I am going to make a set of lazy jacks since the cost is so outrageous for some line and a few blocks. I was wondering what the conventional wisdom is with block placement? Should I put check blocks on the mast or blocks on the spreaders? Thanks, Barry
Lazy Jacks
- Thread starter Barry14722
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No cheek blocks.
When I was investigating I could not save by making my own. Or very little. And the set that I bought uses no blocks and they retract to the mast. I use them only when single handing but they work very well. My one concern was how the stretch cord would hold up to weather. After six years they work as well as ever. I see that the price has gone up but if you make yours with cheek blocks it could be expensive. Maybe you could get some ideas from their website: http://www.ezjax.com/ . There are many DIY plans around for making a set that explain where to place the hardware. Just google "lazy jacks plans".
When I was investigating I could not save by making my own. Or very little. And the set that I bought uses no blocks and they retract to the mast. I use them only when single handing but they work very well. My one concern was how the stretch cord would hold up to weather. After six years they work as well as ever. I see that the price has gone up but if you make yours with cheek blocks it could be expensive. Maybe you could get some ideas from their website: http://www.ezjax.com/ . There are many DIY plans around for making a set that explain where to place the hardware. Just google "lazy jacks plans".
I also did what Ed did but made my own .....
I use two 'bullet' cheek blocks up on the mast below the spreaders, and small (Harken) bullet blocks for the 'connections' other than than all you need is some small strap eyes and a ball of 'parachute cord'. Cost is about $30 for a large boat. Even with 'stretchy' parachute cord, I control a 9.8oz. weight. 400 sq. ft. main sail. with ease, even when taking up a third reef in the main (--- can reefing deep into a second reef with NO need to tie in the 'bunts' --- the third reef needs some 'help'). Only 'problem' is that you dont want to 'store' the setup along the mast, as if a heavy wind comes up the bullet blocks can wear a hole into the mast if they vibrate. see Ed's posting of the website.
I use two 'bullet' cheek blocks up on the mast below the spreaders, and small (Harken) bullet blocks for the 'connections' other than than all you need is some small strap eyes and a ball of 'parachute cord'. Cost is about $30 for a large boat. Even with 'stretchy' parachute cord, I control a 9.8oz. weight. 400 sq. ft. main sail. with ease, even when taking up a third reef in the main (--- can reefing deep into a second reef with NO need to tie in the 'bunts' --- the third reef needs some 'help'). Only 'problem' is that you dont want to 'store' the setup along the mast, as if a heavy wind comes up the bullet blocks can wear a hole into the mast if they vibrate. see Ed's posting of the website.
I have a pdf file of their manual that has all of the measurements
and attachment locations depending on boom and mast length. Tried to post here but pdf file is 800kb and limit here is 500kb. Send me your email address and I will send as an attachment. Frank
and attachment locations depending on boom and mast length. Tried to post here but pdf file is 800kb and limit here is 500kb. Send me your email address and I will send as an attachment. Frank
shhh don't tell phil.... Where there is a will there is a way.
I uploaded the Pdf file to Macgregor 25 information section where apparently it is ok to upload files larger than 500kb. It really is a pretty detailed manual. I just replaced the worn out cables on mine. Not a big deal to build from scratch. Here is the link. Click on the pdf icon at the bottom of the page.
I uploaded the Pdf file to Macgregor 25 information section where apparently it is ok to upload files larger than 500kb. It really is a pretty detailed manual. I just replaced the worn out cables on mine. Not a big deal to build from scratch. Here is the link. Click on the pdf icon at the bottom of the page.
The first thing about lazy Jacks is to determine
if you really need them. The Jacks bring some inherent disadvantages and can be a source of frustration if the service they perform is not really necessary. On the other hand if the mainsail is large and heavy making it cumbersome for one person to handle it they are worth every penny and every inconvenience.
if you really need them. The Jacks bring some inherent disadvantages and can be a source of frustration if the service they perform is not really necessary. On the other hand if the mainsail is large and heavy making it cumbersome for one person to handle it they are worth every penny and every inconvenience.
I like mine
mounted on the underside of the spreaders about a foot away from the mast...this give me a bigger throat and I have eliminated problums with catching them over the spreader ends... and being wider apart helps with full battened mains.. As long as you lower with tension on the head board I have no problum with them feeding properly even though not extending up the mast above spreader height.
mounted on the underside of the spreaders about a foot away from the mast...this give me a bigger throat and I have eliminated problums with catching them over the spreader ends... and being wider apart helps with full battened mains.. As long as you lower with tension on the head board I have no problum with them feeding properly even though not extending up the mast above spreader height.
Worth The Trouble
I have had them on my Vision 32 and now on my 40.5. It took some time to figure out how to raise the sail w/o hanging up a batten. On my 40.5, I rigged them as retractable. I retract them in order to use a standard sail cover and I have them retracted when I raise the sail, thus eliminating batten fouling. I deploy them before dropping the main. Then, after putting on the sail ties, I retract the LJ to put the cover on. Pretty slick deal. No blocks, just rope to rope in the LJ rig. RD
I have had them on my Vision 32 and now on my 40.5. It took some time to figure out how to raise the sail w/o hanging up a batten. On my 40.5, I rigged them as retractable. I retract them in order to use a standard sail cover and I have them retracted when I raise the sail, thus eliminating batten fouling. I deploy them before dropping the main. Then, after putting on the sail ties, I retract the LJ to put the cover on. Pretty slick deal. No blocks, just rope to rope in the LJ rig. RD
Question For Rick D
Rick, You mentioned no blocks? Is this a kit or did you make it yourself? Pictures would be great if you have some.
Rick, You mentioned no blocks? Is this a kit or did you make it yourself? Pictures would be great if you have some.
Barry, re: No Blocks
I had a stack-pack type rig. I got rid of it and converted the rig ot the lazy jacks. The rig simply has loops tied in it that the lines pass through. There is some friction but generally they stay in one position when deployed, so who cares? I was going to put blocks on but there is no reason to. BTW, it is just like any other lazy jack system. Mine goes down from the upper spreaders to a loop, down from there to another loop and then to the boom. Total jacks = four per side. RD
I had a stack-pack type rig. I got rid of it and converted the rig ot the lazy jacks. The rig simply has loops tied in it that the lines pass through. There is some friction but generally they stay in one position when deployed, so who cares? I was going to put blocks on but there is no reason to. BTW, it is just like any other lazy jack system. Mine goes down from the upper spreaders to a loop, down from there to another loop and then to the boom. Total jacks = four per side. RD
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