She is a 1976 22' Catalina. What should I do to the teak on exterior? What is easiest for a girl who uses monthly at best
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This is a classic question
Julie I recommend doing an Archive Search on the words Cetol and Varnish. There have been a great many discussions of the "proper" way to handle teak on boats. Just go up to the top of the page and click on Archive and fill in the blank box.
Julie I recommend doing an Archive Search on the words Cetol and Varnish. There have been a great many discussions of the "proper" way to handle teak on boats. Just go up to the top of the page and click on Archive and fill in the blank box.
Easy!!!
The best and easiest product for teak I have used and will continue to use is called Teak Guard. It is simple to use, lasts, and looks great!
The best and easiest product for teak I have used and will continue to use is called Teak Guard. It is simple to use, lasts, and looks great!
The easiest is to do nothing.
Oil is easy, varnish can be a lot of work, Then there is that awful Cetol stuf. Rebecca Wittman has a book called Brightwork: The Art of Finishing Wood. It is pretty good book that covers all the finishes. Teak has natural oils in it so the wood protects itself. You have to keep it clean. Then it turns silver. Some people like the silver look. Dan
Oil is easy, varnish can be a lot of work, Then there is that awful Cetol stuf. Rebecca Wittman has a book called Brightwork: The Art of Finishing Wood. It is pretty good book that covers all the finishes. Teak has natural oils in it so the wood protects itself. You have to keep it clean. Then it turns silver. Some people like the silver look. Dan
Easiest is..........
For the once a monther, Teak oil would be the easiest. I took all of my wood off and then refinished with Cetol. It has lasted well for me. Lance Jones C-22 #9713 Breab Tho'in!
For the once a monther, Teak oil would be the easiest. I took all of my wood off and then refinished with Cetol. It has lasted well for me. Lance Jones C-22 #9713 Breab Tho'in!
Let it go (Are you serious?)
Letting it go is in deed the easiest. However, what is happening is that the wood is drying out. As it gets drier, it shrinks and is on it's way to decay. May look uniform and be easy to care for; but, I wouldn't trust it for strength. It will eventually start to split too.
Letting it go is in deed the easiest. However, what is happening is that the wood is drying out. As it gets drier, it shrinks and is on it's way to decay. May look uniform and be easy to care for; but, I wouldn't trust it for strength. It will eventually start to split too.
lowell is right
use the teak guard and your teak will look great. It is so easy to use that it is a joke. Look it up on the web, and get all the info you need. You have notheing to loose but your gray!!
use the teak guard and your teak will look great. It is so easy to use that it is a joke. Look it up on the web, and get all the info you need. You have notheing to loose but your gray!!
Replace it
In my opinion the Teak looks best as a finished wood but as has been mentioned, it takes time and regular maintenance to keep it that way. One other alternative is to replace it with the stuff that Catalina is using for the newer boats. The CD site sells white plastic parts for replacing just about all of the teak exterior boards. This stuff is white, UV stabilized, marine grade polymer and probably needs no maintenance for years. It isn't wood but it will do the job just as well. The wood interior boards should last without much maintenance as long as they are kept dry. The bulkhead boards up by the V berth really need to be kept dry or it compromises a fairly serious safety issue with the shrouds and mast.
In my opinion the Teak looks best as a finished wood but as has been mentioned, it takes time and regular maintenance to keep it that way. One other alternative is to replace it with the stuff that Catalina is using for the newer boats. The CD site sells white plastic parts for replacing just about all of the teak exterior boards. This stuff is white, UV stabilized, marine grade polymer and probably needs no maintenance for years. It isn't wood but it will do the job just as well. The wood interior boards should last without much maintenance as long as they are kept dry. The bulkhead boards up by the V berth really need to be kept dry or it compromises a fairly serious safety issue with the shrouds and mast.
Yes I'm serious
Treating teak does not have anything to do with its strength. Teak lasts many decades untreated. The whole teak thing is way over-rated. Do you want to sail or be a slave to your teak? If you plan to sail once a month then spending any time at all on your teak is a total waste. Leave it alone. It is fine.
Treating teak does not have anything to do with its strength. Teak lasts many decades untreated. The whole teak thing is way over-rated. Do you want to sail or be a slave to your teak? If you plan to sail once a month then spending any time at all on your teak is a total waste. Leave it alone. It is fine.
So easy its's ....
Julie,I agree with Lowell. It's so easy it's silly. Teak Guard is the best and easiest product I've found.This past summer I took possesion of a 72 Cat 22, with some seriously weathered teak.After following the directions, my teak was like new.
Julie,I agree with Lowell. It's so easy it's silly. Teak Guard is the best and easiest product I've found.This past summer I took possesion of a 72 Cat 22, with some seriously weathered teak.After following the directions, my teak was like new.
"Bristol" 2 part epoxy is a 5 year min. finish.
When we bought our IP 38 in 2001 it had a 2 part epoxy finish that had been applied 2 years previous. We finish the rest of the exterior teak with this product and set sail for the Caribbean. The finish was still in excellent condition when we sold the boat in late 2004. I then used it on our 80 C22 and it has been flawless after 2 years of hard sailing. The product is spendy at about $80 a quart but that will do about 4 or more C22's. It retains the standard teak color rather than the yellowing of cetol. Well worth the investment and very easy to install. Ray.
When we bought our IP 38 in 2001 it had a 2 part epoxy finish that had been applied 2 years previous. We finish the rest of the exterior teak with this product and set sail for the Caribbean. The finish was still in excellent condition when we sold the boat in late 2004. I then used it on our 80 C22 and it has been flawless after 2 years of hard sailing. The product is spendy at about $80 a quart but that will do about 4 or more C22's. It retains the standard teak color rather than the yellowing of cetol. Well worth the investment and very easy to install. Ray.
Cover it
Julie, If you varnish the teak (I do), cover the cabin top and hatch boards when you are not sailing. For most people, this means your teak's finish is protected 99+% of the time. Even an inexpensive blue tarp will do the trick. Plus, if you have even the smallest rain leak thru the cabin top, hatch, or hatch boards (50 mph winds WILL drive lots of water thru the hatch board slots), that problem is solved, too. Eric
Julie, If you varnish the teak (I do), cover the cabin top and hatch boards when you are not sailing. For most people, this means your teak's finish is protected 99+% of the time. Even an inexpensive blue tarp will do the trick. Plus, if you have even the smallest rain leak thru the cabin top, hatch, or hatch boards (50 mph winds WILL drive lots of water thru the hatch board slots), that problem is solved, too. Eric
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