Leaky Boat!

Status
Not open for further replies.
N

Nick

Here's the scoop... My '86 h23 has been leaky for a few weeks--I found water under the floor boards in the cabin, and in the bilge under the cockpit. After much investigation we found the source of the leak: one of the lower bolts in the transom that hold the plate/rudder post assy to the outside of the transom. Here's my question... As I attack the job this weekend, I'm wondering how to proceed. I'd rather not trailer her now (in high season) and go through an extensive fiberglass-like project. However the transom immediately around the bolt (a couple cm) DOES feel a little soft. How about just re-tightening the bolt + caulking around the plate on the transom? Or possibly adding a similar plate on the inside and caulking around both. These are the short-cuts, but I'm thinking it'll take more than that. ...THOUGHTS?? Thanks in advance for any replies!
 
Apr 19, 1999
1,670
Pearson Wanderer Titusville, Florida
Dry it out?

If it's not too extensive you may be able to take the pintle off, heat the area with a blow dryer and dry the wood core out. Then soak the area with some epoxy or Git-Rot. Peter H23 "Raven"
 
C

Chris

definately add a plate

I would definately add a backing plate on the inside of the transom if the fiberglass feels soft. YOU DON'T WANT THAT BRACKET PULLING OUT!
 
F

fletchdoggie

weight in back

I have the same problem,however my stern is pretty much out of the water except when sailing.Remove all articles from bilge and even the motor.That should bring the plate above the water line.That should keep it high enough to dry out.
 
C

Crazy Dave Condon

buy beer

The rudder attachment on the old wing keel Hunter 23 is above the water. I would suggest that a backing plate be inserted but you mention softning of the glass around the holes. Could it be caulk. If not, you really need to fix the glass first and use 5200 when rebedding the rudder. Adding weight to the fronto of the boat will lift the stern. Suggest 3-4 guys and buy the beeer. crazy dave Condon
 
K

Kevin Keen

Rebedding the lower pintle

I agree with using a backing plate. I added a 1/4 inch stainless steel plate about the same size as the replaced chunk of teak (actually did it for both pintles). For rebedding I recommend polysulfide (Life Caulk) instead of 5200 in case you need to do more work later or plan to adopt an annual commissioning inspection. For my 1985 boat the area around the 4 holes for the pintles were fine, inspecting the wood core visible at the holes showed it to be dry for each hole. - Kevin.
 
Status
Not open for further replies.