Hi all, I have a question concerning my Hunter 27 (1985). I've owned this yacht for a few years now as I am restoring the interior and exterior and fitting her for handling Lake Erie. However, I have 2 other yachts and have not had the opportunity as of yet to sail my Hunter. So far, I have kept my Hunter 27 on the hard under wraps. A week ago, the cover came off due to a large storm. The week prior, the interior was totally dry. I got in the boat and realize that the top side is leaking a lot. The bilge was completely full up and there was about 2 inches of water on the cabin sole. So, we are talking about some serious leakage. The top side seems very sound.. I'm not sure where all leaks are located but noticed that water is definitely getting in through the forward hatch and it appears to be leaking at the toe rail all the way around. (I noticed water trails along the cabin walls and noticed that was had even gotten into the oil catch area under the Yanmar inboord. I'd hate to have to remove each and every bolt that holds the toe rail on. Has anyone had this problem? What is the fix? Where have you found your Hunter to Leak? I'd like to seal all leaks this spring after your advice. Thank you all in advance. Skipper
leaking top side
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Hi all, I have a question concerning my Hunter 27 (1985). I've owned this yacht for a few years now as I am restoring the interior and exterior and fitting her for handling Lake Erie. However, I have 2 other yachts and have not had the opportunity as of yet to sail my Hunter. So far, I have kept my Hunter 27 on the hard under wraps. A week ago, the cover came off due to a large storm. The week prior, the interior was totally dry. I got in the boat and realize that the top side is leaking a lot. The bilge was completely full up and there was about 2 inches of water on the cabin sole. So, we are talking about some serious leakage. The top side seems very sound.. I'm not sure where all leaks are located but noticed that water is definitely getting in through the forward hatch and it appears to be leaking at the toe rail all the way around. (I noticed water trails along the cabin walls and noticed that was had even gotten into the oil catch area under the Yanmar inboord. I'd hate to have to remove each and every bolt that holds the toe rail on. Has anyone had this problem? What is the fix? Where have you found your Hunter to Leak? I'd like to seal all leaks this spring after your advice. Thank you all in advance. Skipper
I'm not familiar with the 27 but.....
I have a 1982 Hunter 30. When I acquired the boat, there were water streaks on the side walls all the way around, but only below the waterline, and I concluded that they were from condensation caused by the cold waters of Lake Michigan on hot humid days. There was evidence of a few isolated toe rail leaks and the PO had put silicone sealant along the inside edge of the aluminum toe rail. I'm sure that's not the right way to reseal a toe rail but it's not leaking any more...at least for now. Both hatches were leaking so I removed and reset them in sealant but I have yet to address the weather seal gaskets which also leak a bit when I clean the deck. I don't know how much water your bilge holds, but the quantity of water you describe makes me wonder if you might have a cracked or disconnected hose at a cockpit or side deck drain. My boat has four such hoses and failure of any one of them would effectively funnel topside water into the boat. Just a thought.
I have a 1982 Hunter 30. When I acquired the boat, there were water streaks on the side walls all the way around, but only below the waterline, and I concluded that they were from condensation caused by the cold waters of Lake Michigan on hot humid days. There was evidence of a few isolated toe rail leaks and the PO had put silicone sealant along the inside edge of the aluminum toe rail. I'm sure that's not the right way to reseal a toe rail but it's not leaking any more...at least for now. Both hatches were leaking so I removed and reset them in sealant but I have yet to address the weather seal gaskets which also leak a bit when I clean the deck. I don't know how much water your bilge holds, but the quantity of water you describe makes me wonder if you might have a cracked or disconnected hose at a cockpit or side deck drain. My boat has four such hoses and failure of any one of them would effectively funnel topside water into the boat. Just a thought.
I'm not familiar with the 27 but.....
I have a 1982 Hunter 30. When I acquired the boat, there were water streaks on the side walls all the way around, but only below the waterline, and I concluded that they were from condensation caused by the cold waters of Lake Michigan on hot humid days. There was evidence of a few isolated toe rail leaks and the PO had put silicone sealant along the inside edge of the aluminum toe rail. I'm sure that's not the right way to reseal a toe rail but it's not leaking any more...at least for now. Both hatches were leaking so I removed and reset them in sealant but I have yet to address the weather seal gaskets which also leak a bit when I clean the deck. I don't know how much water your bilge holds, but the quantity of water you describe makes me wonder if you might have a cracked or disconnected hose at a cockpit or side deck drain. My boat has four such hoses and failure of any one of them would effectively funnel topside water into the boat. Just a thought.
I have a 1982 Hunter 30. When I acquired the boat, there were water streaks on the side walls all the way around, but only below the waterline, and I concluded that they were from condensation caused by the cold waters of Lake Michigan on hot humid days. There was evidence of a few isolated toe rail leaks and the PO had put silicone sealant along the inside edge of the aluminum toe rail. I'm sure that's not the right way to reseal a toe rail but it's not leaking any more...at least for now. Both hatches were leaking so I removed and reset them in sealant but I have yet to address the weather seal gaskets which also leak a bit when I clean the deck. I don't know how much water your bilge holds, but the quantity of water you describe makes me wonder if you might have a cracked or disconnected hose at a cockpit or side deck drain. My boat has four such hoses and failure of any one of them would effectively funnel topside water into the boat. Just a thought.
First tighten the bolts
The bolts through the toe rail tend to work loose in a season of sailing, and need to be tightened with a socket wrench from underneath annually to prevent leaking on our boat. We also laid a bead of 5200 along the inside edge of the toe rail, which eliminated the residual leaks that persisted because of the breakdown of the sealing compound under the rail. You will have to treat other sources of leaks as you find and verify them. We have replaced or repaired the forward hatch, the mast step, all of the hardware mounts through the roof, and two of the eight windows. I plan to reseat two more windows that are leaking this spring. (Your model probably has opening ports.) A prior owner reseated the lifeline stanchions which were leaking. This is a great cruising design for a couple, but was not designed to last as long as they have. The principle weak point is deterioration of the water sealing as you have discovered. The archives do have descriptions of reseating the toe rail - it's a tedious but straightforward job, but I would undertake it only if my other efforts had failed. David Lady Lillie
The bolts through the toe rail tend to work loose in a season of sailing, and need to be tightened with a socket wrench from underneath annually to prevent leaking on our boat. We also laid a bead of 5200 along the inside edge of the toe rail, which eliminated the residual leaks that persisted because of the breakdown of the sealing compound under the rail. You will have to treat other sources of leaks as you find and verify them. We have replaced or repaired the forward hatch, the mast step, all of the hardware mounts through the roof, and two of the eight windows. I plan to reseat two more windows that are leaking this spring. (Your model probably has opening ports.) A prior owner reseated the lifeline stanchions which were leaking. This is a great cruising design for a couple, but was not designed to last as long as they have. The principle weak point is deterioration of the water sealing as you have discovered. The archives do have descriptions of reseating the toe rail - it's a tedious but straightforward job, but I would undertake it only if my other efforts had failed. David Lady Lillie
First tighten the bolts
The bolts through the toe rail tend to work loose in a season of sailing, and need to be tightened with a socket wrench from underneath annually to prevent leaking on our boat. We also laid a bead of 5200 along the inside edge of the toe rail, which eliminated the residual leaks that persisted because of the breakdown of the sealing compound under the rail. You will have to treat other sources of leaks as you find and verify them. We have replaced or repaired the forward hatch, the mast step, all of the hardware mounts through the roof, and two of the eight windows. I plan to reseat two more windows that are leaking this spring. (Your model probably has opening ports.) A prior owner reseated the lifeline stanchions which were leaking. This is a great cruising design for a couple, but was not designed to last as long as they have. The principle weak point is deterioration of the water sealing as you have discovered. The archives do have descriptions of reseating the toe rail - it's a tedious but straightforward job, but I would undertake it only if my other efforts had failed. David Lady Lillie
The bolts through the toe rail tend to work loose in a season of sailing, and need to be tightened with a socket wrench from underneath annually to prevent leaking on our boat. We also laid a bead of 5200 along the inside edge of the toe rail, which eliminated the residual leaks that persisted because of the breakdown of the sealing compound under the rail. You will have to treat other sources of leaks as you find and verify them. We have replaced or repaired the forward hatch, the mast step, all of the hardware mounts through the roof, and two of the eight windows. I plan to reseat two more windows that are leaking this spring. (Your model probably has opening ports.) A prior owner reseated the lifeline stanchions which were leaking. This is a great cruising design for a couple, but was not designed to last as long as they have. The principle weak point is deterioration of the water sealing as you have discovered. The archives do have descriptions of reseating the toe rail - it's a tedious but straightforward job, but I would undertake it only if my other efforts had failed. David Lady Lillie
thank you David and Dilliance. What about Forward Hatch Gasket?
Thank you David and Dalliance, I appreciate both of your responses. I was starting to think I was going to have to take off the toe rail on both sides. I hope the if I tighten it, the leaks will stop. I'll also seal the edge as you recommended. Concerning a leak at the scupper. I did not think of that. But that might explain why water is in the oil catch area under the motor. I'll take a look and see if it is leaking by crawling back into the quarter birth. I know that forward hatch is leaking. I tried to seal it last year. but I noticed that even know it is completely sealed, the top lid does not fit tightly to the bottom frame. I tried to find some sort of gasket material to make up the difference but have not yet found anything that will fit nicely. Has anyone found a material that will work for this purpose? Skip
Thank you David and Dalliance, I appreciate both of your responses. I was starting to think I was going to have to take off the toe rail on both sides. I hope the if I tighten it, the leaks will stop. I'll also seal the edge as you recommended. Concerning a leak at the scupper. I did not think of that. But that might explain why water is in the oil catch area under the motor. I'll take a look and see if it is leaking by crawling back into the quarter birth. I know that forward hatch is leaking. I tried to seal it last year. but I noticed that even know it is completely sealed, the top lid does not fit tightly to the bottom frame. I tried to find some sort of gasket material to make up the difference but have not yet found anything that will fit nicely. Has anyone found a material that will work for this purpose? Skip
thank you David and Dilliance. What about Forward Hatch Gasket?
Thank you David and Dalliance, I appreciate both of your responses. I was starting to think I was going to have to take off the toe rail on both sides. I hope the if I tighten it, the leaks will stop. I'll also seal the edge as you recommended. Concerning a leak at the scupper. I did not think of that. But that might explain why water is in the oil catch area under the motor. I'll take a look and see if it is leaking by crawling back into the quarter birth. I know that forward hatch is leaking. I tried to seal it last year. but I noticed that even know it is completely sealed, the top lid does not fit tightly to the bottom frame. I tried to find some sort of gasket material to make up the difference but have not yet found anything that will fit nicely. Has anyone found a material that will work for this purpose? Skip
Thank you David and Dalliance, I appreciate both of your responses. I was starting to think I was going to have to take off the toe rail on both sides. I hope the if I tighten it, the leaks will stop. I'll also seal the edge as you recommended. Concerning a leak at the scupper. I did not think of that. But that might explain why water is in the oil catch area under the motor. I'll take a look and see if it is leaking by crawling back into the quarter birth. I know that forward hatch is leaking. I tried to seal it last year. but I noticed that even know it is completely sealed, the top lid does not fit tightly to the bottom frame. I tried to find some sort of gasket material to make up the difference but have not yet found anything that will fit nicely. Has anyone found a material that will work for this purpose? Skip
Lake Erie
Interesting discussion and I'm glad I got the advice on staying ahead of the toe rail bolts every season. I jumped in mainly because I'm in the process of buying a Cherubini-design H-30 at Port Clinton and the surveyor is supposed to go out to the boat the first of next week. I came very close to traveling up there this weekend, but discovered for about the price of my trip I can have a professional survey in hand for my personal assurance (and insurance company to boot-lol!). I'm excited about the purchase but probably best to let a pro look it over instead of letting my emotion or excitement take over and blinding me to any potential problems or warts. I've been assured by the seller there are no mast compression, deck leakage, blistering, or bilge issues, but then again, he's trying to sell a boat- right? If all is well with the survey, I doubt I'll see it until it arrives here, though I'd love to cruise Lake Erie for a week or two before I have it shipped. Just too impractical at this point with my work schedule and having to splash then haul the boat and de-rig it a couple of weeks later.
Interesting discussion and I'm glad I got the advice on staying ahead of the toe rail bolts every season. I jumped in mainly because I'm in the process of buying a Cherubini-design H-30 at Port Clinton and the surveyor is supposed to go out to the boat the first of next week. I came very close to traveling up there this weekend, but discovered for about the price of my trip I can have a professional survey in hand for my personal assurance (and insurance company to boot-lol!). I'm excited about the purchase but probably best to let a pro look it over instead of letting my emotion or excitement take over and blinding me to any potential problems or warts. I've been assured by the seller there are no mast compression, deck leakage, blistering, or bilge issues, but then again, he's trying to sell a boat- right? If all is well with the survey, I doubt I'll see it until it arrives here, though I'd love to cruise Lake Erie for a week or two before I have it shipped. Just too impractical at this point with my work schedule and having to splash then haul the boat and de-rig it a couple of weeks later.
Lake Erie
Interesting discussion and I'm glad I got the advice on staying ahead of the toe rail bolts every season. I jumped in mainly because I'm in the process of buying a Cherubini-design H-30 at Port Clinton and the surveyor is supposed to go out to the boat the first of next week. I came very close to traveling up there this weekend, but discovered for about the price of my trip I can have a professional survey in hand for my personal assurance (and insurance company to boot-lol!). I'm excited about the purchase but probably best to let a pro look it over instead of letting my emotion or excitement take over and blinding me to any potential problems or warts. I've been assured by the seller there are no mast compression, deck leakage, blistering, or bilge issues, but then again, he's trying to sell a boat- right? If all is well with the survey, I doubt I'll see it until it arrives here, though I'd love to cruise Lake Erie for a week or two before I have it shipped. Just too impractical at this point with my work schedule and having to splash then haul the boat and de-rig it a couple of weeks later.
Interesting discussion and I'm glad I got the advice on staying ahead of the toe rail bolts every season. I jumped in mainly because I'm in the process of buying a Cherubini-design H-30 at Port Clinton and the surveyor is supposed to go out to the boat the first of next week. I came very close to traveling up there this weekend, but discovered for about the price of my trip I can have a professional survey in hand for my personal assurance (and insurance company to boot-lol!). I'm excited about the purchase but probably best to let a pro look it over instead of letting my emotion or excitement take over and blinding me to any potential problems or warts. I've been assured by the seller there are no mast compression, deck leakage, blistering, or bilge issues, but then again, he's trying to sell a boat- right? If all is well with the survey, I doubt I'll see it until it arrives here, though I'd love to cruise Lake Erie for a week or two before I have it shipped. Just too impractical at this point with my work schedule and having to splash then haul the boat and de-rig it a couple of weeks later.
Thanks David, good advice.
I'm going to check those toe rail bolts. Never thought of that. Skip, I may get down to the boat this weekend if weather and schedule allow. If I do, I'll take a look at my hatches and see what I can learn. Abby Normal, good luck with that H-30. Dalliance
I'm going to check those toe rail bolts. Never thought of that. Skip, I may get down to the boat this weekend if weather and schedule allow. If I do, I'll take a look at my hatches and see what I can learn. Abby Normal, good luck with that H-30. Dalliance
Thanks David, good advice.
I'm going to check those toe rail bolts. Never thought of that. Skip, I may get down to the boat this weekend if weather and schedule allow. If I do, I'll take a look at my hatches and see what I can learn. Abby Normal, good luck with that H-30. Dalliance
I'm going to check those toe rail bolts. Never thought of that. Skip, I may get down to the boat this weekend if weather and schedule allow. If I do, I'll take a look at my hatches and see what I can learn. Abby Normal, good luck with that H-30. Dalliance
Air vents and Lake Erie
Skipper, when we have water behind or under the engine when Lady Lillie is on the hard, it comes from two aluminum air vents on the stern. The usual scenario is a storm with wind that blows rain into the vents. (For the last two winters, her air vents have faced northeast while on the hard.) Abby, do consider a week of vacation to cruise the island archipelago off Port Clinton before moving your new good old boat. Although busy on summer week-ends, there is lots of room in the ports and anchorages of Kellys, Pelee, (in Canada) and the Bass Islands. Sails between stops are 2 to 4 hours, and the islands are fun and interesting. During the week, the pace is slow, and accommodations are excellent (mooring balls with a water taxi at Put-in-Bay on South Bass, and marinas elsewhere.) Google the area satellite pix, and you can get a good idea of what I am talking about. Consider this cruise, even if you really can't do it. This kind of dreaming is one of the principal off-season joys of owning a boat! The Cherubini designed h30 is a great boat - I know you will enjoy it on Lake Erie, or back home! David Lady Lillie
Skipper, when we have water behind or under the engine when Lady Lillie is on the hard, it comes from two aluminum air vents on the stern. The usual scenario is a storm with wind that blows rain into the vents. (For the last two winters, her air vents have faced northeast while on the hard.) Abby, do consider a week of vacation to cruise the island archipelago off Port Clinton before moving your new good old boat. Although busy on summer week-ends, there is lots of room in the ports and anchorages of Kellys, Pelee, (in Canada) and the Bass Islands. Sails between stops are 2 to 4 hours, and the islands are fun and interesting. During the week, the pace is slow, and accommodations are excellent (mooring balls with a water taxi at Put-in-Bay on South Bass, and marinas elsewhere.) Google the area satellite pix, and you can get a good idea of what I am talking about. Consider this cruise, even if you really can't do it. This kind of dreaming is one of the principal off-season joys of owning a boat! The Cherubini designed h30 is a great boat - I know you will enjoy it on Lake Erie, or back home! David Lady Lillie
Air vents and Lake Erie
Skipper, when we have water behind or under the engine when Lady Lillie is on the hard, it comes from two aluminum air vents on the stern. The usual scenario is a storm with wind that blows rain into the vents. (For the last two winters, her air vents have faced northeast while on the hard.) Abby, do consider a week of vacation to cruise the island archipelago off Port Clinton before moving your new good old boat. Although busy on summer week-ends, there is lots of room in the ports and anchorages of Kellys, Pelee, (in Canada) and the Bass Islands. Sails between stops are 2 to 4 hours, and the islands are fun and interesting. During the week, the pace is slow, and accommodations are excellent (mooring balls with a water taxi at Put-in-Bay on South Bass, and marinas elsewhere.) Google the area satellite pix, and you can get a good idea of what I am talking about. Consider this cruise, even if you really can't do it. This kind of dreaming is one of the principal off-season joys of owning a boat! The Cherubini designed h30 is a great boat - I know you will enjoy it on Lake Erie, or back home! David Lady Lillie
Skipper, when we have water behind or under the engine when Lady Lillie is on the hard, it comes from two aluminum air vents on the stern. The usual scenario is a storm with wind that blows rain into the vents. (For the last two winters, her air vents have faced northeast while on the hard.) Abby, do consider a week of vacation to cruise the island archipelago off Port Clinton before moving your new good old boat. Although busy on summer week-ends, there is lots of room in the ports and anchorages of Kellys, Pelee, (in Canada) and the Bass Islands. Sails between stops are 2 to 4 hours, and the islands are fun and interesting. During the week, the pace is slow, and accommodations are excellent (mooring balls with a water taxi at Put-in-Bay on South Bass, and marinas elsewhere.) Google the area satellite pix, and you can get a good idea of what I am talking about. Consider this cruise, even if you really can't do it. This kind of dreaming is one of the principal off-season joys of owning a boat! The Cherubini designed h30 is a great boat - I know you will enjoy it on Lake Erie, or back home! David Lady Lillie
Find your leaks easily
Tried and true. To determine all your specific leaks and avoid the hunting and guessing you'll need a leaf blower and some plastic and duct tape. Seal up vents, companionway and other areas of gross air leakage like around cockpit lockers. Insert leaf blower into an opening port and seal around it, turn it on and snoop for leaks with soapy water all around the deck, hatches and toerail. The bubbles will show you specific areas to address.
Tried and true. To determine all your specific leaks and avoid the hunting and guessing you'll need a leaf blower and some plastic and duct tape. Seal up vents, companionway and other areas of gross air leakage like around cockpit lockers. Insert leaf blower into an opening port and seal around it, turn it on and snoop for leaks with soapy water all around the deck, hatches and toerail. The bubbles will show you specific areas to address.
Find your leaks easily
Tried and true. To determine all your specific leaks and avoid the hunting and guessing you'll need a leaf blower and some plastic and duct tape. Seal up vents, companionway and other areas of gross air leakage like around cockpit lockers. Insert leaf blower into an opening port and seal around it, turn it on and snoop for leaks with soapy water all around the deck, hatches and toerail. The bubbles will show you specific areas to address.
Tried and true. To determine all your specific leaks and avoid the hunting and guessing you'll need a leaf blower and some plastic and duct tape. Seal up vents, companionway and other areas of gross air leakage like around cockpit lockers. Insert leaf blower into an opening port and seal around it, turn it on and snoop for leaks with soapy water all around the deck, hatches and toerail. The bubbles will show you specific areas to address.
Great advice... I really like the leaf blower idea too.
Hello all, I'm eating up this advice. And I really like the leaf blower idea. Who would have known that a leaf blower had two uses?
I see that several of you sail the port Clinton and Sandusky ports of Lake Erie. I hope to meet you all in time. This spring, I dread all the bolt wholes that I'm going to have to seal up. The one thing I hate doing is sealing up a top side. Seems like the life of a sailor is defined by the number of wholes he seals up. I keep my Hunter in Logan Ohio for now. I put the cradle on a flat bed trailer and trailered it from (East Harbor Marina) to the Hocking Hills so I could be close to it as I work on it. The boat is in great shape inside and out and came with all sorts of extras. I paid 3,000 for it 3 years ago. And I am just now getting to the work. I've been sailing my South Coast Seacraft 22 on Erie during this time. Skip P.S. Is there a message board where many of you Hunter Owners go that sail Lake Erie? Or do most of you hang out here on this forum mostly?
Hello all, I'm eating up this advice. And I really like the leaf blower idea. Who would have known that a leaf blower had two uses?
I see that several of you sail the port Clinton and Sandusky ports of Lake Erie. I hope to meet you all in time. This spring, I dread all the bolt wholes that I'm going to have to seal up. The one thing I hate doing is sealing up a top side. Seems like the life of a sailor is defined by the number of wholes he seals up. I keep my Hunter in Logan Ohio for now. I put the cradle on a flat bed trailer and trailered it from (East Harbor Marina) to the Hocking Hills so I could be close to it as I work on it. The boat is in great shape inside and out and came with all sorts of extras. I paid 3,000 for it 3 years ago. And I am just now getting to the work. I've been sailing my South Coast Seacraft 22 on Erie during this time. Skip P.S. Is there a message board where many of you Hunter Owners go that sail Lake Erie? Or do most of you hang out here on this forum mostly?Great advice... I really like the leaf blower idea too.
Hello all, I'm eating up this advice. And I really like the leaf blower idea. Who would have known that a leaf blower had two uses? I see that several of you sail the port Clinton and Sandusky ports of Lake Erie. I hope to meet you all in time. This spring, I dread all the bolt wholes that I'm going to have to seal up. The one thing I hate doing is sealing up a top side. Seems like the life of a sailor is defined by the number of wholes he seals up. I keep my Hunter in Logan Ohio for now. I put the cradle on a flat bed trailer and trailered it from (East Harbor Marina) to the Hocking Hills so I could be close to it as I work on it. The boat is in great shape inside and out and came with all sorts of extras. I paid 3,000 for it 3 years ago. And I am just now getting to the work. I've been sailing my South Coast Seacraft 22 on Erie during this time. Skip P.S. Is there a message board where many of you Hunter Owners go that sail Lake Erie? Or do most of you hang out here on this forum mostly?
Hello all, I'm eating up this advice. And I really like the leaf blower idea. Who would have known that a leaf blower had two uses?
I see that several of you sail the port Clinton and Sandusky ports of Lake Erie. I hope to meet you all in time. This spring, I dread all the bolt wholes that I'm going to have to seal up. The one thing I hate doing is sealing up a top side. Seems like the life of a sailor is defined by the number of wholes he seals up. I keep my Hunter in Logan Ohio for now. I put the cradle on a flat bed trailer and trailered it from (East Harbor Marina) to the Hocking Hills so I could be close to it as I work on it. The boat is in great shape inside and out and came with all sorts of extras. I paid 3,000 for it 3 years ago. And I am just now getting to the work. I've been sailing my South Coast Seacraft 22 on Erie during this time. Skip P.S. Is there a message board where many of you Hunter Owners go that sail Lake Erie? Or do most of you hang out here on this forum mostly?
Hatch Gaskets
Skipper I got down to the boat this afternoon. The mercury hit 59 degrees, all the snow melted and the yacht yard was a muddy mess. Anyway, here is what I learned about the hatches: They're Bomar, anodized aluminum, with a flat recess on the underside of the hatch lid to receive a 1/2" wide D-shape foam rubber gasket. The gaskets are firmly cemented in place. They appear to seal pretty well if the dogs are tightened down suffiently...I can't see light through them anyway. If I were replacing them, the West Marine catalog (2006) shows a "D-Sponge Gasket" 3/8"H x 1/2"W x 7'L manufactured by Taylor Made Products which looks like it would be the right choice for my '82 h30. Don't know if that helps with your '85 h27 or not.
Skipper I got down to the boat this afternoon. The mercury hit 59 degrees, all the snow melted and the yacht yard was a muddy mess. Anyway, here is what I learned about the hatches: They're Bomar, anodized aluminum, with a flat recess on the underside of the hatch lid to receive a 1/2" wide D-shape foam rubber gasket. The gaskets are firmly cemented in place. They appear to seal pretty well if the dogs are tightened down suffiently...I can't see light through them anyway. If I were replacing them, the West Marine catalog (2006) shows a "D-Sponge Gasket" 3/8"H x 1/2"W x 7'L manufactured by Taylor Made Products which looks like it would be the right choice for my '82 h30. Don't know if that helps with your '85 h27 or not.
Hatch Gaskets
Skipper I got down to the boat this afternoon. The mercury hit 59 degrees, all the snow melted and the yacht yard was a muddy mess. Anyway, here is what I learned about the hatches: They're Bomar, anodized aluminum, with a flat recess on the underside of the hatch lid to receive a 1/2" wide D-shape foam rubber gasket. The gaskets are firmly cemented in place. They appear to seal pretty well if the dogs are tightened down suffiently...I can't see light through them anyway. If I were replacing them, the West Marine catalog (2006) shows a "D-Sponge Gasket" 3/8"H x 1/2"W x 7'L manufactured by Taylor Made Products which looks like it would be the right choice for my '82 h30. Don't know if that helps with your '85 h27 or not.
Skipper I got down to the boat this afternoon. The mercury hit 59 degrees, all the snow melted and the yacht yard was a muddy mess. Anyway, here is what I learned about the hatches: They're Bomar, anodized aluminum, with a flat recess on the underside of the hatch lid to receive a 1/2" wide D-shape foam rubber gasket. The gaskets are firmly cemented in place. They appear to seal pretty well if the dogs are tightened down suffiently...I can't see light through them anyway. If I were replacing them, the West Marine catalog (2006) shows a "D-Sponge Gasket" 3/8"H x 1/2"W x 7'L manufactured by Taylor Made Products which looks like it would be the right choice for my '82 h30. Don't know if that helps with your '85 h27 or not.
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