Kenyon Instruments

[Jfelkins]

Does any one have any info on Kenyon Knot-o-meters or depth gauges. I think both are thru hull transducers (can see little "rings" protruding from hull where I think the transducers are mounted). Neither instruments work and I'd love to fix/rebuild them. Thanks for ANY info.

Also, if you were going to perform "surgery" on one of these how would you go about it? Thanks!!

 

[Scott T-Bird]

Good luck with that! I don't think Kenyon has made instuments for years and it may even be difficult to find parts. I used to have a functional wind transducer for the remaining Kenyon instrument I replaced on my boat. The speed transducer would be a paddlewheel, I suppose and it would not be surpising if it has long since disintegrated if you don't see the paddlewheels when you pull the boat out of the water. The depth transducer should look more or less like a glass surface. Many people simply paint over it though I never would. Have you checked to see if you actually have transducers in the thru hull and not just plugs? Does the wiring still connect to the instrument and is the wiring look like it is in decent shape or is it all corroded? Do the instuments do anything when you turn them on?

I got replacements for Datamarine instruments by looking up DMI on-line. They are helpful and may have compatable parts if you know what you need.

 

[Joe]

Kenyon's been out of business for a long time. Do a google search and an SBO archive search for "Kenyon Instruments" and you'll find some minor things... I found this PDF manual for the windspeed indicator and knotmeter, for example.

http://home.comcast.net/~wb3awj/SBO/Kenyon_Marine_Wind_Speed_Insturments_instructions.pdf


The issues with old, out of production instruments almost always revolves around transducers and their related parts. I've never seen, nor heard of, compatible transducers between different MODELS....much less between manufacturers So.. the first thing you do is try to find the transducers for your instruments.... try following the wires from the back of the displays. If you find them , try putting some power to the units, there are terminals on the back of the display... and go from there using the manual for reference. If there are no tranducers you have a worthess, though attractive, display that was left there because the previous owner didn't want to patch a hole in his bulkhead.

If you need the data....... go buy a gps/fishfinder combo. Use the gps for speed and the fishfinder for depth... Or you could buy a new instrument package...

 

[Jfelkins]

Thanks for this. I was worried this is what I'd find.

 

[FourPoints]

also try ebay and craigs list, or a marine scrap yard, you may be able to find a replacement transducer somewhere.

If you end up replacing them, being that the old units appear square you may be able to do a direct fit replacment to avoid cutting or drilling any new holes with either a raymarine or the new Garmin GMI 10 units that you can change on the fly to display the output of any instrument you have attached to the NEMA (0183 or 2000) network. so you can have depth one minute, and change to wind speed / direction the next.

 

[Jfelkins]

Great Idea

Thanks, I'll check there also. We don't have much in Memphis as far as marine goes but I'll check with Rooke Sails.

 

[Ian McGain]

Save yourself the time and trouble.
When you come out of the water rip out the Kenyon and replace with something current.
send me an e mail to IanMcGain@verizon.net if youwish my Kenyon PDF's
Good luck
Ian
s/v Meant to Be

 

[rardiH36]

I’m seeing that this thread has mainly focused on the transducers. But how are your units not working? Are the displays totally dead, or are they just not displaying depth and speed information?

I believe a couple of weeks ago with a query about a complete rewiring of your boat, you posted some pictures showing considerably corroded everything. Re your instruments, it’s very possible that corrosion has caused the failures, but the actual electronic components themselves are still in working order. Just maybe the units can still be made to function DIY ... at zero cost and with no risk since the general advice from the responders is that finding professional repair/replacement parts is difficult/unlikely. Here are some things that you can try:

- Disconnect the transducer wires at any fittings/connectors. Use the edge of knife, sandpaper, etc. to scrape off any corrosion seen at the male/female connection points. Check that the wires from the transducers are not broken/cut/chafed.

- Disconnect the 12V wires, do the same as above.

- Can you remove covers off the display units to expose the innards? If so, after first taking careful note of orientation and how everything is connected (write it down and draw diagrams), pull off any connecting plugs inside that route wires to/from/around betwen the circuit board(s), including any multi-wire plugs actually mounted on the circuit board. Check that the pins and female sides are clean.

- If you are comfortable with a small soldering iron with a very small point, touch it to every solder joint on the circuit board to re-melt the solder. You might need to add a bit of new solder here-and-there if gaps open up in the old solder. Take care not to bridge solder between the joints. Even if your eyesight is good, don a pair of reading glasses as you are doing this so you can see the circuit board very close and clear. I did this re-solder thing on my old DataMarine knot meter three years ago which was functioning intermittently. It's been working fine ever since. Also many years ago, I was able to make good several electronic malfunctions on my XJ-6 Jaguar.

- Old LCD displays can lose connectivity with the rest of the electronics. On my Data Marine units, by removing some screws, the rectangle piece of glass in which the numerals are generated can be removed. Clean the interface with some alcohol and put back together. Be very careful with this step that you put back the glass into its groove exactly as it was.

Chances of the above yielding a positive result are probably slim. But the process has worked for me quite a few times on lots of things. And if you succeed, the units will probably work for many more years and the sense of accomplishment is high.

 

[rardiH36]

Somethings to add to my just posted:

- Of course check that 12V is getting to the units

- For anything done inside, be absolutely sure to disconnect the 12V first. If its on, a slip of the soldering iron or any other metal tool can short between two points and fry semi-conductors like diodes and transistors. There would be no recovering if this happens.

 

[Jfelkins]

Thanks! This is exactly the kind of info I was looking for. I'll be working on the boat next weekend. I will be disposing of the current electrical system and starting over. I'm not sure but i think the speedo transducer is out of it's place and a dummy plug is in it's hole. I'll check this and proceed as advised.