Legend 37.5 asym spinnaker arrangement

[aybabtme]

Hi folks, I just got an asymmetrical spinnaker made during the winter for a bargain price. I don't know anything about these sails so I figured I'd learn the Hard Way. How have you rigged this sail on your boats? Where do you attach the tack?

I've been thinking of using the ring on top of the anchor roller but I'm not sure if it'll be strong enough. I was planning on passing the sheets via blocks attached to the very last position on the toe rail (see picture).

 

[jssailem]

Hi @aybabtme
I bought a new asymmetrical Sail this winter and am preparing to rig it for the first time this spring. My boat is a 35ft Cal.

With regard to the sheets, I purchased two 57mm Harken blocks to turn the sheets into the cockpit. These sheets usually run to the furthest point at the stern. You have a cleat back there, as do I. That is where I plan to attaché the sheet blocks. I will be using soft shackles to attach the blocks to the cleats. This will allow the block to float up and away from the cleat when in use. There is a fair amount of movement of the block when the sail is in use. You need to have a fair lead from the sail clew to the block so choose your location carefully. In the cockpit you’ll want a place to secure the sheet. A cleat or a cam cleat of proper size will do. Note that if the wind comes up you want to have a way to release the sail and then retrieve it. So the sheets will need to be able to run free so as they say you can “blow the sail”. Check out tithe YouTube videos about sailing an asymmetrical spinnaker.

You will need a Tack block and sheet attached to a strong point on the bow. I plan to use the same block size and soft shackle attached to the bow roller. It will be ahead of the forestay but inside the bow pulpit.

My sail came with a ATN tacker and sock. You will need a tie down to secure the sock lines when the sail is flying. A bow cleat or pad eye can serve the purpose

Lastly you need a halyard that sits at the mast location designed for your mast. I have a crane attached to my mast head. It puts the block out and ahead of the forestay allows the sail to fly out and ahead of the boat. The block allows the head of the sail to rotate and float as needed for trim. You will want the halyard to be secure when hoisted I use a cleat at the mast.

That’s the short story. Hope it helps

 

[David in Sandusky]

The aft end of your toe rail will work, but jssailem’s idea of the aft cleat is better. If the top of your anchor roller isn’t strong enough for the tack of the asymetric, then it has no business with the anchor rode at anchor!

We take the sheet to the sheet winch, and secure it at the same jam cleat we use for the sheet of the genny.

We love this sail. It keeps us off the “iron genny” cruising in light winds, and it‘s fun to use.

 

[Timo42]

I wouldn't use the ring on top of the roller, the 37.5 I've raced on for the past couple of years has what looks like a tow eye mounted below the roller, a rigger who mainly sets up race boats made a strop that attaches there and runs up to the roller. I removed the forward most bolt on the port side of the roller and replaced it with an eyebolt, a snatch block attaches there, another block attaches to the strop and a third block has a Tylaska attached to it for a 2 to 1 purchase, with the Tylaska attached to the tack of the sail and the end of the tackline spliced to a becket on the block attached to the strop. You can just barely see the strop in the picture. We are currently using the foreguy for the symmetrical kite for the tackline, but we are planning to run a separate line through a couple of snatchblocks and low friction rings back to the port cabintop winch. Turning blocks attach to the toerail as far aft as possible, led to the secondary winches. The tack is far enough forwards for an inside gybe, but when it's blowing, outside is safer. I'll see if I can track down some other pics of the kite flying.