As will be evident in my post, I am brand new to sailing. I recently bought a 76 Venture 21, which I really love and starting to get comfortable with. I have noticed that when I am in a chop the centerboard knocks. I have the pin in so it seems that it must be side to side movement causing the knocking. I have been leaving the winch cable slack; should there be tension on the cable when sailing and will this likely alleviate the knock? I am concenred about damging something. Also, the winch has a galvinized cable, and I am in salt water. Should this be replaced with a stainless cable. Thanks in advance for any advice, Paul
Keel knocking
- Thread starter pmeyers
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Tighten a couple of turns.
I tighten mine routinely regardless of conditions by a couple of turns. This takes any slack out and also helps minimize the cable singing. Let it all the way out, take up slack and take another two turns.
I tighten mine routinely regardless of conditions by a couple of turns. This takes any slack out and also helps minimize the cable singing. Let it all the way out, take up slack and take another two turns.
centerboard noise
As you surmised, any sound is not a good thing. The looseness may be from the hole in the centerboard through which the pivot pin passes is no longer round and small enough to prevent lateral movement. In the beginning it's not dangerous, but as the wear progresses, the misalignment could affect your ability to raise it centerboard back into it's slot, affect sailing performance, and eventually perhaps create more wear on the cable. If it's not the hole in the board, but the pin itself that is worn or corroded enough to allow severe knocking, then you would be in danger of losing the centerboard entirely, or have it left hanging by the cable and unable to trailer your boat again from the water. Galvanized and stainless cable both should be visualy checked every few months when in salt water or used frequently in salt water. The galvanized with wear and rust, the clamps or swages on the stainless will corrode as they are not stainless. All wire should be inspected once per year, salt or fresh water, for broken strands. One tip for helping any cable last longer is to grease it well with lanolin, or synthetic silicone or teflon grease designed for high temperatures. Winch or trailer hitch white grease could work, I think lanolin is best. It reduces corrosion and wear on the strands. I kept tension on the cable at all times to prevent snafus on the reel of the winch, and to use the resulting humming sound at speed to help me gauge changes in speed while sail trimming or crew shifting.
As you surmised, any sound is not a good thing. The looseness may be from the hole in the centerboard through which the pivot pin passes is no longer round and small enough to prevent lateral movement. In the beginning it's not dangerous, but as the wear progresses, the misalignment could affect your ability to raise it centerboard back into it's slot, affect sailing performance, and eventually perhaps create more wear on the cable. If it's not the hole in the board, but the pin itself that is worn or corroded enough to allow severe knocking, then you would be in danger of losing the centerboard entirely, or have it left hanging by the cable and unable to trailer your boat again from the water. Galvanized and stainless cable both should be visualy checked every few months when in salt water or used frequently in salt water. The galvanized with wear and rust, the clamps or swages on the stainless will corrode as they are not stainless. All wire should be inspected once per year, salt or fresh water, for broken strands. One tip for helping any cable last longer is to grease it well with lanolin, or synthetic silicone or teflon grease designed for high temperatures. Winch or trailer hitch white grease could work, I think lanolin is best. It reduces corrosion and wear on the strands. I kept tension on the cable at all times to prevent snafus on the reel of the winch, and to use the resulting humming sound at speed to help me gauge changes in speed while sail trimming or crew shifting.
How to remove pin?
Is it possible to inspect the pin and the hole while on the trailer? Is there enough play/room if I put a jack under the front/top of the centerboard, remove the pin and lower the top end of the centerboard? Diving is not an option, water temp too cold. I assume that if the hole is oval then I would need to drill it out and put a sleeve in with a larger bolt? Otherwise all I need to do is replace the bolt. I will also try to put some tension on the cable while sailing to see if it helps. Thanks for your help, Paul
Is it possible to inspect the pin and the hole while on the trailer? Is there enough play/room if I put a jack under the front/top of the centerboard, remove the pin and lower the top end of the centerboard? Diving is not an option, water temp too cold. I assume that if the hole is oval then I would need to drill it out and put a sleeve in with a larger bolt? Otherwise all I need to do is replace the bolt. I will also try to put some tension on the cable while sailing to see if it helps. Thanks for your help, Paul
On the trailer is the way to go
According to the Manual: "On the MacGregor 21, the keel cable passes behind a wear bolt directly below the cockpit drain. On the other boats, the cable passes through a stainless tube containing a wear surface. If the cable, the wear bolt, or stainless tube show any noticeable wear or abrasion, replace the worn part. Be sure to re-assemble the new part or parts exactly as they were before being disassembled. If the boat is kept in the water, it is recommended that the keel pivot bolt be removed every 12 months [while the boat is on a trailer] and inspected for signs of wear. The holes in the kill and the inside of the keel trunk should be given a similar inspection. To gain access to the pivot hole, remove the keel pin and lower the head of the keel until the hole is exposed. Keep the retraction cable snug to prevent the keel from falling sideways on the trailer. The rubber washers on the keel pin bolt should also be inspected. Cover all washers with a liberal coat of a good quality bedding compound. Re-assembly of the keel pivot bolt should be as follows: Be very careful when working with the keel--it is very heavy and can cause injury if it falls on you. {There is a picture of the keeel assembly here} When the keel pivot bolt is re-installed, make sure that it passes though the hole in the keel." See link below for entire manual. Happy sails *_/), MArk
According to the Manual: "On the MacGregor 21, the keel cable passes behind a wear bolt directly below the cockpit drain. On the other boats, the cable passes through a stainless tube containing a wear surface. If the cable, the wear bolt, or stainless tube show any noticeable wear or abrasion, replace the worn part. Be sure to re-assemble the new part or parts exactly as they were before being disassembled. If the boat is kept in the water, it is recommended that the keel pivot bolt be removed every 12 months [while the boat is on a trailer] and inspected for signs of wear. The holes in the kill and the inside of the keel trunk should be given a similar inspection. To gain access to the pivot hole, remove the keel pin and lower the head of the keel until the hole is exposed. Keep the retraction cable snug to prevent the keel from falling sideways on the trailer. The rubber washers on the keel pin bolt should also be inspected. Cover all washers with a liberal coat of a good quality bedding compound. Re-assembly of the keel pivot bolt should be as follows: Be very careful when working with the keel--it is very heavy and can cause injury if it falls on you. {There is a picture of the keeel assembly here} When the keel pivot bolt is re-installed, make sure that it passes though the hole in the keel." See link below for entire manual. Happy sails *_/), MArk
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