The very first thing is to insist restraining chains be put on the stands to keep them from accidentally pulling apart or you will have more damage then ever.
It has been some time since I saw but if this is the top of the ballast tank, the first thing is to drain immediately all water from the ballast tank and of course you do this by this by going to the most bottom step, pull it up and loosed the big ole wing nut and push it down and if necessary with the foot. Also make sure that the drain bail plug that allows air to enter or escape the chamber is open.
Here is what I would have done. I would cut the area out of course making sure this is where the water is comeing from making an oval cut. Then I would take the edge of the hole and sand them from the inside to the outside at least a 45% angle or more. Then, I would take sandpaper say like 120 grit and sand about an inch on the inside of the tank around the edges to clean off any scum and get an good adhesion surface.
I would then cut a piece of cardboard with string big enough to cover the hole by an inch to 1 1/2 inches. As for the string, I would then put it thru the cardboard and back out so to hold the cardboard in place. I would then cut two pieces of fiberglass cloth cut to the size of the cardboard and string the string thru it as well. I would then take resin mixed with resin, gel coat and hardner mixing very well coating the cardboard first and then the first layer of glass and then the next. You will need to add more hardner to kick it off quicker for the first application. Regarding the harner, standard hardner is a lower temp. hardner used for fiberglass and gel coat requies a higher temp. hardner. Just make sure you have it.
the I would insert the cardboard into the hole and hold it against the interior of the tank lid until it kicks and holds in place. Let it dry overnight. This gives you a base which to work from plus a locking base. Now I would then cut a layer of glass to fit the hole only and each successive layer larger to overlap only with the angled edges coming out. Instead of usual hardner, I would use gel coat again using the higher temp harner and a little resin and apply. Please understand that you will then need to dry overnight as this drys slower than reg. hardner. Also make sure you either roll out the air bubbles with a resin roller or brush and also making the layer of glass smooth. Apply more fiberglass unitl even with the tank lid. Then I would spray a little black or gray paint and sand over to find the valleys. Then add a finishing filler epoxy of course and I always used Water Tite. Again that drys overnight. Wet sand smooth and apply a finishing coat of gel coat and let dry and then you are done.
Not sure how that crack would have occurred unless you hit something or the placement of straps earlier would have caused that. It could have happened either loading or unloading from the trailer or placement of earlier stands. One other thing I would look at are the forward bunk boards to make sure they are not going up into the hull and that can be corrected thru adjustment.
I know this is long but at least you have an idea how I would as a dealer and one involved with these boats would have repaired it for you. Good luck sir.
One other thing about the gel coat vs. all resin, gel coat is generally not pourous and many use the pourous style resin.
crazy dave condon
