Well, I was directed to Peggy Hall here for Lectrasan questions, although any help by anyone would be greatly appreciated. Heres a cut and paste that I posted on another forum that I regularly visit. I have a dead, original Lectrasan. Thanks everyone, sorry for jumping right in on my first post here, and for any double post. This is my last ditch effort to fix this thing before I fork out a grand for a new, inferior, unit. I have the original instructions with troubleshooting and have been in touch with Raritan too. With the breaker on, I tested all the wires, relay, timer, fuses for voltage and they were all correct and flowing. When I turn the timer knob, nothing happens, except the timer ticking down. No lights, no meter reading on the unit, no motor running. The next step is to check the leads with the timer running, there is no power anywhere, not through the relay, not the timer, nowhere. The guide says that the relay and/or timer is bad. I replaced both. Nothing happened. I should note here that Raritan does not make parts for my unit. The timer came from Holt Marine, its made for this unit. The relay is your standard coil that you can get at any marine motor shop. Also I ran jumper cables directly to the tank and the motor runs fine. I am at my wits end with this thing. It seems like there is something so basic that I am overlooking. Your just supposed to turn on the breaker, turn the timer, and start flushing. It should work and the PO said it did!
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If NOTHING happens when you push the start button
There's no power to the system. I'm guessing that either the controller is wired incorrectly or defective. You proved that when running jumper cables directly to the the treatment device started it...the treatment unit motors run, the controller just won't start 'em. I'd have to be psychic to know exactly what you haven't wired correctly, but I'm betting you're right that it's a simple "Oh DUH!" Give Vic Willman at Raritan a call Monday morning--and don't talk to ANYONE else! Vic's been with Raritan 32 years...he's forgotten more about everything they've ever made--including the original Lectra/San--than anyone else at Raritan has ever learned. He'll know exactly what the problem is. 800-352-5630 x 6. Although your "stove timer" dial timer IS so obsolete that Raritan no longer supports it, the treatment unit is still essentially the same as it's been since your Lectra/San was introduced...only the controllers have changed. Raritan does still have parts for the treatment unit. What's more, you don't have to replace the whole system, you can just upgrade the controller. And contrary to your opinion, the new units are NOT inferior to the older ones. Just the opposite, in fact--electrode packs are far more durable, the new Electro Scan version uses less power than previous versions, and its controller has LEDs that actually give you information instead forcing you to remember the difference between a fast blinking light and slow blink.
There's no power to the system. I'm guessing that either the controller is wired incorrectly or defective. You proved that when running jumper cables directly to the the treatment device started it...the treatment unit motors run, the controller just won't start 'em. I'd have to be psychic to know exactly what you haven't wired correctly, but I'm betting you're right that it's a simple "Oh DUH!" Give Vic Willman at Raritan a call Monday morning--and don't talk to ANYONE else! Vic's been with Raritan 32 years...he's forgotten more about everything they've ever made--including the original Lectra/San--than anyone else at Raritan has ever learned. He'll know exactly what the problem is. 800-352-5630 x 6. Although your "stove timer" dial timer IS so obsolete that Raritan no longer supports it, the treatment unit is still essentially the same as it's been since your Lectra/San was introduced...only the controllers have changed. Raritan does still have parts for the treatment unit. What's more, you don't have to replace the whole system, you can just upgrade the controller. And contrary to your opinion, the new units are NOT inferior to the older ones. Just the opposite, in fact--electrode packs are far more durable, the new Electro Scan version uses less power than previous versions, and its controller has LEDs that actually give you information instead forcing you to remember the difference between a fast blinking light and slow blink.
Did I say inferior? I meant superior!
Thanks Peggy. I have been over that diagram a dozen times. I'll take a day off and check again. Its strange that there is 12vdc running through the whole unit until I turn on the timer, then there is nothing. Especially after replacing the parts. I have been emailing back and forth with Vic and he has been very helpful. Good to know that I can just buy the control unit. Thanks for your help, I will follow up. Bob I should say that it has not worked since I got the boat in December, with the exact same symptoms. So that leads me to believe that it is more a "broken" problem than a "bad wiring" problem.
Thanks Peggy. I have been over that diagram a dozen times. I'll take a day off and check again. Its strange that there is 12vdc running through the whole unit until I turn on the timer, then there is nothing. Especially after replacing the parts. I have been emailing back and forth with Vic and he has been very helpful. Good to know that I can just buy the control unit. Thanks for your help, I will follow up. Bob I should say that it has not worked since I got the boat in December, with the exact same symptoms. So that leads me to believe that it is more a "broken" problem than a "bad wiring" problem.
Call Vic from the boat...
He's not there on weekends, but if you can get away to the boat during the week, the two of your may be able to sort out the problem together while you're able to poke and prod it. I just had an idea, but I can't find my copy of the manual for the original L/S, so can't check the wiring diagram for the dial timer to check it out: If your toilet is electric, flushing the toilet won't start later models of the L/S unless the controller is wired to the flush button. If it's not wired to the flush button, the L/S has to be started separately. If you have a manual toilet, Raritan offered an option sensor for the later MC model that recognizes incoming and starts the L/S, but there's no way to make that work with earlier versions. It couldn't be as simple as, you just haven't wired it to turn it on...could it?
He's not there on weekends, but if you can get away to the boat during the week, the two of your may be able to sort out the problem together while you're able to poke and prod it. I just had an idea, but I can't find my copy of the manual for the original L/S, so can't check the wiring diagram for the dial timer to check it out: If your toilet is electric, flushing the toilet won't start later models of the L/S unless the controller is wired to the flush button. If it's not wired to the flush button, the L/S has to be started separately. If you have a manual toilet, Raritan offered an option sensor for the later MC model that recognizes incoming and starts the L/S, but there's no way to make that work with earlier versions. It couldn't be as simple as, you just haven't wired it to turn it on...could it?
Ground?
I've got the manual toilet. I will call Vic. Looking at the overall diagram, I am thinking that maybe the treatment unit is not grounded. Could be the wire got knocked off. I have not checked that yet.
I've got the manual toilet. I will call Vic. Looking at the overall diagram, I am thinking that maybe the treatment unit is not grounded. Could be the wire got knocked off. I have not checked that yet.
ohms
Peggie, can't get a hold of Vic at the moment. Do you know what the ohms should be on the control unit and the treatment unit? Thanks, Bob
Peggie, can't get a hold of Vic at the moment. Do you know what the ohms should be on the control unit and the treatment unit? Thanks, Bob
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