keel stub wood removal

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J

John

Hi guys I want to remove my keelstub wood Ive talked to the guys at catalina they faxed me there fix. And they want me to cut the glass allaround then pell it off. then chisel out all the wood. Then glass in three layers of mat with three layers of roveing sounds easy enough .but when I cut out all the wood there was filler on the bottom It was still sound so I was going to leave it. The wood under the moter was in a bad spot to get at and for now I left some in there becouse I could not get my hand in there and I dont now how far backI can cut without holeing the out side. I drilled the wood that was left and left dryers in the bilge to try to suck the water out. The next problem is that the wood and glass that was removed is about 1 3/4" and the glass that they have me puting back is thin maybe 3/8 " ,with out the full thickness 1 3/4 It look like the washers and the bolts cant be run down all the way becouse they hit the side of the bilge ,and when I add the new glass there will be less room for the bolts.I think I need to build up the bottom with some thing so the bolts can be in the original position .I cant bring my self to use wood .How about star board I think it would take the compression and It should be good in water if It ever got wet again.I guess I could lay up glass and epoxy with filler but that is way more mixing then I want to do.Maybe a ss plate ? If anty body was wondering my PO drilled a bunch of holes in the bilge bottom for pumps and switches and all kinds of junk and nevere sealed them or even put a screw in the holes.He just mounted every thing over the holes.The wood was not rotten but It was soft and the bolts were starting to sink in and crush the glass and they where leaking enough to keep them wet..My hull # is 5112 1988 C30TR and catalina stoped putting wood in the bilge on 5135 I think that I could have gone afew more years with out doing the fix but I wanted to do the bottom next year and this seemed like the place to start.Can anty one heelp me John
 
J

jr

no starboard!!

please do not use starboard!!! It cracks very easily under pressure. the seats i made out if it in my whaler all cracked with in the first few weeks of using it. it cracked right around the screws from where it was attached to the hull.
 
J

John

I guess star board is out

Thanks JR anty body have anty good Ideas John
 
J

John

I guess star board is out

Thanks JR anty body have anty good Ideas John
 
J

John

I guess star board is out

Thanks JR anty body have anty good Ideas John
 
M

Mike

Synthetic Deck Wood

Perhaps you could use the synthetic plastic wood that is sold in the home building supply stores. It comes in 5/4 inch and 1 1/2 inch thicknesses. You could probably drill multiple holes in it to insure a beter bond befor glassing it in place.
 
Jun 3, 2004
80
- - Guilford, CT
Keel Stub Repair

John, The link below is what they sent me a few years ago as a fix. I'll assume it's the same one they sent you. I wouldn't want to cut corners to save time or money with this project. I would build it up as they say to, especially in #6, "lapping up onto keel stub sides". Here's a link to compare Starboard to marine wood: http://www.kingplastic.com/Pdf/PhysPropKingStarLiteXL.pdf The only thing I would do is create a small sump for the bilge pump to sit in and make sure the rest of the bilge drains into it. This I think will help keep the bilge cleaner and drier. Good luck!
 
J

John

hay Richard

Well the TS with no rateing to compare dosent look good and the flexural modulus is way better in wood I dont think the plastic will do and the deck lumber is soft to. What do you think about the filler under the wood It feels sound but #4 on the instructions say remove wood down to the glass. They dont say antything about the filler . The reason I want to add thickness to the repair is becouse there is no space between the bolts and the glass sides to seat the bolts ,and the washers will have to be cut flat on one side.I read some where that some one used FG sheeting to build the bottom up but I cant think of anty body that uses FG sheeting.What do you think about makeing a new keel stub from a mold out of west epoxy and glass with filler and maybe old pieces of glass then glueing it in place of the wood and then going on with the fix as they have it on the sheet. The sump is a great Idea.I was thnking of doing something like that.I was going to put the cockpit hand pump in the low spot becouse my elect bilge pump leaves alot of water in the bilge and I cant get a inline check valve to work .Either the valve dose not open all the time or it leaks the water back into the the bilge and I start pumping the same water over and over. I dont think that I will get back to the boat untill spring becouse Its snowing and Im about 15 boats back in the yard. John
 
Jun 3, 2004
80
- - Guilford, CT
Yo John

I hear your problem about the bolts and washers. Why not go back to wood? A good piece of white oak would be easy to work with and would last at least as long as the previous wood! My bilge pump does the same thing, the check valve is way up by the handpump in the cockpit locker. I wind up spongin out the bilge into a bucket before I leave the boat after a weekend. Another thought: Make sure your ice box doesn't drain into the bilge. I've hooked mine up to the salt water sink pump(which I can't use here on L.I. sound)and then overboard thru the transome drain. I peeled my bottom last summer(until about the middle of Aug)Good luck!
 
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