Launched my boat for the first time today. Putting it in the water was pretty easy.I backed the boat down the ramp until all the bunk boards except the front 4 inches were under water and then pulled the trailer forward and the boat slid off the trailer. When I was ready to pull the boat out of the water I backed the trailer down the ramp the same distance with the front 4 inches of the bunks out of the water. Then I started to winch the boat up to the two Y shaped bumpers in front of the winch , but the cable was dragging across the bottom bumper. This didn't seem right so I tried to pull the trailer up the ramp to let back of the boat go down (at this point it was floating). When the back of the boat went down and the front came up the boat still needed to come forward to the winch about 1 foot. I could pull it with the winch, but it seemed like was really taking a lot of force. My question is should I be backing the trailer deeper in the water and is having to pull the boat forward after pulling the trailer up the ramp normal procedure. Any insight would be appreciated.
Launching Hunter 23
- Thread starter RLW
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I think you'd be better off going a bit deeper launching and retrieving, but especially retrieving. I like my boat to float off the bunks, not have the trailer pulled out from under it - too much risk of it sticking and then dropping the keel in shallow water.
Retrieving with the bunks submerged may still require you to work the boat forward a bit after it's out of the water but it shouldn't be quite as difficult if the boat is able to float all the way forward on the bunks. That presumes that, unlike my trailer, your winch is higher than the bow eye.
Anyway, that's my 2 cents, take it for what it's worth 8^D
Retrieving with the bunks submerged may still require you to work the boat forward a bit after it's out of the water but it shouldn't be quite as difficult if the boat is able to float all the way forward on the bunks. That presumes that, unlike my trailer, your winch is higher than the bow eye.
Anyway, that's my 2 cents, take it for what it's worth 8^D
I agree with sinnettc regarding bunks underwater. Trying to drag your boat up the bunks doesn't work well. It is best to draw the boat as far toward the winch as possible with it still floating, and then haul out which has the effect of lowering the boat onto the bunks and bed. Once level, draw the winch as tightly as possible and road vibration will cause it to ease forward as you go to your parking place to step the mast. Once road ready, winch it some more and again road vibration/braking will work it forward. I often will stop one more time a few miles down the road to check things one last time and give the winch handle a tug.
I have devised a guide system to place the keel center so as to be able to do this single handed.
I have devised a guide system to place the keel center so as to be able to do this single handed.
A longer drop on your hitch will level the trailer some and make it easier to pull the boat forward.
Can not be correct
You must submerge the front of the trailer bunks by about 1 to 2 inches to properly load your boat. If they are not deep enough in the water you're using to much force winching the hull up out of the water.
Think about it! This driving around and additional winching with the boat out of the water can not be correct.
The trailer must be deep enough to float the boat on the trailer, I suggest 1 to 2 inches deep so you can see the front edge of the bunks for alignment, this also adds a little resistance to the bottom of hull to keep the boat from floating sideways.
You must submerge the front of the trailer bunks by about 1 to 2 inches to properly load your boat. If they are not deep enough in the water you're using to much force winching the hull up out of the water.
Think about it! This driving around and additional winching with the boat out of the water can not be correct.
The trailer must be deep enough to float the boat on the trailer, I suggest 1 to 2 inches deep so you can see the front edge of the bunks for alignment, this also adds a little resistance to the bottom of hull to keep the boat from floating sideways.
When I launched I had the tongue extension out and the rear wheels of the truck just touching the water. It didn't seem like I was deep enough, but when the boat came off the trailer fairly easy I thought maybe it was ok. Next time I'll submerge the bunks and see how that works. Thanks everyone for the input.
Get'r wet!
Everyone seams to have this feeling that you can not get your tires wet. Surely you don’t stay home when it rains.
Salt water, here in central Pennsylvania they salt the highways from Thanksgiving to Easter, I noticed yesterday the state maintenance trucks already have that equipment installed.
Water can do damage to the gears in the rear end but, this area is sealed, in case it does rain. It does have a breather pipe that is attached to the under side of the frame, just above the axle, so for water to enter this breather you would have to submerge 1/2 your pickup bed or fill 1/2 the trunk of your car.
Exhaust system, when you shut your engine down on a cool night this hot system will sweat on the inside and water will come out the tailpipe in the morning, look at the bottom end of your muffler, there’s a drain hole for this moisture.
Everyone seams to have this feeling that you can not get your tires wet. Surely you don’t stay home when it rains.
Salt water, here in central Pennsylvania they salt the highways from Thanksgiving to Easter, I noticed yesterday the state maintenance trucks already have that equipment installed.
Water can do damage to the gears in the rear end but, this area is sealed, in case it does rain. It does have a breather pipe that is attached to the under side of the frame, just above the axle, so for water to enter this breather you would have to submerge 1/2 your pickup bed or fill 1/2 the trunk of your car.
Exhaust system, when you shut your engine down on a cool night this hot system will sweat on the inside and water will come out the tailpipe in the morning, look at the bottom end of your muffler, there’s a drain hole for this moisture.
What everybody is saying is correct. Let the water level bring the boat onto the trailer - not the winch. On my modest V21 I use goal posts on the trailer to help guide visually(not strong enough really to hold the boat there) while the trailer is submerged. In addition, I have placed reflective tape - available in most auto parts stores - marking the level that the posts need to be in for most launch/recoverys which is visible in my mirrors as well as going completely around the posts for more visibility at night when trailering.
As for getting the tires wet, the real problem (for some )is the exhaust under the water perhaps causing a back pressure and forcing the engine to shut down. I've never had anything like that happen to me, but until recently I towed with a full sized ford V8 with nearly 300 horses. My trailer then and now is so short that I had, under certain water level/ramp angle conditions had water come into the drivers door when opening - even on the big Van.
As for getting the tires wet, the real problem (for some )is the exhaust under the water perhaps causing a back pressure and forcing the engine to shut down. I've never had anything like that happen to me, but until recently I towed with a full sized ford V8 with nearly 300 horses. My trailer then and now is so short that I had, under certain water level/ramp angle conditions had water come into the drivers door when opening - even on the big Van.
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