In installing a small 2 1/2 gal Tiny Tim water heater beneath the sink cabinet in the head on my 79 H33, I must have nudged the sink drain hose and thruhull a bit. a bit was enough to break it completely off! so now I'm staring at the great out of doors through the hole with water lapping over the lip. The thruhull was crystallized and brittle, from age and uv exposure. In a recent refit, I had taken out the below water bronze thruhulls and finding them in good condition, reinstalled them. This particular small 1" plastic thruhull, being at about water line, I ignored, unwisely, it turns out. Since it is about at water line, at least with a lightly laden H33, I was able to replace it without pulling it out of the water but I am posting this to suggest that other H33 owners check and replace this rather easliy accessed piece of hardware if you think the thruhull is original to the boat. Failure when deeply laden or heeling on a port tack could easily bring aboard a lot of water fast.
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Sink thruhull
Had the same fitting crack but not come off on my 27 several years ago.Went for a great sail sometime afterwards and water traveled along port berth,into locker beneath till overflowed bilge on leeward side.PANIC CITY,took forever to figure where from[should have figured right away as berth cushion made a good sponge].Cheap plastic thruhull should be replaced no matter how good it may look.
Had the same fitting crack but not come off on my 27 several years ago.Went for a great sail sometime afterwards and water traveled along port berth,into locker beneath till overflowed bilge on leeward side.PANIC CITY,took forever to figure where from[should have figured right away as berth cushion made a good sponge].Cheap plastic thruhull should be replaced no matter how good it may look.
Same thing
happened on our H36. Sink drain thru-hull would leak enough to collect a little water under the sink. Only happened when waves lapped high enough or was healed to stbd enough to submerge the thru-hull. Had me baffled for quite a while. Go figure. Mike s/v Charisma 82 H36
happened on our H36. Sink drain thru-hull would leak enough to collect a little water under the sink. Only happened when waves lapped high enough or was healed to stbd enough to submerge the thru-hull. Had me baffled for quite a while. Go figure. Mike s/v Charisma 82 H36
Replacement thru-hulls
I am replacing ALL thru-hulls my 1974 H-25 with ones of Forespar 'Marelon'. These are resin-impregnated fibre fittings with the strength of most metals and will never corrode from electrolysis nor UV rays. They only LOOK like cheap nylon fittings; they are three times the price however. The matching Marelon seacocks carry some many decades' warranty. This stuff is industry standard on quality boats and has my full confidence. Don't settle for junk when replacing. -- JC
I am replacing ALL thru-hulls my 1974 H-25 with ones of Forespar 'Marelon'. These are resin-impregnated fibre fittings with the strength of most metals and will never corrode from electrolysis nor UV rays. They only LOOK like cheap nylon fittings; they are three times the price however. The matching Marelon seacocks carry some many decades' warranty. This stuff is industry standard on quality boats and has my full confidence. Don't settle for junk when replacing. -- JC
The above
waterline bilge pump plastic thru hull on my h36 broke from only the pressure of pumping water through it. Agree with JC II about Marelon and now they are even better with an improved handle. BTW, ABYC recommends seacocks be installed to the extreme heeling angle of the topsides.
waterline bilge pump plastic thru hull on my h36 broke from only the pressure of pumping water through it. Agree with JC II about Marelon and now they are even better with an improved handle. BTW, ABYC recommends seacocks be installed to the extreme heeling angle of the topsides.
Mine was in good shape, replaced it...
anyway. I had to raise my water line a bit, this fitting was just at/below the water line so I decided to replace it with bronze thur hull fitting and added a bronze/S.S. ball valve shut off. I also backed the thur hull fitting with a backing plate made from fiberglass and used 5200 to set everything in. My plastic fittng was still in good condition. To my surprise, it seemed new and had to grind it out cause the plastic nut was seized. Terry, you were lucky your boat stills floats high, mine's full of "stuff" so I would not have been so lucky.
anyway. I had to raise my water line a bit, this fitting was just at/below the water line so I decided to replace it with bronze thur hull fitting and added a bronze/S.S. ball valve shut off. I also backed the thur hull fitting with a backing plate made from fiberglass and used 5200 to set everything in. My plastic fittng was still in good condition. To my surprise, it seemed new and had to grind it out cause the plastic nut was seized. Terry, you were lucky your boat stills floats high, mine's full of "stuff" so I would not have been so lucky.
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