Can someone tell me what and where to get to get my frozen kill switch going. I've been just yanking the cable since I got this boat. Thanks, Steve
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Bill Boyke
I'll be trying to repair inside of a month.
I have a YSE12 and supposedly I can get the cable at the marine diesel shop near the club. I will find out later this month, early next. My engine is currently controlled in such a way that if I thottle back far enough it shuts down, but I want it right.
I have a YSE12 and supposedly I can get the cable at the marine diesel shop near the club. I will find out later this month, early next. My engine is currently controlled in such a way that if I thottle back far enough it shuts down, but I want it right.
Mounted down below
Steve: I have a '85 H'31. Our cable became very difficult to move several years ago. We just went to a boat shop and got a Morse cable from a local boat shop. Instead of running it back into the helm station we mounted it down below on top of the engine compartment. This made installation much easier and is a much shorter cable too. This also give us a small amount of security. When we are in any port that we are not sure about, we just leave the kill switch pulled out so no one can start the engine. Of course if anyone decides to break in they would be able to figure it out very quick.
Steve: I have a '85 H'31. Our cable became very difficult to move several years ago. We just went to a boat shop and got a Morse cable from a local boat shop. Instead of running it back into the helm station we mounted it down below on top of the engine compartment. This made installation much easier and is a much shorter cable too. This also give us a small amount of security. When we are in any port that we are not sure about, we just leave the kill switch pulled out so no one can start the engine. Of course if anyone decides to break in they would be able to figure it out very quick.
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Don
Steve, why don't you write a book on the H31?
Putting the kill switch inside is a good idea. They do it on the new ones, I never thought of doing it to my 84 31'. Geez, you have so many good ideas. I'd like to see a regular news letter or book on your ideas for this boat.
Putting the kill switch inside is a good idea. They do it on the new ones, I never thought of doing it to my 84 31'. Geez, you have so many good ideas. I'd like to see a regular news letter or book on your ideas for this boat.
Thanks Don but
Don: Hey Don, thanks for the compliment but I don't have time. Between work, HOW and boating when would I find time? Actually this is what HOW is all about. It is the book of HOW-to. The kill switch thing was orginally because I was too lazy to try to route the thing back to the panel. Just turned into a good idea.
Don: Hey Don, thanks for the compliment but I don't have time. Between work, HOW and boating when would I find time? Actually this is what HOW is all about. It is the book of HOW-to. The kill switch thing was orginally because I was too lazy to try to route the thing back to the panel. Just turned into a good idea.
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Tim Op't Holt
same problem
I had the same problem last year that resulted in cracking the control panel. Luckily, there is a Yanmar dealer in Mobile and I was able to get a new panel and kill switch/cable. I mounted mine as it was from the factory. I can see having it in the cabin. However, I like the convienience of having the switch within reach from the helm. The fun part was replacing all the other controls on the panel, one wire at a time!, but it went fine. When removing and replacing the control panel, be sure to replace the gasket as well.
I had the same problem last year that resulted in cracking the control panel. Luckily, there is a Yanmar dealer in Mobile and I was able to get a new panel and kill switch/cable. I mounted mine as it was from the factory. I can see having it in the cabin. However, I like the convienience of having the switch within reach from the helm. The fun part was replacing all the other controls on the panel, one wire at a time!, but it went fine. When removing and replacing the control panel, be sure to replace the gasket as well.
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mark schaefer
pain but
i replaced mine years ago but it finally it froze too...i pulled the wire out of the housing shoved in plenty of grease and threaded it back in...it took some effort to push the cable through the corrosion but it worked and is now smooth as silk...replacing is a lot easier
i replaced mine years ago but it finally it froze too...i pulled the wire out of the housing shoved in plenty of grease and threaded it back in...it took some effort to push the cable through the corrosion but it worked and is now smooth as silk...replacing is a lot easier
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Doug
Lubrication
Some of the papers I got with my 1989 Hunter included a Mack Boring memo on the lubrication of the cable. The cable is supposed to be removed from its housing and lubed as regular maintenance. The papers are on the boat but I can copy them and get them to you if you are interested. -Doug
Some of the papers I got with my 1989 Hunter included a Mack Boring memo on the lubrication of the cable. The cable is supposed to be removed from its housing and lubed as regular maintenance. The papers are on the boat but I can copy them and get them to you if you are interested. -Doug
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Ken Reed
Easy replacement
I had a frozen engine kill too on the 1GM on my 81 H27. Pulled, lubed, swore...all to no avail. Finally bought a replacement switch/cable (it is specced per the engine as a spare part...check your Yanmar Dlr or Mack Boring) and replaced the old one in about 10 minutes. Can't remember what it cost, but it sure saved a lot of headaches.
I had a frozen engine kill too on the 1GM on my 81 H27. Pulled, lubed, swore...all to no avail. Finally bought a replacement switch/cable (it is specced per the engine as a spare part...check your Yanmar Dlr or Mack Boring) and replaced the old one in about 10 minutes. Can't remember what it cost, but it sure saved a lot of headaches.
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