I'm considering buying a 37 Cutter but got some reports of serious leaks from the deck/hull junction. Would anybody have information on how difficult is to remove the toerail and rebbed it? Thanks, John
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Dave Simpson
Hull/Deck Joint
If you'll look in the archives, I think you'll find several posts on this issue. Some owners have found that, since Hunter used a slightly elastic product like or equal to 3M#5200, merely tightening the bolts can solve the problem. The other two "weak points" on that boat are the holding tank and the cheap plastic ports. Other than those items, it's one of the best values on the market; I know, I've owned, sailed, and lived aboard one for 15 years.
If you'll look in the archives, I think you'll find several posts on this issue. Some owners have found that, since Hunter used a slightly elastic product like or equal to 3M#5200, merely tightening the bolts can solve the problem. The other two "weak points" on that boat are the holding tank and the cheap plastic ports. Other than those items, it's one of the best values on the market; I know, I've owned, sailed, and lived aboard one for 15 years.
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Sanders LaMont
might try tightening first
Dave's suggestion is consistent with advice I got from a long-time Hunter 37-C owner. Get a friend on deck to hold the screwdriver while you tighten from underneath. He suggested doing it once per year, but that has not been necessary yet. Sanders Sacramento
Dave's suggestion is consistent with advice I got from a long-time Hunter 37-C owner. Get a friend on deck to hold the screwdriver while you tighten from underneath. He suggested doing it once per year, but that has not been necessary yet. Sanders Sacramento
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Ed Schenck
Toerail bolts.
Many are really hard to get a socket on. I have my wife hold a large phillips with vise-grips locked on. Then I tighten from below with a 7/16" deep socket, extension, and universal. But there are some I cannot reach, the most important being alongside the anchor locker. What do you fellows(and ladies) think about adding a fiber locknut on every third or fourth bolt?
Many are really hard to get a socket on. I have my wife hold a large phillips with vise-grips locked on. Then I tighten from below with a 7/16" deep socket, extension, and universal. But there are some I cannot reach, the most important being alongside the anchor locker. What do you fellows(and ladies) think about adding a fiber locknut on every third or fourth bolt?
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Carl Foster
toe rail bolts
I don't believe the bolts are loosening but that the elasticity and working of the joint probably moves the sealant around and creates new leak. Elastic stop nuts sure won't hurt but i doubt they are a cure.
I don't believe the bolts are loosening but that the elasticity and working of the joint probably moves the sealant around and creates new leak. Elastic stop nuts sure won't hurt but i doubt they are a cure.
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Ed Schenck
Do we agree. . . .
that the only place for water ingress is through the bolt hole? I thought I saw a diagram of the hull to deck joint that showed an overlap/wraparound so there is no seam to leak, only the bolt holes. If so it seems that if the bolts are tight enough no water should get in. But no one ever answered the original question. How hard is it to completely remove the toerail or at least get it loose enough to get a sealant under it? Seems like a really tough job what with the stanchions, pulpits, etc.
that the only place for water ingress is through the bolt hole? I thought I saw a diagram of the hull to deck joint that showed an overlap/wraparound so there is no seam to leak, only the bolt holes. If so it seems that if the bolts are tight enough no water should get in. But no one ever answered the original question. How hard is it to completely remove the toerail or at least get it loose enough to get a sealant under it? Seems like a really tough job what with the stanchions, pulpits, etc.
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Carl Foster
To ED
I think you have it pretty well sussed out, my 27' has the same basic joint and toe rail as yours and when first aquired it had leaks that traveled along the inner liner and dripped at various places. I thought as did the former owner that it came from the toe rail.He had glopped copius ammounts of silicone seal over and around all toe rail screws and inner edge,no attempt made to fair it in. Do not do this!! Once sealed together stainless bolts and aluminum rail in absence of air and fresh water to clean set up the most efficient corrosion factory i've ever seen. The source of the leak? Main cabin windows. At present i have small leak on toe rail next to anchor locker on port side that i need to get to. I really don't think lifting and resealing rail would be feasable on my boat as there are places that may prove impossible to get to without major disassembly of some interior components which i have built into mine. So i will tighten bolts in the affected area and wait for the next leak. CF
I think you have it pretty well sussed out, my 27' has the same basic joint and toe rail as yours and when first aquired it had leaks that traveled along the inner liner and dripped at various places. I thought as did the former owner that it came from the toe rail.He had glopped copius ammounts of silicone seal over and around all toe rail screws and inner edge,no attempt made to fair it in. Do not do this!! Once sealed together stainless bolts and aluminum rail in absence of air and fresh water to clean set up the most efficient corrosion factory i've ever seen. The source of the leak? Main cabin windows. At present i have small leak on toe rail next to anchor locker on port side that i need to get to. I really don't think lifting and resealing rail would be feasable on my boat as there are places that may prove impossible to get to without major disassembly of some interior components which i have built into mine. So i will tighten bolts in the affected area and wait for the next leak. CF
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