Leaking window on a 25 hunter

[Frank McGurk]

I am having a terrible leaking problem around my windows and forward hatch. If any Hunter 25 owner has some experience fixing the windows and hatch please let me hear from you. I just bought the boat and it requires sealing but I am unsure how to take the fixures out so I can clean and seal. Any help would be appreciated it is starting to rain here in VA.

 

[Ed Schenck]

Which Hunter 25?

Is it the model with the original Gray portlights(link below)? If yes then there is some bad news. To stop the leaking simply remove the outside frame and dig out the old sealant. Or as much of the sealant as possible. Then "overfill" the gaps with a good sealant like LifeCalk. Use lots so that it squeezes out from under the frame when you reinstall. Wait for the sealant to set up before carefully removing the excess.Now for the bad news. I could not get the frames off without breaking them! They stuck so well and were very brittle from age. And they are just a thin trim-ring. This was not a problem for me because I was replacing the portlights. Maybe you can purchase just the frames but check before cracking one! Can't help with the hatch, never had one leak.

 

[Frank]

Leaking 25

Ed Thank you for your response as usual you insight is greatly appreciated. I have read your other replies the last few years and they are always great. My 25 is a 1981 hunter with almond frames around the outside windows. How do you take them out normally? Thanks for link to the hatch manufacturer.Regards Frank

 

[Ed Schenck]

Normal removal.

Not sure about "normal" Frank. It's quite an effort, both to do and to explain. Why not drop me a line?Edschencked@bfusa.com

 

[Dr. R. A. Brown]

Stop Leaks

On my '82 H25 I have stopped all the porthole leaks. First and foremost, DO NOT OVERTIGHTEN THE DOGS ON THE CLEAR SIDE PORTS. Just a little squeeze is all it takes. Otherwise you'll "kill" the gasket material. Some silicone grease on the gasket will help, too. Second, I was able to stop all the leaks around the outside trim strips by simply running a filleted bead of silicone bathtub caulk around them. You do this by cutting the spout of the caulk tube off square and then PUSHING the squeezed out caulk ahead of the spout. This forces the caulk into the gap and gives a nice fillet to the joint.  On the Gray (Co.) forward hatch, the same technique works aroung the edge. After about 17 years, though, moisture worked its way into the threaded holes for the open hatch supports. When this froze over the winter, it opened a very hard to see crack in the dark glass-filled plastic. Taking out the screw and caulking with black polyurethane caulk/adhesive solved the problem. Being sure to lightly coat the screw with oil before reinserting (before the poly sets) will ensure you'll be able to get it apart again if and when needed. The same poly can be used around the clear plastic insert should a leak develop there. Hope this helps.