Launched yesterday. Few questions.

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groundhogyh

.
May 30, 2006
1,075
if running on one cylinder..- motor would sound obviously funny.- feel for heat on each cylinder from cold start. im thinking one side will get initially much hotter.Sent from my iPhone
 
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groundhogyh

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May 30, 2006
1,075
i have a beta but havent touched it.. but on my md6a i have removed injectors and taken them to a truck service station for cleaning. Sent from my iPhone
 
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bundchen1263

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Sep 5, 2016
89
The stuff i have is made for diesel engines available from autozone. I don't do anything outside of following the direction written on the can. Thanks for the warning, last thing i need is deeper problem.
 
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bundchen1263

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Sep 5, 2016
89
Engine is 2 cylinder i know that much but i am still not familiar with the layout, Another problem is the lack of instruction similar to haynes manual for cars , if such source would be available i probably would be more comfortable. i am ok with some wrenching but still have lot to learn i can pull the injectors but probably let a kubota dealer check them. Never performed a compression test before on any vehicle neither have the tool.
 
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groundhogyh

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May 30, 2006
1,075
you say the engine is new, but has sat for a long time?I think there is no possible reason to think about compression. Think dirt and clogs and barnacles.Maybe think of clogged air supply. Happy at idle, but when asked for power, and trys to breathe deep, it cant. Same concepts for fuel. in diesel there is only air and fuelSent from my iPhone
 
9

9558345ad3d32553d67b49254fbbb61d

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Nov 19, 2013
27
From the fact that the engine stops when loosening one HP line nut but not the other, it sound to me that your engine is running on one cylinder only. Listen to other diesels, you should be able to hear the difference between a single cylinder engine and a twin. You should also be able to hear the difference between a twin and a twin running on one cylinder only.It is probably an injector problem in which case leave it to a diesel mechanic who will have the requisite equipment, but you could carry out a test or two_OK poor man's compression test: crank the engine over BY HAND slowly. You will feel the compression on each stroke, and they should feel sensibly the same.Next, check the valve clearances. Remove the rocker cover and feel the rocker movement. The rocker is the bit that pushes the valve down. one pair should be loose and the other pair will probably be tight. Turn the engine over by hand but one turn only, the other pairs should be tight and and loose respectively. The second loose pair should be about the same as the first pair. The movement when loose shouldn't be much, no more than about 0.010" or 0.4mm or so (i.e. the thickness of a fingernail.) If there is much more movement, perhaps 2-3mm then check to see if the adjusting nut is loose. Read the handbook on setting the valve clearances.Good luckGeoff#################################################Geoff Blake, G8GNZ JO01fq: Chelmsford, Essex, UKgeoff@... or melecerties@...Using Linux: Ubuntu 14.04 on Intel or Debian on UltraSparc and Apple OS X El Capitan on my Macbook Pro. Avoiding Micro$oft like the plague.#################################################
 
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bundchen1263

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Sep 5, 2016
89
 Yes, i would say no more than 15 hours or so. After the installation, owner moves to not so sailing friendly area, aging, along with some injuries, boat sits 3 years and it sat another year while i have got her ready. Looking back, i probably should have done research and start the engine according to the procedures that must be followed for engines which hadn't been started for long time.  That 1200 RPM i ve somehow gained supports your theory. It is very possible that i have a glitch, either fuel related or air restriction etc.  What i don't get it is that how comes i see 2200 RPM and decent power output in forward, but in reverse still extremely low power? How can we explain that? As i stated in my earlier message, during my last trial run, something sounded like popped open and rpm climbed to 2200 from 900, producing ok speed and power. I am thinking that dead cylinder came alive. i hope to get out today and do some more sea trials but wife passed me the honey do list. We shall see. 
 
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bundchen1263

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Sep 5, 2016
89
 Is having a clean, brand new air filter guarantees that air supply for the engine is ok, or is there anything else to be checked? There is an elbow coming from the heat exchanger, which attaches to a exhaust hose than to the exhaust muffler. Another hose from that muffler discharge the water outboard, visibly plenty of water comes out. Would that be necessary to disconnect this parts and see if there is no debris along the way? Is it something that may effect the power output?
 
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pelagicasd

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Jan 28, 2001
694
By all means check it out. Lyric had a clogged elbow and a sooty transom. We were able to dissolve the crap out with muriatic acid. Don't use muriatic acid if you have an aluminum elbow as it will also dissolve aluminum! We had a significant increase in
power and a clean transom afterwards. Lyric has a Yanmar 2GM20. Have you tried swapping the injectors? Taking the first one out and putting it in the number 2 cylinder and putting the number 2 in the first cylinder.
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Subject: Re: [AlbinVega] Re: Launched yesterday. Few questions.


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Is having a clean, brand new air filter guarantees that air supply for the engine is ok, or is there anything else to be checked?
There is an elbow coming from the heat exchanger, which attaches to a exhaust hose than to the exhaust muffler. Another hose from that muffler discharge the water outboard, visibly plenty of water comes out. Would that be necessary to disconnect this
parts and see if there is no debris along the way? Is it something that may effect the power output?
 
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bundchen1263

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Sep 5, 2016
89
Hi, i have posted this update also on facebook group related to my long time attempts to fix beta bz482 engine. So here is the current situation. After determining that my beta bz482 was running on a single cylinder, i have replaced the injectors and took apart the injection pump, cleaned and put it back together. The injectors didn't made much difference but after putting the pump back where it belongs, i got all the power and the engine is very responsive now. After installing the pump, i 've noticed that the pump outlet serving fuel to the number 2 cylinder(the one closer to the intake manifold) putting out very precisely fuel in a great harmony, while number 1 nozzle(the nozzle closer to the belt) sort of squirts out some fuel. Again, if i crack open the number 2 fuel line at the injector, the engine stops running, while doing the same thing at injector 1 only causes the engines rpm to drop significantly, almost like its going stop running but still manages to chug along. Under normal conditions, should we expect the same fuel output from both nozzles at the injection pump? Even though the engine seems to be running fine, is it still possible that there is an uneven combustion between the 2 cylinders inside the engine? My last question is that is it normal for this engines to run hot? The engine dissipates lots of heat and overall its very hot to touch. Raw water system works good, dischages water good and parts related to raw water intake such as hoses, impeller housing etc feels cold. The engine block in general, most notably the thermostat housing, oil sump feels extra hot to touch. Should i not worry unless engine overheat warning buzzer comes on? it was coming on before while running on single cylinder so i am sure its working. I am adding some links for the videos i recorded that shows the pump in action. Thanks for your help in advance.
 
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btfag0s

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Sep 13, 2002
203
re. the hot engine, it sounds like a stuck or restricted thermostat: - have you checked the thermostat to ensure that it's not salted up? - have you tested the thermostat in a bowl of hot water? - have you tried running the engine without the thermostat to see if that improves the temperature?re. the fuel supply, I'd suspect the second injector, however I don't know that engine.Alisdair
 
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tim_klynn

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Feb 12, 2008
337
Very nice videos!You probably know this, but mechanical injectors rely on a high pressure fuel pulse from the injector pump to overcome their internal spring pressure that keep the injector pintle closed until the high pressure pulse pops it open and the fuel sprays into the engine. These pulses are timed to inject fuel at the proper moment of the engine cycle.They are also designed to inject a precise amount of fuel. This video shows how older mechanical injectors work:
number 1 injection port on your injector pump seems to be producing a nice defined pulse of fuel in a reasonable amount.Your number 2 port on your injection pump is not producing a sharp high pressure pulse like the number 1 injection pump port is producing. It appears to be slobbering out a low pressure ooze.As a result, the number 2 injector is probably either not opening at the correct time or not injecting the proper amount of fuel; which would explain why the engine dies when you disconnect the number 2 line, but not the number one line. The engine is pretty much running on the number 1 cylinder with the number 2 cylinder doing very little or nothing.As you give the engine more throttle, perhaps the number 2 injection pump port increases pressure enough to open the injector, but the timing is probably off.Injecting fuel at the incorrect time or too much fuel may cause the engine to run hot. A clogged air filter will do that as well.It looks to me like there is a problem with the injection pump, number 2 port in particular.On my other diesels, the thermostat opens about 192 degrees F. You can use an infrared temperature gun like this one: https://www.amazon.com/HDE-Temperature-Infrared-Thermometer-Laser/dp/B00QYX6F5Gto spot check temps on the engine, thermostat housing and head.If the temperature is much over 192 on the engine side of the tstat than the downstream side of the thermostat, the thermostat could be stuck closed.or not opening fully.With the thermostat stuck closed or not opening fully, the engine will run hot.I don't trust lights and buzzers. It seems like they go off after it is too late. I like a light/buzzer along with a temperature gauge so I can see exactly what is going on.If your cooling water is cool, your engine should stay around 192F.On my truck, if it gets above 215F, I slow down or downshift to reduce the load on the engine. 230F may be the max temp, but that depends on engine/radiator/cooing design and your coolant.I would not run an engine at 230F unless it was an emergency.-Tim From: "bundchen1263@... [AlbinVega]" AlbinVega@yahoogroups.com To: AlbinVega@yahoogroups.com Sent: Wednesday, July 26, 2017 12:09 PM Subject: [AlbinVega] Re: Launched yesterday. Few questions.




Hi, i have posted this update also on facebook group related to my long time attempts to fix beta bz482 engine. So here is the current situation. After determining that my beta bz482 was running on a single cylinder, i have replaced the injectors and took apart the injection pump, cleaned and put it back together. The injectors didn't made much difference but after putting the pump back where it belongs, i got all the power and the engine is very responsive now. After installing the pump, i 've noticed that the pump outlet serving fuel to the number 2 cylinder(the one closer to the intake manifold) putting out very precisely fuel in a great harmony, while number 1 nozzle(the nozzle closer to the belt) sort of squirts out some fuel. Again, if i crack open the number 2 fuel line at the injector, the engine stops running, while doing the same thing at injector 1 only causes the engines rpm to drop significantly, almost like its going stop running but still manages to chug along. Under normal conditions, should we expect the same fuel output from both nozzles at the injection pump? Even though the engine seems to be running fine, is it still possible that there is an uneven combustion between the 2 cylinders inside the engine? My last question is that is it normal for this engines to run hot? The engine dissipates lots of heat and overall its very hot to touch. Raw water system works good, dischages water good and parts related to raw water intake such as hoses, impeller housing etc feels cold. The engine block in general, most notably the thermostat housing, oil sump feels extra hot to touch. Should i not worry unless engine overheat warning buzzer comes on? it was coming on before while running on single cylinder so i am sure its working. I am adding some links for the videos i recorded that shows the pump in action. Thanks for your help in advance.






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#ygrps-yiv-1440318560
 
G

groundhogyh

.
May 30, 2006
1,075
just a note: i have read about people complaining of the older heat exchanger design on the betaSent from my iPhone
 
M

mphalv

.
Sep 29, 2001
195
Injector can still be bad. Suggest pulling both and take them to a diesel repair center that can test the injector spray pattern, spring release etc. These problems are not obvious. The cost is nominal.

If that is ok, than see if they can test the pump.

I agree with the idea to check the thermostat for operation.



Paul
 
B

bundchen1263

.
Sep 5, 2016
89
Hi, thanks for the responses and sorry couldn't get back earlier. Anyway, i removed the pump again and disassembled the non pumping side. It turned out that the nozzle was clogged and i was able to clear it out by thin wire and some blowing through. Now it seems to be working flawless. I am very impressed by the little betas performance. Its quiet and efficient. For the heat issue, i am not sure. I'll keep and eye and see if it was due to cylinder not firing orderly. If so, i am good. I will look into temp. gauge options to see if its necessary and how to install one. Yet, i have no idea.
 
B

bundchen1263

.
Sep 5, 2016
89
Hi. No I haven't done yet. Just manage to get the engine running normal. If overheating occurs, thermostat will be the first thing i ll check. Submerging and heating in hot water to see if it will open.
 
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