We recently purchased a 1989 Hunter Legend 37. It is a fantastic boat. The surveyor noted "differential movement between hull and keel along connection line" and loose fairing on the starboard side. He suggested that the torque of the keel bolts be checked. We've since discovered water seeping into the bilge from the keel bolts. Has anyone else run into this problem? If so would you recommend the keel be removed and reattached? What adhesive should the boatyard use, and should new keel bolts be fitted?
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Leeking keel bolt fix
Linda, I had a problem with a leeking keel bolt on my 410. Here's what the Hunter guys recommended (that worked well). You should be able to see a groove where the keel/hull junction is after the boat is pulled. Cut a v-shaped groove about 1/2 inch deep by 1/2 inch wide with a Dremel tool, then fill this groove with 3M 5200. Apparently this area needs to flex a little and it's better to use 5200 that will give a little rather than fiberglassing over this area. You may need to use some fairing material above and below this area as needed. Next cover with epoxy and follow with bottom paint. Check with Hunter for torque specifications for your boat--they vary from model to model. If you isolate a particular keel bolt where water is seeping in, the nut should be backed off and the Dremel tool utilized around the base of the glass around the nut. Fill with 5200 as above, then replace the nut. The stainless keel bolt and nut probably won't need to be replaced unless they appear damaged (not likely). This worked well for me, and was straight from Greg Emerson in customer service. I'd also ask your surveyor exactly what he meant by his description of your discontinuity between keel and hull. If he simply meant that he saw a slightly open groove between the two, then the above fix should be satisfactory without trying to remove the keel. Best of luck, Chris Webb
Linda, I had a problem with a leeking keel bolt on my 410. Here's what the Hunter guys recommended (that worked well). You should be able to see a groove where the keel/hull junction is after the boat is pulled. Cut a v-shaped groove about 1/2 inch deep by 1/2 inch wide with a Dremel tool, then fill this groove with 3M 5200. Apparently this area needs to flex a little and it's better to use 5200 that will give a little rather than fiberglassing over this area. You may need to use some fairing material above and below this area as needed. Next cover with epoxy and follow with bottom paint. Check with Hunter for torque specifications for your boat--they vary from model to model. If you isolate a particular keel bolt where water is seeping in, the nut should be backed off and the Dremel tool utilized around the base of the glass around the nut. Fill with 5200 as above, then replace the nut. The stainless keel bolt and nut probably won't need to be replaced unless they appear damaged (not likely). This worked well for me, and was straight from Greg Emerson in customer service. I'd also ask your surveyor exactly what he meant by his description of your discontinuity between keel and hull. If he simply meant that he saw a slightly open groove between the two, then the above fix should be satisfactory without trying to remove the keel. Best of luck, Chris Webb
Thanks
Thanks Chris. My only reservation is that we have 3 or 4 keel bolts leaking and a fair bit of movement in the keel. Also, the fairing is loose. We will keep you posted
Thanks Chris. My only reservation is that we have 3 or 4 keel bolts leaking and a fair bit of movement in the keel. Also, the fairing is loose. We will keep you posted
Leaking keel bolts.
Linda, like my H37C, I think your keel is lead with stainless bolts imbedded. Are they easily accessible? Mine are and I carry a large deep socket in my tool kit, bought it at Sears. Cannot remember the size unfortunately but yours could be different anyway. Buy one and see how many turns you can take on those nuts. If tightening stops the leaks then I would do as Chris suggests next time boat is out of the water. Just dremmel and fill with 5200. If the leaks do not stop with tightening then you might try loosening one at a time and putting 4200(not 5200) under the washer. You will want the bilge dry at that point. The better option is to hang the boat and loosen all the bolts about two inches. Clean and dry the space before filling with 5200, around the bolts and the perimeter of the keel joint(about 1/2 inch from edge). Tighten the bolts but not all the way, just until the 5200 begins to squeeze out. Go around to each bolt a turn or two at a time so it pulls up evenly after the 5200 sets. Then you might have to fair the joint. You could use 5200 for that but bottom paint will not adhere. If you do not mind the white stripe at least the 5200 will flex and not crack like an epoxy fairing. Good luck.
Linda, like my H37C, I think your keel is lead with stainless bolts imbedded. Are they easily accessible? Mine are and I carry a large deep socket in my tool kit, bought it at Sears. Cannot remember the size unfortunately but yours could be different anyway. Buy one and see how many turns you can take on those nuts. If tightening stops the leaks then I would do as Chris suggests next time boat is out of the water. Just dremmel and fill with 5200. If the leaks do not stop with tightening then you might try loosening one at a time and putting 4200(not 5200) under the washer. You will want the bilge dry at that point. The better option is to hang the boat and loosen all the bolts about two inches. Clean and dry the space before filling with 5200, around the bolts and the perimeter of the keel joint(about 1/2 inch from edge). Tighten the bolts but not all the way, just until the 5200 begins to squeeze out. Go around to each bolt a turn or two at a time so it pulls up evenly after the 5200 sets. Then you might have to fair the joint. You could use 5200 for that but bottom paint will not adhere. If you do not mind the white stripe at least the 5200 will flex and not crack like an epoxy fairing. Good luck.
Leeking Keel Bolts Follow Up
Thanks very much for your detailed advice. We spoke with our surveyor earlier today and he recommended the option of dropping the keel down (while still leaving the tops of the bolts in the hull), cleaning out the old sealant/adhesive, adding new sealant/adhesive then bolting it back up again. He recommended against tightening up without this process as that will still leave water coming in between the keel and the hull and into the bottom of the fiberglass hole that the bolts go through. Hopefully his recommended fix will not cost a fortune!
Thanks very much for your detailed advice. We spoke with our surveyor earlier today and he recommended the option of dropping the keel down (while still leaving the tops of the bolts in the hull), cleaning out the old sealant/adhesive, adding new sealant/adhesive then bolting it back up again. He recommended against tightening up without this process as that will still leave water coming in between the keel and the hull and into the bottom of the fiberglass hole that the bolts go through. Hopefully his recommended fix will not cost a fortune!
Keel's coming off
Linda, I too have had a leaking bolt and after much research and differing opinions I feel that the only way to be happy and safe is to remove the keel and inspect the problem. You won't feel as if you have done the right thing unless you know exactly what is down there. My boat is being slipped on Monday 3rd of March at Noakes slipway in Sydney. You are welcome to come and look at the result. Call me on 0414522445 Kevin Gregory Boat name LANDIN
Linda, I too have had a leaking bolt and after much research and differing opinions I feel that the only way to be happy and safe is to remove the keel and inspect the problem. You won't feel as if you have done the right thing unless you know exactly what is down there. My boat is being slipped on Monday 3rd of March at Noakes slipway in Sydney. You are welcome to come and look at the result. Call me on 0414522445 Kevin Gregory Boat name LANDIN
Surveyor Good Idea
Think that was a very good idea you did hiring a surveyor for that particular problem. Since you have one on-board, ask him what are the critical steps and what to look out for. A suggestion, if he's close by and it doesn't cost too much maybe use him as an inspector?
Think that was a very good idea you did hiring a surveyor for that particular problem. Since you have one on-board, ask him what are the critical steps and what to look out for. A suggestion, if he's close by and it doesn't cost too much maybe use him as an inspector?
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