Hey Guys, I have a 1977 C-30 with windows that leaked a little last year, and leak a little more this year. I plan on pulling them & replacing the weatherstripping. I already got the supplies from Catalina Direct. My question revolves around rain water entering the deck core. It seems to me that it's possible for water to enter between the cabin liner and the deck & reach the wood core. Is that true?? I'm trying to figure out if I can wait until spring to do the job, or if I should pull the window frames now & allow some "dry out" time. The boat is currently shrink wrapped. Any comments would be appreciated from others who have done this job. Thanks in advance, Allen Schweitzer s/v Falstaff C-30 Hull# 632
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C30 Portlights
Allen You need to do it right away if you're concerned about core rot. However, if your shrink wrap is really tight, then it shouldn't matter until next spring as far as the core is concerned. I guess only you can figure out if it's worth the time to unwrap and re-wrap. You could just start a bit earlier in the spring. We can't tell how bad the condition is and how long it'll need to dry out, but hairguns are handy dry-out tools. Good luck, Stu
Allen You need to do it right away if you're concerned about core rot. However, if your shrink wrap is really tight, then it shouldn't matter until next spring as far as the core is concerned. I guess only you can figure out if it's worth the time to unwrap and re-wrap. You could just start a bit earlier in the spring. We can't tell how bad the condition is and how long it'll need to dry out, but hairguns are handy dry-out tools. Good luck, Stu
C-30 leaky ports
I just got done doing the exact same thing on my 1985 C-30. I just bought the boat and the previous owner told me about the ports leaking. He had ordered the glazing channel but had not started the project. Turns out that the existing glaze job was done poorly. The advice I got (and used successfully) was to go heavy on the caulk. The previous job had virtually no caulking and every joint leaked. Don't worry about buying the high priced stuff. I used GE's top-o-the-line silicon from Home Depot and have no leaks. Good Luck - DSW
I just got done doing the exact same thing on my 1985 C-30. I just bought the boat and the previous owner told me about the ports leaking. He had ordered the glazing channel but had not started the project. Turns out that the existing glaze job was done poorly. The advice I got (and used successfully) was to go heavy on the caulk. The previous job had virtually no caulking and every joint leaked. Don't worry about buying the high priced stuff. I used GE's top-o-the-line silicon from Home Depot and have no leaks. Good Luck - DSW
I am doing this on my '86 C-36
I am replacing the window glazing on my C-36. When I pulled the window out of the opening, I noticed that on the cabin sides there is no coring. Water could get between the liner and the cabin sides, but there is no wood core exposed to the interior of the boat. The only way I see for water to get into the wooden core is that if you have some through-deck fittings below your windows through which water could wick. I have also been replacing some fittings and deck hatches, and in those instances there is wood coring that is vulnerable to water. If you are doing any work on the flat deck surfaces, then you should over-bore your fastner holes and fill with epoxy. Then re-drill into the epoxy for your fasteners. Good luck, Les Murray s/v Ceilidh '86 C-36 #560
I am replacing the window glazing on my C-36. When I pulled the window out of the opening, I noticed that on the cabin sides there is no coring. Water could get between the liner and the cabin sides, but there is no wood core exposed to the interior of the boat. The only way I see for water to get into the wooden core is that if you have some through-deck fittings below your windows through which water could wick. I have also been replacing some fittings and deck hatches, and in those instances there is wood coring that is vulnerable to water. If you are doing any work on the flat deck surfaces, then you should over-bore your fastner holes and fill with epoxy. Then re-drill into the epoxy for your fasteners. Good luck, Les Murray s/v Ceilidh '86 C-36 #560
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