Last minute advice on thru hulls

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Mike 1

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Sep 19, 2010
62
Hunter h27 Sandusky,Ohio
I replaced my depth thru hull last week. I followed all the instructions letter for letter. I am still VERY nervous about launching her this week. The instructions say to launch, and watch close for 3 hours, which I will do. Does anyone have any tips or things to check that may be of help? Never hurts to ask!

See you out on the water!

Mike
 
Sep 29, 2008
36
Hunter 33 Toronto
If you have used the proper gasket or sealer, you'll be fine. At the very worst, if you have to replace the transponder while afloat you can easily remove it and replace it with a plug )usually supplied with the instrument) and you will take on a gallon of sea water or less, unless you are really clumsy. Even if it fails to seal properly, your automatic bilge piump will easily handle it. Just make sure your battery is chrged!
 
Jun 9, 2008
1,801
- -- -Bayfield
First of all, many depth transducers are not removable like a knot meter transducer where you have a dummy plug to to insert after you remove the inner core transducer. Most of them fit into the hull from the outside and are one unit with an epoxy core where the wire exits. So, if you have one of these types, the above source is not applicable. If you cut the hole so there is a tight fit for the transducer or through hull and you used a polysulfide caulk such as Boat Life's Life Calk, both between the mushroom flange beneath the hull and beneath the nut that tightens down from above (caulking liberally), then you should not have a problem. This also assumes you installed it where there is not a curve of the hull (you want a flat surface on the inside. If so, then you make up a wooden fairing block). You can loose sleep if your hole is too big so that the thru hull fits sloppily. Polysulfide caulk cures faster underwater too (with the absense of oxygen).
 

Mike 1

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Sep 19, 2010
62
Hunter h27 Sandusky,Ohio
I replaced a removable with the non-removable type in the same hole. I would say the hole was just slightly large but not sloppy. The instructions said 3M 4200 which is what I used. I filled the gap well, I put the recommended bead around the flange on the outside, and also the threads where the nut tightens down. tightened just past hand tight per instructions and 4200 came out slightly. I sure hope it holds!!! instinct would say to crank it down but I know that would either break it or force out the sealant! Guess we'll see Saturday!
 
Jun 5, 2010
1,123
Hunter 25 Burlington NJ
Last-minute launching advice

Before letting the Travel-Lift or crane picks up the boat, switch on the battery and make sure all the seacocks are OPEN and the bilge pump turned to AUTOMATIC. And take your stuffing-box wrench with you as you follow the lift to the launching slip.

As soon as possible (before the lift slings come off) get aboard and examine everything. Leave nothing to guesswork-- doubt everything. Work the seacocks back and forth, pump water down the sinks, flush the toilet, start the engine, etc. Knowing > assuming.

I have seen it happen enough times that one 'forgotten' fitting or adjustment is the cause of great alarm the moment the Travel-Lift backs out of range. If it's going to leak, give yourself at least a fighting chance to find the cause and fix it!
 
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