I recently took all the windows out of my '85 Catalina 30 (don't ask). It was the last year of the aluminum frames. I've got six of them back in no problem, no leaks. The last two are causing trouble because the holes in the side of the boat are too big/wrong shape, and it is almost impossible to line them up so there is a seal all the way around, (especially when they have a load of sealant on them so I can't see the edges as they go in). I'm getting gaps in one or another corner in both cases, and it is clearly because the holes were cut out of square and too big in places. Rather than trying again and again, I am thinking that adding a bit of fiberglass to carefully selected spots to close up the holes a tiny bit. I'd love to hear either different ways of solving the problem, or advice on how to go about the fiberglass job. What product, what prep, any tips or tricks?
Leaky windows
- Thread starter Berkeley 30
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The problem is the frame, not the lens. I can cut the lens any size I want myself, but the aluminum frame is what it is. (They stopped making them a long time ago, when they switched to the plexiglass stuck on the outside.) I think I'd need to get a larger frame fabricated and I think it would be very expensive.
I have a Catalina 22. Same window type, you would have to build up the glass around the edges, if the holes are too big for the frames. It should not be too hard to do. Have you tried using butyl tape on the window frames? It gives you a little more wiggle room so to speak when lining up the window frame. I used butyl on my windows and it was way easier than using the Dow 795 that came with my kit. They have not leaked in three years. Dano
Sounds like a possibility. Could you give me a bit more detail on how you used the butyl tape? The problem I'm having is that, quite literally, once I've got the window in place and trim the excess sealant there is a hole, through which you can see daylight, between the frame and the cutout in the fiberglass. How does the tape do a better job of filling that than the sealant? Or is it just that you can see the edge of the frame better when lining up the frame?
Also, when using the tape, if you line the frame up wrong the first time, can you just pull it off, tape and all, and try again, or does the tape come off the frame when you pull it back to realign it?
The butyl tape will not fill in a big hole if the frame is way just way too small. It does give a good view of the frame as you put it in place. If the placement is off when putting it down, it is easy to remove it reshape the butyl tape and start over. If it you get it tightened down and it leaks or is not right it is easy to remove and try again, unlike 795. I hope this helps. Dano
I assume you've tried different ports in different holes? Perhaps there's some difference between them. Your boat may have settled, twisted, etc while sitting on it's cradle so now the holes in the fiberglass may be misshapen a bit. If this is the case, perhaps something flexible like TotalBoat's ThixoFlex or West's G/flex to fill the gap might work well to fill the gap.
I used butyl on one of my plastic frames which has a groove. One layer of butyl was not enough so I added a seconds which turned out to be too thick. Some of it oozed out when I installed it but there's still a visible, but sealed gap between the frame and fiberglass. Because my plastic frame is brittle, I was unable to apply much pressure on the frame. I'd use it again on a different style of frame. It is removable (start on one side and apply slow, constant pressure to push it out). If any oozes out after install, remove it with a knife sooner rather than later. It gains adhesion over time.
I used butyl on one of my plastic frames which has a groove. One layer of butyl was not enough so I added a seconds which turned out to be too thick. Some of it oozed out when I installed it but there's still a visible, but sealed gap between the frame and fiberglass. Because my plastic frame is brittle, I was unable to apply much pressure on the frame. I'd use it again on a different style of frame. It is removable (start on one side and apply slow, constant pressure to push it out). If any oozes out after install, remove it with a knife sooner rather than later. It gains adhesion over time.
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I found that the cutout on my boat was pretty shoddy too. I guess if it's covered with trim they don't need to do a good job.
You could try to fill the gap with thickened epoxy, but I'd worry that there isn't enough bonding surface and the epoxy would crack at the joint and leak. A better way would be to grind a taper on the opening and lay some new glass. Then cut back the new glass to the correct opening size. That way the new glass would have the width of the taper to bond to, but now you might have to paint/gel coat because the taper would extend outside the frame.
You could try to fill the gap with thickened epoxy, but I'd worry that there isn't enough bonding surface and the epoxy would crack at the joint and leak. A better way would be to grind a taper on the opening and lay some new glass. Then cut back the new glass to the correct opening size. That way the new glass would have the width of the taper to bond to, but now you might have to paint/gel coat because the taper would extend outside the frame.
The technique for repair depends on how this area of the boat was built. Can you post a pic of inside and out?
if you are really tired of doing Windows use go buy some smoked plexiglass and do the VHB tape to mount it and dow795 to seal it, you can potentially use the told outside frame from the opposite side and your inner frame.
I haven't pulled all my windows yet l, I have only done two on my 83, but one has a minor leak still. I used dow795 for both the lense and the frame, I'm not the biggest fan of butyl as a PO had used it and it took me a few hours and soaks with goo gone to get the frames clean enough to start the project.
I haven't pulled all my windows yet l, I have only done two on my 83, but one has a minor leak still. I used dow795 for both the lense and the frame, I'm not the biggest fan of butyl as a PO had used it and it took me a few hours and soaks with goo gone to get the frames clean enough to start the project.