistress]

Windshield washer fluid will damage the soft rubber parts in the toilet and break down hose resistance to odor permeation. Plus, if you read the instructions on the "pink stuff" it indicates how much dilution (you'll have some water left in your tank after you rinse it out (you DO intend to rinse it out very thoroughly, right?) will provide necessary protection against freezing...with windshield washer solvent, you'd just be guessing and hoping.

You COULD avoid using anything if you remove all the remaining water from the holding tank, disconnect the head intake line from the bowl and blow all the water out of the channel in the rim of the bowl...blow out the discharge line too. If there's no water in the system, nothing to freeze and expand to crack anything.

 

[Don S/V ILLusion]

most formulations contain methanol

Rich

As long as it is confimed only to the tank or other plastic parts, no problem but methanol will attack the hoses and gaskets. As long as the holding tank is pumped almost dry, the residual liquid has room to expand. The A/C should only require a gallon or less so no big deal there.

I did the whole boat, minus the engine, last year with less than 3 gallons.

 

[Maine Sail]

Just did...

Just did my boat last night and it took three gallons, not including the engine, which is different stuff, rated at -100 below with added rust inhibitors. Of course I by-pass the water heater and only suck the antifreeze into the fresh water pump and lines and I NEVER put it in my tanks.

For my holding tank I flush it clean then add some RV-50.

I have found that blowing the lines out on a boat can leave low spots that will still freeze and split so I now suck RV -50 antifreeze through the pipes..

Wal*Mart has RV antifreeze for $3.79 - $4.00 per gallon depending on the store..:dance: Last time I checked windshield washer fluid was about $1.50 - $2.00 per gallon. Is it worth destroying your toilet, macerator vanes or hoses for a $6.00 +/- total savings?? PS the RV stuff at Wal*Mart is -50 not -20..

Man, and I thought Ross was cheap...

 

[Rich Stidger]

Well that is the answer I was looking for. Now I know that the windshield solution is bad for the hoses and rubber parts. Of course it would be false economy to use it if these parts are at risk. I just had to ask though.

I did buy 6 gallons of the RV pink stuff at Tractor Supply Co at 3 for $10. Somehow I seem to use all six gallons. One of my toilet runs is probably 15 feet and I have no idea if there are low spots so I usually pump about 1.5-2 gallons into that head. The two A/C systems seem to take another 1.5-2 gallons and another 1/2 gallon for my second head and I am done. I do expect to have one gallon left over from the six.

Me, cheap? Probably. Just ask my wife. No, on second thought, don't ask her. She is not impartial.

 

[Maine Sail]

Me, cheap? Probably. Just ask my wife. No, on second thought, don't ask her. She is not impartial.

Don't ask mine either!!

 

[RAD]

I've got a question

Maine Sail said
"Of course I by-pass the water heater and only suck the antifreeze into the fresh water pump and lines and I NEVER put it in my tanks."

I replaced my water tank this summer and do not want to put the pink stuff in it either,last year I found a way to get the whole system antifreezed with 3 gals but I was able to lift the old water tank a little to drain that little bit that sat on the bottom but the new tank is larger and I won't be able to lift it.
I thought of pulling the vent hose and injecting air into it or should I not worry about the little bit of water left on the bottom

BTW
two seasons ago I bypassed the water heater too and just drained it without any antifreeze and in the spring when I recommissioned it I found stagnate foul water came out cause I guess the drain does not get all the water out

 

[seadaddler]

Rad

You need be careful pumping air into the tank but I am sure you know that,
if you can get at the drain hose or disconnect where the main line is try sucking
it out with a shop vac,it's so little it won't hurt.
Nick

 

[Maine Sail]

Some thoughts..

I replaced my water tank this summer and do not want to put the pink stuff in it either,last year I found a way to get the whole system antifreezed with 3 gals but I was able to lift the old water tank a little to drain that little bit that sat on the bottom but the new tank is larger and I won't be able to lift it.
I thought of pulling the vent hose and injecting air into it or should I not worry about the little bit of water left on the bottom.

Once the pump has sucked all the water it can from the tanks I disconnect the outlet hoses and let them drain into my bilge on their own. The key is that I drain my tanks and winterize about 3-4 days before I haul and the rocking of the boat on the mooring empties any last remnants of water from the tanks. If a little water freezes on the bottom of the tank it's no problem as expansion won't be a problem and the ice will have plenty of room to expand. Where you don't want it freezing is in any pipes, valves or fittings.

BTW
two seasons ago I bypassed the water heater too and just drained it without any antifreeze and in the spring when I recommissioned it I found stagnate foul water came out cause I guess the drain does not get all the water out

I use a drill mounted pump to drain all the water from the water heater. I then use my inflatables pump to blow through supply (top of the tank) to force any remaining water out of the inlet (bottom of the tank where the drain cock is)..


I took a few photos of the process and I'll try to get them uploaded in between paperwork!

 

[RAD]

Nick

Great idea, now I just have to make an adaptor to go from shop vac hose to 5/8 water hose

BTW you heading south soon?

 

[RAD]

Thanks for the reply

I remove the input hose to the pump which is also the drain from the tank and do the same thing by letting it sit low and then take an extra hose that I install onto the pump input and put it in a pail of pink stuff and turn on the faucet filling up an empy gallon jug and I keep filling the pail till I'm sure there's plenty of antifreeze in the system

I'm going to try the shop vac sucking method on the water heater drain this year