I have tried various approaches to sealing the keel joint without much success. I have used 5200, epoxy filler, and epoxy/fiberglass and still the joint flexing causes cracks. Has anyone come up with a solution to this problem? By the way I have checked the keel bolts and they are tight.
Keel Joint on 1986 Hunter 31:{
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Sikoflex or Flinko compound
I have owned a cheoy lee clipper for 25 years before the Hunter 25 I have now. The teak decks had to have a flexable compound to seal them. I believe the brand name is skiloflex. If you check with a Marine store they will reconize the brand name. Within the brand name are many sealants that are like 5200. They have one which is very flexable yets seals just as well as 5200. This worked for my decks as they needed a flexable compound. Not sure if it is for underwater sealing but worth checking it out. I always had a hairline crack where my keel bolted to the fiberglass. I always just west expoxyed it at each haul out.
I have owned a cheoy lee clipper for 25 years before the Hunter 25 I have now. The teak decks had to have a flexable compound to seal them. I believe the brand name is skiloflex. If you check with a Marine store they will reconize the brand name. Within the brand name are many sealants that are like 5200. They have one which is very flexable yets seals just as well as 5200. This worked for my decks as they needed a flexable compound. Not sure if it is for underwater sealing but worth checking it out. I always had a hairline crack where my keel bolted to the fiberglass. I always just west expoxyed it at each haul out.
Keel joint flex
Another approach, since you have tried the ones I know about, it to put iron schims of somekind, on opposing sides of the keel, then try a flexible waterproof beding material. If your keep bolts are tight, and the keel keeps making misincule movement, then something in the form of the keel/hull bottom bed, is not fitting snug. Short of taking the keel off and rebeding, is to support the joint to allow no movement, then bed it. Hope this helps. There appears to be a lot of" bandaid /back yard mechanic" thinking that goes with owning an older sailboat!
Another approach, since you have tried the ones I know about, it to put iron schims of somekind, on opposing sides of the keel, then try a flexible waterproof beding material. If your keep bolts are tight, and the keel keeps making misincule movement, then something in the form of the keel/hull bottom bed, is not fitting snug. Short of taking the keel off and rebeding, is to support the joint to allow no movement, then bed it. Hope this helps. There appears to be a lot of" bandaid /back yard mechanic" thinking that goes with owning an older sailboat!
You say the keel nuts are tight, but are they...
at the right torque setting for your boat? Maybe you need to separate the boat from the keel, clean up the joint, rebed and torque at the correct setting to eliminate the flexing. Terry
at the right torque setting for your boat? Maybe you need to separate the boat from the keel, clean up the joint, rebed and torque at the correct setting to eliminate the flexing. Terry
Keel Attachment
Taking the keel off an h34/h31 is a nightmare. The yard I'm in had to take one off a charter boat once and said they would never do that job again for anyone. Personally I'd stick with the 5200. The boat will flex and the cast iron won't. Epoxy and epoxy fillers are too brittle for this task
Taking the keel off an h34/h31 is a nightmare. The yard I'm in had to take one off a charter boat once and said they would never do that job again for anyone. Personally I'd stick with the 5200. The boat will flex and the cast iron won't. Epoxy and epoxy fillers are too brittle for this task
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