I can't seem to seal up my shrouds -- the water runs right into the bulkhead where the shroud is bolted -- caulking doesn't seem to cut it -- any ideas?
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Chainplate Leaks
Mike An archive search on chainplates found the link. What kind and size of boat do you have? What do mean by "caulk doesn't work?" What did you do, so far. What's not working? Could you be more specific?
Mike An archive search on chainplates found the link. What kind and size of boat do you have? What do mean by "caulk doesn't work?" What did you do, so far. What's not working? Could you be more specific?
Answers
I have a 1977 O'Day 27. The Upper shrouds run through the deck and bolt on to a wooden bulkhead in the cabin. I have pumped Life Caulk into the gap on many occasions to seal it up, but I just can't seem to stop the leaks.
I have a 1977 O'Day 27. The Upper shrouds run through the deck and bolt on to a wooden bulkhead in the cabin. I have pumped Life Caulk into the gap on many occasions to seal it up, but I just can't seem to stop the leaks.
Start over
I struggeld with the same problem and here's what I did . At this point you should abandon the "fix it" approach if pumping caulk in and try the "repair it properly" approach. I would completely remove the chainplates, clean out the areas, and reinstall with a proper bedding method/material. When you remove the plates, check for core damage at the area and address this if you find any damage repair it. Assuming the hole is dry, over drill it, fill with epoxy, and them redrill for the bolt size. This will protect the core from future water leaks. Then bed the plate with proper material, eg, 4200. Set in place, lightly tighten, and then let dry before finally tighening. Viola! Leak fixed for multiple years and no ugly caulk goop! Brad
I struggeld with the same problem and here's what I did . At this point you should abandon the "fix it" approach if pumping caulk in and try the "repair it properly" approach. I would completely remove the chainplates, clean out the areas, and reinstall with a proper bedding method/material. When you remove the plates, check for core damage at the area and address this if you find any damage repair it. Assuming the hole is dry, over drill it, fill with epoxy, and them redrill for the bolt size. This will protect the core from future water leaks. Then bed the plate with proper material, eg, 4200. Set in place, lightly tighten, and then let dry before finally tighening. Viola! Leak fixed for multiple years and no ugly caulk goop! Brad
Try towels
I can't stop the water, so I strategically place small handtowels stolen from motels all over the country. These are tucked in certain spots where the water is known to run. As a result, my bilge stays pretty dry and therefore pristine. Oddly, water continues to come through the 2-inch hole in the fore where the groundwire comes through. Water is likely coming over the side through the line where the top of the hull meets the liner. Next, I'll explain how I solved the problem of squirrels ravaing the birdfeeder. I declared them birds.
I can't stop the water, so I strategically place small handtowels stolen from motels all over the country. These are tucked in certain spots where the water is known to run. As a result, my bilge stays pretty dry and therefore pristine. Oddly, water continues to come through the 2-inch hole in the fore where the groundwire comes through. Water is likely coming over the side through the line where the top of the hull meets the liner. Next, I'll explain how I solved the problem of squirrels ravaing the birdfeeder. I declared them birds.
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