leaky windows O'Day 22

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Mar 19, 2007
16
- - Seneca Lake State Park, NY
I know I've seen this subject at one point but I've done a search and can't find anything on it. So once again I have to rely on your much valued input. All our windows on our O'Day 22leak to some extent. So as I was taking the teak off of our boat,in hopes of refinishing it rather than replacing, I also decided to try and take one of the windows out to see how difficult it is to do. Low and behold an hour later I was finding the task not too easy to do. I took all the caulking out thinking I could slide the window and frame out, but to my suprise there was no way it was going to go out the opening. So I saw the 4 screws that hold the aluminum frame together around the glass and thought that if I took them out I could slide the frame apart take the glass out and then the frame since it would be in 2 pieces. That didn't work either. Any sugesstions? If so what should I seal the opening with so the windows don't leak? Last but not least, should I just see if our local auto glass and window repair shop will do the work? Thank You ahead of time, Curt
 
Jan 24, 2005
4,881
Oday 222 Dighton, Ma.
Leaky windows

I'm not very familiar with the windows on the O'Day 22, as the O'Day 222 has a different window set-up with no frames, but wood screws through the Plexiglas. I would go with a good grade of regular boat caulking. I've used Boat-Life Boat Caulking and that works well, but 3M makes a 4200 fast set-up adhesive/sealing caulking that I much prefer over any of the silicone caulking on the market. I use it for almost everything including deck hardware. when I apply it to any kind of deck hardware, I just snug up the screws or bolts so that the caulking doesn't get all squeeze out. Then, I let the caulking set up for a day or so, and come back and re-tighten the deck hardware. If there's bolts and nuts involved, I try keep the bolts from turning while I tighten the nuts to them. Be careful of some of these fiberglass cleaners, or even the household cleansers that may have Oxalic acid. This stuff can eat out the caulking. Years ago, I picked up one of these books on boat keeping and they had something in there about regular household cleansers that will clean Gel cote, like Zud Cleanser with Oxalic Acid. So I used it and sure enough, my decks and hull were spotless, but later on I started to get leaks in my cabin, and it turned out that this cleanser ate out the caulking under my gunwale molding. I wound up removing the whole molding around the boat and re caulked it. So, now I use soap and water on my boat and nothing else. Good luck! Joe
 
Mar 19, 2007
16
- - Seneca Lake State Park, NY
Thank You Joe

Thank You Joe, I've had suggestions from replacing the windows altogether or to just put a bead of silicone around the outside of the window frame. None of the options seemed great, either being too costly or just down right tacky looking. So I decided to do the work of getting the windows out and puting a bead of silicone behind the window. Instead of silicone I'll be using 3M 4200. Thank You for steering me in the right direction, especially in the application of the caulk! Curt
 
Jun 2, 2004
1,438
Oday 25 pittsburgh
Becareful of the polysulfides,

they are not good on the pvc frames. It will make them brittle. If the 22 has a fiberglass headliner like th 25, I would removethe ports, use spray foam(the red can) and foam between the headliner and the cabin shell. Foam it and with in five minutes wipe the excess off. If it gets on the boat it is a night mare to remove. Then wait until morning and saw the excess hard foam off.(it will have continued expanding but is less likely to stick to the deck or head liner) Make sure there is no old caulk/sealant on the cabin shell and the ports. I hate silicone but it is the only safe thing to use with the pvc ports. Beckson recommends dow silicone. I would apply the silicone, then lightly press it into place. Attach the interior retainer just so that some of the silicone ozzes from under the flange. Then clean up the ozzed out silicone with some 3M sealant and caulking remover. Wait until the silicone sets up then finish tightening the interior retainer. On my 25, the cut-outs for the ports were not cut well. So if the port wasn't shimmed to the center of the opening, the flange would only cover less than 1/8 inch of cabin shell. In other words, I would prefit and plan shims before applying the silicone. good luck, r.w.landau
 
Jan 24, 2005
4,881
Oday 222 Dighton, Ma.
Leaky ports

Curt, RW may be right on the use of silicone verses Polysulfides on the Beckson PVC ports. As always, I didn't check the directions on the package to find out what they recommended for caulking. Who'd have thunk it? I think that I still have the empty package that the deck plate came in, inside the cabin waste paper basket in my boat. So I'll check it, and if they recommend the silicone, I'll replace the caulking today. Thank you RW, for pointing this out. Joe
 
Mar 19, 2007
16
- - Seneca Lake State Park, NY
Thanks for the input

Thank You Joe & r.w.landau, I'll make sure the sealant I use won't harm our boat. I really appreciate the input. Hopefully I'll get some good progress in on the windows this weekend. The teak is about halfway done. Can't wait to get out and sail!! Enjoy the Weekend,especially if it involves sailing. Curt
 
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