Fixed a leak through the hull that was taking on about 1 gal/day, but now STILL have a leak (in another location) from the water ballast tank taking on about 1 cup/day. The marina is giving up. They think I should just deal with it. I have asked them to haul it out anyway and do their best. We HAVE determined (by use of dye) that the leak is actually from the ballast tank into the interior. IMHO, the nature of this kind of leak is that the water will find a way around a patch put on the outside of the tank (i.e. inside the bilge) because it is pressing outward against the patch. I was thinking there might be a way of sealing the tank from inside. Current ideas: 1) spray-in like used in automotive undercoating where they use a long tube with an omnidirectional nozzle; 2) an old fish tank cure involving peat moss. Any other ideas/experiences out there?
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Don't let them do it.
I used to repair fiberglass ski boats and water skis in Florida so I have a little know how. If the patch is done properly, it should not leak under any kind of normally expected use, which inlcudes heavy weather and loading and unloading the boat at the ramp. When the leak is expanded to excavate and grind out all delaminated areas, then tapered on the outside so filling and feathering can be done to create a very large surface area for adhesion, leaking is just impossible if the right materials are used and cured properly. There are many books on the subject. The ballast tank is no different than any other part of the hull except for ease of accessibility. On the interior, however, access ports can be cut wherever necessary. I would not try to put something in the tank like a liquid sealer, or moss or anything. For your safety it's important to be done right with no pssibility of catastrophic failure over time due to neglect. The fact that your chosen repair shop suggested just living with it shows you they know next to nothing about safe and effective repair and the serious consequences of delamination on a boat in the water. Get your boat to a better marina which speciallizes in fiberglass boat repair and guarantees their work. Even if it charges more, your safety is worth it.
I used to repair fiberglass ski boats and water skis in Florida so I have a little know how. If the patch is done properly, it should not leak under any kind of normally expected use, which inlcudes heavy weather and loading and unloading the boat at the ramp. When the leak is expanded to excavate and grind out all delaminated areas, then tapered on the outside so filling and feathering can be done to create a very large surface area for adhesion, leaking is just impossible if the right materials are used and cured properly. There are many books on the subject. The ballast tank is no different than any other part of the hull except for ease of accessibility. On the interior, however, access ports can be cut wherever necessary. I would not try to put something in the tank like a liquid sealer, or moss or anything. For your safety it's important to be done right with no pssibility of catastrophic failure over time due to neglect. The fact that your chosen repair shop suggested just living with it shows you they know next to nothing about safe and effective repair and the serious consequences of delamination on a boat in the water. Get your boat to a better marina which speciallizes in fiberglass boat repair and guarantees their work. Even if it charges more, your safety is worth it.
year of boat?
can you tell me the year, and where the last leak was found? I think the centerboard models can leak at the pivot bolt. I think you can seal from the cabin... dont rush the repair. do it right. doubt rubber undercoat will stick to wet fiberglass. -How about seal the balast, and blow air into the vent hold. shop vac... compressor.. airpump... maybe w/ smoke........ or smell... vinegar.. or bleach...
can you tell me the year, and where the last leak was found? I think the centerboard models can leak at the pivot bolt. I think you can seal from the cabin... dont rush the repair. do it right. doubt rubber undercoat will stick to wet fiberglass. -How about seal the balast, and blow air into the vent hold. shop vac... compressor.. airpump... maybe w/ smoke........ or smell... vinegar.. or bleach...
Fluoroscene
Check my spelling but a little fluoroscene and a uv light at night will locate your leak in a hurry. Might consider buying or borrowing a borescope instead of tearing up so much of the boat before you locate the leak. Mildly compressed air in the ballast tank might give you bubbles but I'd try the fluoroscene dye first. It will glow a bright green with very little leakage. You will have to fill the tank to make this work. I also suggest you look carefully at accessable areas where a dropped tool or anchor might have created the problem. Rear laz, each side and especially front storage compartment. MrBill's suggestion of the pivot holes for the keel are excellent places to look. Dry the inside of the hull first then go for leak detection. Night sailor is right. Find the leak, patch it correctly from above and it won't leak anymore. You say the hull was leaking. What happened to cause this? Might be the best clue as to where the ballast tank is leaking, perhaps from same damage? Steve P.
Check my spelling but a little fluoroscene and a uv light at night will locate your leak in a hurry. Might consider buying or borrowing a borescope instead of tearing up so much of the boat before you locate the leak. Mildly compressed air in the ballast tank might give you bubbles but I'd try the fluoroscene dye first. It will glow a bright green with very little leakage. You will have to fill the tank to make this work. I also suggest you look carefully at accessable areas where a dropped tool or anchor might have created the problem. Rear laz, each side and especially front storage compartment. MrBill's suggestion of the pivot holes for the keel are excellent places to look. Dry the inside of the hull first then go for leak detection. Night sailor is right. Find the leak, patch it correctly from above and it won't leak anymore. You say the hull was leaking. What happened to cause this? Might be the best clue as to where the ballast tank is leaking, perhaps from same damage? Steve P.
My balast leak
when I first got my boat there was a soft spot in the forward bottom of laserette, I was able to stick a pencil thru the glass into... something... I think it was the waterbalast, but it could have been the storage below the (cabin) stern berth. but since I never saw the pencil in the storage, I assume it went into the waterbalast. (the boat was on the trailer, so I'm not sure if it leaked before i 'fixed' it.) I just put down some Fglass cloth and some west system epoxy... then added even more when I put the depth finder transducer in. so, depending on where the water is found.... but a possible source it the most rear portion of the balast. heres a layout of the D model... http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y159/ftldiver/mac/26dplan.jpg bob whites side has a link for the C model...
when I first got my boat there was a soft spot in the forward bottom of laserette, I was able to stick a pencil thru the glass into... something... I think it was the waterbalast, but it could have been the storage below the (cabin) stern berth. but since I never saw the pencil in the storage, I assume it went into the waterbalast. (the boat was on the trailer, so I'm not sure if it leaked before i 'fixed' it.) I just put down some Fglass cloth and some west system epoxy... then added even more when I put the depth finder transducer in. so, depending on where the water is found.... but a possible source it the most rear portion of the balast. heres a layout of the D model... http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y159/ftldiver/mac/26dplan.jpg bob whites side has a link for the C model...
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