leading control lines aft

[Wayne Steinhour]

I am looking into lead control lines aft on my 23, and I have a few questions.

There is not much space between the hatch and the deckrails on this boat to run the lines. How have other people solved this problem? I was thinking of mounting deck organizers on blocks of wood so that the lines clear over the top of the rail and hatch.

Would cam cleats be adequate for cleating the halyards and reef lines, or do I need to spend the money on rope clutches?

Should I expect that I will need a winch on the main halyard? It currently seems pretty easy to raise, but I am not sure how much resistance a couple of turning blocks will add.

Should I plan for a downhaul for the main?

This is probably a dumb question. For reefing, I now use a hook on the forward end of the boom. I would need to rig lines up for the forward end instead. My main has slugs that slide in the slot on the mast. Currently when I reef, I pull the plug out of the slot so the bottom couple of slugs can slide out. Is this not necessary? When I rig up a forward reefing line, should I be able to pull it tight with all of the slugs plugged up above the opening for the boom gooseneck?

 

[Stu Jackson]

I did this with our C22 many years ago. All it takes are three lines (unless you have a roller furler on your jib, so only two lines are needed): jib halyard, main halyard and jib downhaul. The latter can run outside using the stanchions. See the picture below.

I found no need for a winch for either halyard for a boat of that size. Cam cleats are not a good idea, just use a cleat.

I didn't buy deck organizers, only used stand-up and cheek blocks, pretty easy.

If you want to run reefing back, then either reconsider or add two more blocks. I didn't find it necessary to run reefing lines back, some do.

For the vang, I just flipped it so the block with the cam cleat on it was on the boom and I could reach it easily from the cockpit.

It would help a little if you described the lines you want to run aft.

As far as the slugs are concerned, Google or do a search here on "mast gate" and read what's available.

Good luck, good idea.

 

[Joe11688]

I am looking into lead control lines aft on my 23, and I have a few questions.

There is not much space between the hatch and the deckrails on this boat to run the lines. How have other people solved this problem? I was thinking of mounting deck organizers on blocks of wood so that the lines clear over the top of the rail and hatch.

Would cam cleats be adequate for cleating the halyards and reef lines, or do I need to spend the money on rope clutches?

Should I expect that I will need a winch on the main halyard? It currently seems pretty easy to raise, but I am not sure how much resistance a couple of turning blocks will add.

Should I plan for a downhaul for the main?

This is probably a dumb question. For reefing, I now use a hook on the forward end of the boom. I would need to rig lines up for the forward end instead. My main has slugs that slide in the slot on the mast. Currently when I reef, I pull the plug out of the slot so the bottom couple of slugs can slide out. Is this not necessary? When I rig up a forward reefing line, should I be able to pull it tight with all of the slugs plugged up above the opening for the boom gooseneck?

If you sail on Lake Michigan I can understand why you would want to lead your halyards back to the cockpit on your boat. The bays I sail very seldom ever get so turbulent that I would need or even want that halyard set up on my boat. Even though I don't favor halyards led back to the cockpit, it's not for me talk anyone out of it.

A guy on the forum named Rich has a nice halyard set up on his O'Day 25 that you need to check out. Maybe he'll chime in on it.

If you have a utility plate mounted under your mast tabernacle with holes around it, all you need is the single sheaves for it. As for the cheek blocks or pad eye blocks, you're going to have to look into it yourself and see what is going to fit in the alloted space.
I don't know much about rope clutches but I think I would want mine made of metal. The darn things are pricey though, but what ain't.

In fact, I don't think I'd even go with rope clutches. I would maybe go with horn jam cleats. These are the type that need to be mounted at an angle to the direction in which the rope is coming from in order for it to snub right with a single turn of the halyard.
Rope clutches have a built in fair lead and if you let your halyard off, it could get caught in it but of course you're going to be right there to straighten it out but what if you're at the mast trying to put in a reef and the line gets caught? With the jam cleat, there isn't much chance of that because there is no fair lead.

Why would you be standing at the mast reefing,-- anyway? Well, if your 23 mast set up is like my 222, you may need to drop the last sail slug out of the mast slot before reefing it or it's going to bind after you lower the sail and pull on the reefing line. There shouldn't be any tension on that last slide after you lower the mainsail and put the reefing grommet in the ram's horn. The tension should be on the horn and the grommet. Too much tension on that last slide can break it. Then on the other hand, it's possible that you don't have to remove the sail slide.

The first pic shows the jam horn cleat. I use it for my furler drum line. I couldn't very well mount it on and angle because my combing is too narrow, but the placement of the sheave provides the needed angle provided that I take a CCW turn around the cleat.

In the second pic you can see the sail slug out of the mast.

These are just a few things that you can ponder while you are deciding which path to take on this.

Joe

 

[ruidh]

I'd like to run my main halyard back to the cockpit, but my mainsail slugs tend to get stuck when they pass the removable gate. I have to stand by the mast when raising to give them a push.

 

[Gaf]

Hi Rudih, on my 23 there is a hole in the mast, just above the gate for the sail slugs. I always install a cotter pin, below the slugs, to prevent happening what you are speaking of. I of course put sail tape over it to prevent sail tears. Whenever I want to furl the main, I do have to pull out this pin though.

 

[RichBone]

 

[AWalker]

Nice job bringing the lines aft, but what is most fascinating is your anti gravity mast!

 

[Indysailor]

I thought it was the special Z-Spar Invisible mast.

 

[Joe11688]

I have to admit. That is really a neat set up.

 

[Wayne Steinhour]

RBone, I like the looks of your setup. What model boat do you have? It looks like you may have a little more room between your handrail and hatch than I do.

I am thinking of using rope clutches, partly to save space. Spinlock's minijammer can fit 2 or 3 lines in a small space and they are not as pricy as most clutches. One drawback of them is that I think I would need to buy braided lines for the halyards. According to the company, they are designed to work with braided lines. Does anyone know whether they would hold moderately well for 3-strand lines? For example, a downhaul or my lazyjack lines would not have a lot of tension on them. Would a small rope clutch work well enough for them? I hate to buy fancy braided rope when cheaper 3-strand stuff will do just as well.

 

[RichBone]

3-strand for the halyards???
I used a cam cleat for the cunningham. Pic next time I get to the boat

 

[emergpa1]

If you sail on Lake Michigan I can understand why you would want to lead your halyards back to the cockpit on your boat. The bays I sail very seldom ever get so turbulent that I would need or even want that halyard set up on my boat. Even though I don't favor halyards led back to the cockpit, it's not for me talk anyone out of it.

A guy on the forum named Rich has a nice halyard set up on his O'Day 25 that you need to check out. Maybe he'll chime in on it.

If you have a utility plate mounted under your mast tabernacle with holes around it, all you need is the single sheaves for it. As for the cheek blocks or pad eye blocks, you're going to have to look into it yourself and see what is going to fit in the alloted space.
I don't know much about rope clutches but I think I would want mine made of metal. The darn things are pricey though, but what ain't.

In fact, I don't think I'd even go with rope clutches. I would maybe go with horn jam cleats. These are the type that need to be mounted at an angle to the direction in which the rope is coming from in order for it to snub right with a single turn of the halyard.
Rope clutches have a built in fair lead and if you let your halyard off, it could get caught in it but of course you're going to be right there to straighten it out but what if you're at the mast trying to put in a reef and the line gets caught? With the jam cleat, there isn't much chance of that because there is no fair lead.

Why would you be standing at the mast reefing,-- anyway? Well, if your 23 mast set up is like my 222, you may need to drop the last sail slug out of the mast slot before reefing it or it's going to bind after you lower the sail and pull on the reefing line. There shouldn't be any tension on that last slide after you lower the mainsail and put the reefing grommet in the ram's horn. The tension should be on the horn and the grommet. Too much tension on that last slide can break it. Then on the other hand, it's possible that you don't have to remove the sail slide.

The first pic shows the jam horn cleat. I use it for my furler drum line. I couldn't very well mount it on and angle because my combing is too narrow, but the placement of the sheave provides the needed angle provided that I take a CCW turn around the cleat.

In the second pic you can see the sail slug out of the mast.

These are just a few things that you can ponder while you are deciding which path to take on this.

Joe

Joe,
I'm bringing My Girl up to you for outfitting and obedience training.
Keith

 

[Joe11688]

Joe,
I'm bringing My Girl up to you for outfitting and obedience training.
Keith

That sounds like a plan Keith. I'll be glad when I can get my boat back in the water again. I've been hanging around the house climbing the walls for weeks now.

Joe