Went down to get the boat ready for the spring and upon close inspection noticed a very slight crack or discoloration in the hull/keel joint. No real speration, only discoloration. So what is it? What do I need to do to fit it? The boat is only three years old is it covered? Thanks Russell Egge Allie Kat 376
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Probably Fixable by Yourself
If this is a condition that hasn't existed for a long time the fix can be fairly straight forward. If it's been a long time and you're a perfectionist then proably the keel may need to be pulled and the fiberglass dried out and for this it would be good to consult with 'experts' and short out the advise. If there is separation and no water in the bilge it is probably okay to just tighten the keel back up. Unfortunately, if there is a crack it is almost certain there is water in ghe bildge. If you're reasonably handy with tools this is probably fixable by yourself. 1. Call Hunter and find out what the torque is for the bolts. For my H-35 the large bolts require 400 ft-lbs and the smaller ones 275 ft-lbs. The torque is a function of the the "bolt" size (actually one tightens the nuts in this case and not the bolts). 2. Buy some sockets and cut them in half and weld a section in the middle so the socket can sit on the nut and still clear the bolts. My setup uses 3/4" drive. Get a 3/4" drive extention, say 3 inches long and cut it in half and weld a pipe extention to increase it to the length you need which is probably enough to clear the table or settee seats. Buy a breaker bar and get a pipe extention(s) for it too. Now your're ready to tighten things up. 3. Tighten the bolts, each one a little at a time until they're up to spec. Clean out the keel crack and an "build it back up". It will need to be dried out and heat lamps work good but don't place too close. The layers will probably include (based on memory) a filler, epoxy layer, maybe barrier coat, then finally bottom paint. A good consumer brochure such as for Interlux will probably show the details of the layers and the yard paint person is another resource if it's a DYI operation and if they're cooperative. Metal should be brought down to bright metal (either lead or iron) and primer coated as soon as possible and the paint directions will specify the maximum time for air exposure. Keep records of the chemicals used and pictures are handy. Avoid mixing brands to prevent complications. This is not everything you need to know but just a starter. Hope this helps somewhat.
If this is a condition that hasn't existed for a long time the fix can be fairly straight forward. If it's been a long time and you're a perfectionist then proably the keel may need to be pulled and the fiberglass dried out and for this it would be good to consult with 'experts' and short out the advise. If there is separation and no water in the bilge it is probably okay to just tighten the keel back up. Unfortunately, if there is a crack it is almost certain there is water in ghe bildge. If you're reasonably handy with tools this is probably fixable by yourself. 1. Call Hunter and find out what the torque is for the bolts. For my H-35 the large bolts require 400 ft-lbs and the smaller ones 275 ft-lbs. The torque is a function of the the "bolt" size (actually one tightens the nuts in this case and not the bolts). 2. Buy some sockets and cut them in half and weld a section in the middle so the socket can sit on the nut and still clear the bolts. My setup uses 3/4" drive. Get a 3/4" drive extention, say 3 inches long and cut it in half and weld a pipe extention to increase it to the length you need which is probably enough to clear the table or settee seats. Buy a breaker bar and get a pipe extention(s) for it too. Now your're ready to tighten things up. 3. Tighten the bolts, each one a little at a time until they're up to spec. Clean out the keel crack and an "build it back up". It will need to be dried out and heat lamps work good but don't place too close. The layers will probably include (based on memory) a filler, epoxy layer, maybe barrier coat, then finally bottom paint. A good consumer brochure such as for Interlux will probably show the details of the layers and the yard paint person is another resource if it's a DYI operation and if they're cooperative. Metal should be brought down to bright metal (either lead or iron) and primer coated as soon as possible and the paint directions will specify the maximum time for air exposure. Keep records of the chemicals used and pictures are handy. Avoid mixing brands to prevent complications. This is not everything you need to know but just a starter. Hope this helps somewhat.
Not big trouble
Had a similar crack on the lead edge between the lead keel and hull on the 97 340. Noticed yours was a 97 376. If you wander through a drydock, one will find a large percentage of boats having a similar crack. I cleaned crack, used filler, v-tarred, bottom painted and it hasn't returned in the past two years. Since 340 refrigerator and drive shaft packing drain to the bilge, mine has always had some moisture. I'll correct it this year, but there is no apparent seawater creeping into the bilge.
Had a similar crack on the lead edge between the lead keel and hull on the 97 340. Noticed yours was a 97 376. If you wander through a drydock, one will find a large percentage of boats having a similar crack. I cleaned crack, used filler, v-tarred, bottom painted and it hasn't returned in the past two years. Since 340 refrigerator and drive shaft packing drain to the bilge, mine has always had some moisture. I'll correct it this year, but there is no apparent seawater creeping into the bilge.
No problem
The keel will not fall off. I have seen what it takes to swap keels on the H-34. The bolts are probably not even necessary, the 5200 adhesive holds so tightly. Leaking keel bolts are rare (but it does happen). Filling the crack with Epoxy and painting over it will suffice. The crack will reappear, simply fill and refair it.
The keel will not fall off. I have seen what it takes to swap keels on the H-34. The bolts are probably not even necessary, the 5200 adhesive holds so tightly. Leaking keel bolts are rare (but it does happen). Filling the crack with Epoxy and painting over it will suffice. The crack will reappear, simply fill and refair it.
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