The lower trailing edge of my lead keel suffered at the hands of Irene last fall. I'm wondering whether heat and a broad vise might do the trick and let me bend it back. Obviously any repair will involve filling and fairing. See pix of damage. I would appreciate any ideas or suggestions.
Lead keel repair
- Thread starter Fogg
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Lead is very malleable. I would pound it back into shape. Some material may be lost, but from the looks of it, not too much. Then fair it all in with some quality filler, like an epoxy mix. That should do it for another 20 years....
L
Google the Web on this, but adhering epoxy to lead requires some specific technique to be successful. It has to be pristine clean and the first roll-on application of resin/hardener must be without any fairing or thickening additives. Lead oxidizes almost instantly, so do DA sanding (using a vacuum attachment and a respirator, while working upwind) and then do an immediate application of epoxy. I've read it's also necessary to use a S.S. brush on the application to grind it into the lead even further, so that's what I did. Home Depot/Lowes has S.S. BBQ grill brushes that work for this just fine.
While at HD/Lowes, get two plastic drywall mud pans and some large plastic drywall mud "knives". It's handy to have more than one size to spread with. Don't dab that stuff on in little bits, spread it like drywall mud and mix it to that consistency. Don't go too thick in depth, however, because it will sag. Keep after it until it sets up. You'll have to sand the previous application so the next one will adhere to it. Keeping the layers smooth helps with the sanding part. The plastic trowels and pans are reusable, just peel off the old hardened epoxy and go with as many layers as you think are needed. Low Density fillers are easier to sand. Top off with a final roll-on of "neat" epoxy (using no filler) and then hand sand that lightly, so the bottom paint will bite to it.
Good Luck!
While at HD/Lowes, get two plastic drywall mud pans and some large plastic drywall mud "knives". It's handy to have more than one size to spread with. Don't dab that stuff on in little bits, spread it like drywall mud and mix it to that consistency. Don't go too thick in depth, however, because it will sag. Keep after it until it sets up. You'll have to sand the previous application so the next one will adhere to it. Keeping the layers smooth helps with the sanding part. The plastic trowels and pans are reusable, just peel off the old hardened epoxy and go with as many layers as you think are needed. Low Density fillers are easier to sand. Top off with a final roll-on of "neat" epoxy (using no filler) and then hand sand that lightly, so the bottom paint will bite to it.
Good Luck!
I would use either a hammer and a piece of 2x4 to pound against or some steel strips and a few C-clamps to bend it back. Then see above for the epoxy seal if you think you need it.
However Catalina put lead pellets into the empty fiberglass shell. So it looks like the damage is fiberglass not metal. You can do it yourself or get a surf board shop guy that know how to use fiberglass if you don't. Looks like an easy fix either way. Sand the area around the damage down to the fiberglass and into it a little. Add some resin to fill the area and cover with fiberglass, and more resin. Sand down, a little more resin and your done!
However Catalina put lead pellets into the empty fiberglass shell. So it looks like the damage is fiberglass not metal. You can do it yourself or get a surf board shop guy that know how to use fiberglass if you don't. Looks like an easy fix either way. Sand the area around the damage down to the fiberglass and into it a little. Add some resin to fill the area and cover with fiberglass, and more resin. Sand down, a little more resin and your done!
Brad's right that the trailing edge has fairing/bondo and fiberglass cloth already on it. Try some 50 grit on the DA and see what you got there. The keel on my '84 C-30 is a big lead slab, however.
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